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Using Acrylic Fingernail filler for bodywork


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Poll: Was this helpful (41 member(s) have cast votes)

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  1. Will you try this technique? (41 votes [100.00%] - View)

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#41 Danno

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 09:21 PM

No problem Dan, I'm glad people are willing to try it. Now as far as Wally World, I'm not sure if this is the one or not, but there's a kit with the brand name of "Kiss" I seem to remember seeing there at one time. It's about a 4"x6" package in a clear blister pack. If you look around the area where the nail polishes and fake fingernails are, you'll stumble across it. It's a small amount, but it'll let you see if it's something you want to use or not. Good luck and let us know how it goes!



Thanks!!

;)

#42 Hoosierfarmboy

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Posted 30 January 2011 - 08:33 AM

Hey, Randy!

What is the WallyWorld product ... name ... series ... appearance of the package? I want to go check it out & WW is a lot closer than Sally. Besides, my wife gets suspicious when she asks where I've been and I tell her 'I spent some time at Sally's place today.'

Mike! Big shout out for this excellent tutorial and for opening up another new area of modeling exploration! Thanks!

:rolleyes:


Danno. The brand is KISS. On the nail glue bottle it is white cursive lettering on a red background. It is made by Kiss Products of Port Washington, NY. Might be able to Google it for good pix. If I remember well it was in a clear plastic bubble pack with cardboard liner. I recently moved my hobby area to another room and haven't unpacked all yet. It cost around $8.00 i think.

#43 Foxer

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Posted 02 February 2011 - 11:58 AM

I got the stuff and tried molding a few small parts. I had to buy the Beauty Secrets liquid as the one pictured on the first page wasn't available. I did add some green dye but it didn't seem to do much . the parts came out as white as the powder. White is good, but I did add more coloring for the next time. The molds I had squish cast using RTV Silicon casting putty. The nails material did not stick to it at all .. nice. I did have a couple plastic stops on the GMC logo mold which it did stick to. Have to use some Vaseline next time. The parts are difficult to make out but will paint to see how they are. There are some door handles and a GMC logo off a front grill. So far they look good, but paint will tell how good the finish is.

I did this using a brush same as the body filler tutorial here and pushed the material into the molds with a flat spatula.

Posted Image

Edited by Foxer, 02 February 2011 - 02:08 PM.


#44 Custom Mike

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Posted 02 February 2011 - 04:24 PM

Mike you've got to post pics once you clean those parts up, I really want to see how good it works. And the Beauty Secrets liquid is what I normally use, but I ran out and had to buy the OrigiNails stuff. As far as the tinting, the McCormick Neon stuff works the best so far, the Purple is my personal favorite. Now hurry up and get that stuff cleaned up!

#45 mr.camaro

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 04:50 PM

Mike, great tutorial I bought the stuff after seeing it used in your momad. What is the best way to build it up to do custom fender flares or larger apllications? Hoping to find a way to use it instead of balsa wood which I always break.

#46 Foxer

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 03:51 AM

Mike you've got to post pics once you clean those parts up, I really want to see how good it works. And the Beauty Secrets liquid is what I normally use, but I ran out and had to buy the OrigiNails stuff. As far as the tinting, the McCormick Neon stuff works the best so far, the Purple is my personal favorite. Now hurry up and get that stuff cleaned up!


I came to the conclusion that for very small parts the powder gave it too much texture. I expected the powder to dissolve in the liquid but it acted more like a fine sand. I can see this is no problem when using as a filler that you would be sanding anyway.

Edited by Foxer, 05 March 2011 - 03:54 AM.


#47 Custom Mike

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 07:23 AM

I came to the conclusion that for very small parts the powder gave it too much texture. I expected the powder to dissolve in the liquid but it acted more like a fine sand. I can see this is no problem when using as a filler that you would be sanding anyway.



I kind of figured it would be rough, but at least now we know. Thanks for giving it a shot anyway Mike!


Mike, great tutorial I bought the stuff after seeing it used in your momad. What is the best way to build it up to do custom fender flares or larger apllications? Hoping to find a way to use it instead of balsa wood which I always break.



Kyle, there are two ways to build something up using this filler. One is the method I used on the Momad to fill in the backside of the wheel arches on the Magnum body, and the other is applying it straight to the area you want to build up. On my Concept Charger, I added a rear spoiler made entirely of this filler. I placed a piece of tape on the trunk (Since I wanted the spoiler to look like a separate piece, I made it removable) and laid the filler on it until I had the rough size and shape I wanted. If you were doing wheel flares, you could just lay down some filler where you wanted it on the plastic. Lay down some filler, and let the first application cure (About 15 minutes if it's not too thick) and apply some more, building it up until it was slightly larger than what you wanted. If it's a thick application, let it harden overnight,  then start shaping and sanding it. Here's a few pics of the Charger's spoiler being made, the only limit with this stuff for body work seems to be your imagination!


The filler built up into the rough shape of a spoiler, this took 3 applications to get the thickness I wanted...
ConceptCharger0366-vi.jpg


After a little rough shaping.....

ConceptCharger0368-vi.jpg


The final shape prior to fine/finish sanding...
ConceptCharger0369-vi.jpg


And a shot of it off the car, it's not completed in this pic, but you get the point. From here, it was finished off, then super-glued to the trunk. I cut the ends off and attached them to the quarter panels, making a 3-piece spoiler completely from Acrylic Filler!
ConceptCharger0370-vi.jpg


And the completed model, with the spoiler in place!
ConceptCharger010-vi.jpg


Edited by Custom Mike, 26 January 2013 - 05:13 PM.


#48 59 Impala

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 05:25 PM

Here is a picture of a hubcap that I copied using this stuff. Can you tell which one is the copy and which one is the original?
Posted Image

I use this stuff for making all kinds of small parts. I'm really sold on it fer sure. Dan

#49 Custom Mike

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 05:34 PM

Here is a picture of a hubcap that I copied using this stuff. Can you tell which one is the copy and which one is the original?
Posted Image

I use this stuff for making all kinds of small parts. I'm really sold on it fer sure. Dan


Dan, spill it, I can't see a difference. How did you get past the grainy texture that Mike had when he cast his stuff? Both of those hubcaps look like kits parts, I want to know how you pulled it off myself!

Edited by Custom Mike, 06 March 2011 - 05:35 PM.


#50 59 Impala

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 05:47 PM

Well Mike, I used the product from Sally's beauty supply store and I used Alumilite molding material for the mold. It is very smooth after it cures. I then pored in the liquid and then the powder. After it cured it was just as smooth as the mold. I myself can't tell which one is the original and which is the copy from the picture cause I forget and the only way I can find out is to take them off the car and look. :)

They both are sprayed with Alclad. The original had its chrome worn off so it had to be redone also. Dan

#51 Custom Mike

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 05:55 PM

Thanks for the info, I'll try it myself on a few things I have laying around, I sure can't seem to cast anything using resin!

#52 Foxer

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Posted 07 March 2011 - 04:26 AM

Well Mike, I used the product from Sally's beauty supply store and I used Alumilite molding material for the mold. It is very smooth after it cures. I then pored in the liquid and then the powder. After it cured it was just as smooth as the mold. I myself can't tell which one is the original and which is the copy from the picture cause I forget and the only way I can find out is to take them off the car and look. :)

They both are sprayed with Alclad. The original had its chrome worn off so it had to be redone also. Dan



Oh wow ... pour in separately? So is the powder just a filler? Looks like I have to go back and try it this way. Thanks for the input Dan. :D

#53 59 Impala

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Posted 07 March 2011 - 05:57 AM

Thanks for the info, I'll try it myself on a few things I have laying around, I sure can't seem to cast anything using resin!



I don't have very good luck doing this either Mike. I do like using this fingernail stuff to make small parts though. It works fine for me. I have had some parts come out not complete sometimes but that may be due to the shape of the part and I have to do it over and be just a little more carefull when I pour the liquid in and then the powder. Just do it a little at a time until I get the part fully made. It doesn't take very long in the process and it's ready to go in no time at all after it sets for a few minutes in the mold. Dan

#54 59 Impala

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Posted 07 March 2011 - 06:04 AM

Oh wow ... pour in separately? So is the powder just a filler? Looks like I have to go back and try it this way. Thanks for the input Dan. :D



I guess so Mike. This is the way my friend Mark, who's business is making dental parcials and false teeth, showed me how he does it when he uses his dental stuff to make parts for his models. He has access to all kinds of stuff that we can use in modeling but his stuff is very expensive. This fingernail stuff is almost the same stuff he uses but this is not dental quality. It smells the same though. Bad, real bad to me anyway. :lol: I use it for all the small parts that I have to make. Dan

#55 Foxer

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Posted 17 March 2011 - 04:53 AM

I tried Dan's method of pouring the liquid into the mold and adding the powder afterward. My success wasn't that great. It's slightly less gritty than mixing first but the powder still sank to the bottom and got the surface gritty. Maybe another brand of powder will dissolve in the liquid. The door handle was painted with MM Chrome Silver and not finished at all other than scraping away "flash" from the bottom. The mold was RTV silicon squish cast against a door with the handle.

Posted Image

Edited by Foxer, 17 March 2011 - 04:55 AM.


#56 Custom Mike

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Posted 17 March 2011 - 02:06 PM

Mike, have you tried hitting it with some 600? It might knock it down enough to make it a bit more passable.

#57 freightshaker1277

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 10:15 AM

I always wondered about the use of this stuff in my model building. My wife used to do nails and has all of this stuff still laying around at my disposal. Plus she just started to let me use her electric file, with a very fine speed control, after I told her I was filing/shaping by hand because my Dremel was to "hot" for the task and just melted the plastic.

 

Thank you for this great and helpful tip!



#58 Custom Mike

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 05:18 PM

No problem at all Will, I just hope it becomes another tool in your arsenal of tricks!

 

And if you noticed, most of the pictures are missing, that's due to Fotki having server issues (That they say will be resolved soon). It seems that some of their servers were in the NYC area and were affected by Hurricane Sandy. Once the server issues are resolved, they say my pictures will be back, we'll see!