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Out of Cranky's Lab-RAT-ory–Endlessly Rocking


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#21 Terror

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 08:58 AM

You never cease to amaze.Very cool technique I gotta try.How to make the chrome look old seem to be the hard part.Can this be done the same way .?I was thinking get it to the painted rust stage,bmf the part then do the scuffin and tearing?Whats you take on the chrome Crank?

#22 LAone

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 09:03 AM

wow, these are some great tips. great work by the way. i like the way its looking.

#23 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 10:15 AM

Hey, Terry, good question. Chrome is easy to weather by simply dusting (from at least 18 inches away) a few spritz of black, ruddy brown, and gray primer or paint, then follow it up with a dusting of dull coat.

With this grill on the 38 Ford I am going to apply a dark wash into the ribs of the grill and that will help . . .stay tuned in.

#24 Chuck Most

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 11:26 AM

At least its not from your la-VOR-otory! ;) :)

#25 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 11:45 AM

Ha! That would have made it extra gunky! :)

#26 Tom Kren

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 12:48 PM

WOW!!!! great job has me wanting to do a beater now where can i get that crakle paint craft stores??

#27 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 01:13 PM

Get it at Amazon. Cheaper and faster. :P

#28 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 01:42 PM

And Tom, I would love to see a beater emerge from your bench. Long live rust! :P

#29 Doubleought

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 02:09 PM

Fantastic, enjoyed looking as well as learning. Thanks for sharing.

#30 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 03:06 PM

Here's a close up of the crackle . . .

Posted Image

#31 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 03:08 PM

Okay, folks, this one is moving on to final touches, etc . . . so I am going to move it to "underglass."

Hope you all give these techniques and try and show your own results.

Yours truly, D. Cranky, Doctor of GUNK and Styrene-ology

#32 sak

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 03:13 PM

What is the purpose of the hairspray? To prevent the top coat from adhering to the undercoat, making it easier to scrspe into ?

#33 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 03:17 PM

Yes, Jeff, exaclty. The hairspray works as a layer that softens back up when you apply the water and it makes for the chipping of the paint easier . . .

#34 Foxer

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 03:56 PM

Here's a close up of the crackle . . .

Posted Image



This is weathering perfection! Now I have to go sweep out the bed of my truck cause it looks JUST like that. Oh, I don't have a truck, but if I did ...

#35 Ryan S.

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 04:10 PM

Question, would this hairspray technique as well as the salt technique work well enough with spray cans rather than an airbrush? I've got something in the works that I'd like to employ some of these tricks on but I'm using strictly spray cans at this point, no funds for an airbrush set up. Thanks.

Edit to add: Cranky, this truck looks awesome. Fantastic job. That pic of the dirty bed looks real. Great job.

Edited by Ryan S., 10 November 2010 - 04:11 PM.


#36 Darren B

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 05:17 PM

WOWOWOWOWOWOW :o once again another masterpiece, you always top the previous build, awesome try out on another technique and thank you for sharing with us!

#37 MikeMc

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 06:06 PM

Over the top and my skills Virgil!!!

one thought I always get and never see is a crushed hubcap......how about it???;) :wub: :wub: B)

#38 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 11 November 2010 - 02:49 AM

Thanks, chaps. Thanks for the kind words.

A crushed hubcap, now there's an idea . . .I would imagine it could be done using aluminum foil . . . hum . . .


Ryan, I don't think the hairspray technique would work as well (or if at all) with rattlecans because the rattlecan puts out way too much paint volume. Also, for the hairspray technique to work the final color coat has to be acrylic, not enamly or lacquer . . . acrylic softens up with the water which cuts down to the hairspray coat and then softens THAT and then the paint can be chipped.

But in this hobby you never say never . . . I wouls say give it a try . . . and report back.

#39 David G.

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Posted 11 November 2010 - 03:18 AM

Cranky, thanks for the paint tips, yor truly are the master of rust & dust! :blink:





Question, would this hairspray technique as well as the salt technique work well enough with spray cans rather than an airbrush? I've got something in the works that I'd like to employ some of these tricks on but I'm using strictly spray cans at this point, no funds for an airbrush set up. Thanks.

Edit to add: Cranky, this truck looks awesome. Fantastic job. That pic of the dirty bed looks real. Great job.



It does work! I used the technique on my Reaver.

Without meaning to hijack Cranky's thread, here's proof.

Posted Image

Posted Image


Regards,

David G.


#40 styromaniac

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Posted 11 November 2010 - 08:15 AM

Another masterful job.
You and Ken Hamilton are my favorite practitioners of the craft.

Edited by styromaniac, 11 November 2010 - 08:16 AM.