Posted 06 October 2008 - 04:21 PM
Thanks in advance.
Posted 06 October 2008 - 07:19 PM
Hope this helps some.
Posted 07 October 2008 - 02:15 AM
You'll definitely get a smear (or fogging) and you'll have a heck of time getting rid of it because of the solvents in liquid or tube glue which is deadly to clear styrene!
As Jairus said, 5 min epoxy is great for windows..........some guys have used something called "Krystal Klear" which is a type of white glue. This is good stuff for flat windows, but if their of the compound curve type of the late '50's early '60's, you'll want something stronger.
There is another type of white glue that some guys use which is stronger................but I can't think of the name of it at the moment.............
I'm pretty messy when it comes to putting in windows, but I go a step further and make my own windows using clear stencil sheet where it's practical. I use the 5 min epoxy.........but they come out like this when I get them in....................
After some cleanup with alcohol, they come out like this..............
More work yes, but I've got windows that won't pop out with stress, and the optical clarity of clear stencil sheet can't be beat!
Posted 07 October 2008 - 06:25 AM
Posted 07 October 2008 - 11:56 AM
Do you guys apply the glue on the inside of the window or out
Posted 07 October 2008 - 12:31 PM
If the glass fits the opening well and installs from the inside, you can paint some clear enamel around the edges of the glass opening with a small brush, drop the glass into place and let it dry. The enamel will act like a glue and hold the window. If the glass installs from the outside, you can paint the "channel" that the glass fits into the same way, position the glass and let the enamel dry. White glues (which dry clear) can also be used instead of clear enamel in these cases where the glass fits the opening well and doesn't need to be forced or pushed into place. Liquid styrene cement can also be used, by putting the glass into place and flowing a small amount along the edges, letting capillary action drew the glue into the seam between body and glass... but if you get any liquid cement on the surface of the window you won't be able to remove it without leaving a mark on the glass.
If the glass doesn't fit well (gaps around the edges, for instance), the best way is to tape the glass tightly into place from both the inside and outside, leaving some of the edges exposed around the perimeter of the glass. If the glass installs from the inside, apply a small dab of clear 5-minute epoxy to those untaped spots on the inside of the body, let dry and remove the tape. The epoxy should be enough to hold the glass into position tightly. If the glass installs from the outside, carefully apply a tiny bit of epoxy to the corners of the channel where the glass fits into before taping the glass into place. You have to be careful to keep the glue away from the edge, where it can squeeze out and show. As with all aspects of modeling, practice is the key.
Keep in mind that tube glue and superglues (CA glue) are generally not the choice to install glass. Tube glue will mar the surface of the glass and CA glue will fog the surface if you use too much of it.