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Building Monogram's Street and Revell's Racing Version of Shelby Cobra.


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#41 sjordan2

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 12:29 PM

I get it. I've also felt disappointed in the reaction of modelers who want lots of information on the Mercedes Gullwing – and I've got massive reference on that – but don't really take advantage of it. But I'm always happy to share it with people who have a real interest and not just a casual one, and who might build one someday. Or not.

#42 Cato

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 12:40 PM

I've also felt disappointed in the reaction of modelers who want lots of information on the Mercedes Gullwing – and I've got massive reference on that – but don't really take advantage of it.

I'd really like you to post a few of your well-researched builds. Starting with the 1/16 Gullwings... ;)

#43 sjordan2

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 12:50 PM

I'd really like you to post a few of your well-researched builds. Starting with the 1/16 Gullwings... ;)


;) :D :D :D :D I'm a lot better at researching than building. You know the old saying, "Those who can't do, teach."

#44 Harry P.

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 12:57 PM

Not only is Skip a good researcher, he will go to great lengths to help out a fellow modeler.

Some time ago I was working on a Pocher RR. Skip mailed me an original RR owner's manual to help me out. The illustrations and information in that book were invaluable in helping me detail the model (which, for the record, I still have not finished! ;)) Obviously I mailed the book back to Skip when I was finished with it... but that illustrates just how far he will go to help a fellow modeler. :D

#45 Cato

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 01:07 PM

Not only is Skip a good researcher, he will go to great lengths to help out a fellow modeler.
Some time ago I was working on a Pocher RR. Skip mailed me an original RR owner's manual to help me out. The illustrations and information in that book were invaluable in helping me detail the model (which, for the record, I still have not finished! ;))

That's a really classy thing to do. I'm sure Skip has something to post which would make him proud and teach us some tricks.
-AND you Mr. P. still need to post some Giant Benz pics which you promised. There's no snow in Chi-Town now...
Posting that RR would make Skip proud of his contribution...

#46 sjordan2

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 01:08 PM

Not only is Skip a good researcher, he will go to great lengths to help out a fellow modeler.

Some time ago I was working on a Pocher RR. Skip mailed me an original RR owner's manual to help me out. The illustrations and information in that book were invaluable in helping me detail the model (which, for the record, I still have not finished! ;)) Obviously I mailed the book back to Skip when I was finished with it... but that illustrates just how far he will go to help a fellow modeler. :D


Harry also scanned the entire book for me and posterity. As far as I know, it's the only digital file on the Phantom II owner's manual in existence.

Edited by sjordan2, 15 June 2011 - 01:10 PM.


#47 W-409

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Posted 15 June 2011 - 07:29 PM

So, I'm building the Street version, and now I finally understood, where the battery actually is. White wall lettering is painted with a really small brush using Revell gloss white. It works fine, and doesn't go off from the tire, even if many people say that Revell enamel paints are bad and you can't paint a tire with them... I've never had any problems with that. Thank you for the info and reference, now I must get back to Cobra...

#48 W-409

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Posted 16 June 2011 - 07:44 AM

Detailing the battery... Well, I installed it just to the firewall, it's now there and it will stay there. First picture shows that I'm using Detail Master's Battery hardware set, which includes some photoetched parts to detail the battery. Also some battery cable from Scale Dreams, but I must glue them next to the starter, and frame. I can add them to the battery when body and interior are installed to the chassis. Before detailing the battery, I glued a bottom piece to the battery, because there was a great hole. Paint, few photoetch parts, and some detail painting, installing the battery and now it's done. Next step is to continue building the brake lines...

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#49 W-409

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 04:42 AM

A little update to this project. I built the interior ready. First I painted the steering wheel to simulate wood. First some brown paint on it, and then some clear orange. I also painted the center of the steering wheel as blue, but Cobra logo is still silver. Then I glued the cauges to the dash, and glued that thing on its place. I also started building the brake lines, but they aren't ready yet. Also installed battery cables to starter and frame. Also painted the body from the "wrong side", now this one is slowly coming together. Only the radiator stuff, and I can install the body. This one is getting close to being ready! Well, the hood must be painted...

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#50 crazyjim

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 06:25 AM

Nice details going on there, Niko.

#51 Cato

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Posted 17 June 2011 - 09:37 AM

Detailing the battery... Well, I installed it just to the firewall, it's now there and it will stay there.
Also some battery cable from Scale Dreams, but I must glue them next to the starter, and frame.

Niko,
You actually now have it in the correct place but it's called the 'footbox'. Where your legs go when seated inside the car. The 'firewall' is the large bulkhead under the windshield, behind the engine.
It's probably too late now but if you build another Cobra and want greater accuracy, here are some tips:
Use thinner spark wires (like .3mm)-original was 7mm in diameter, yours look like modern race 10mm wire.
All chassis steel tubing was black paint.
The brake ducts on the rear of your car were only on full competition models which also had a differential cooler.
The battery cables should run from the battery positive to the solenoid which should be mounted on the firewall above the footbox. You could simulate one with a small diameter black rod or sprue with a terminal coming out of each side.Then wire from the other side of the solenoid to the starter. The battery neg cable then runs to the frame or a bellhousing bolt. Here is a smallblock, 289 '64 Cobra but the 427 will look similar in this area. You can see the battery just past the carburetor and the white fiberglass footbox with a ventilation hose which brings cool air from the nose vent to the footwell in the cockpit. Also note the black chassis tube from the firewall forward.
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Here is a competition Cobra with the race batteries mounted behind the passenger seat:
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Next are the brake and clutch reservoirs seen on a 427 (or 428) car, mounted on the driver side inner fender. Their hard lines run down to the brake box under the driver footbox then out to brass tee junctions at the front and rear crossmembers. From there, rubber hoses to each brake caliper. Also seen here is the puke tank mounted to the firewall. A 1" diameter hose runs from the rear of the intake manifold to the inboard side of the tank and another hose runs from the opposite side of the tank and just hangs straight down to just below the frame. It's called a road draft tube:
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Lastly, a view of the chassis from below and from the rear forward. You have your brake lines mounted under the chassis tubes. That would allow them to be damaged on a road car. Here you can see they are mounted on the outboard side of the chassis tube on the drivers side and held on by large steel worm clamps. They are 3/16" ID and in scale, that would mean you make them out of .005" (or .2mm) line. The line on the passenger side is a fuel return line to the gas tank. This car was 'over restored' and originals weren't this neat when brand new:
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I'm sure you chose the wheels because you like them but for accuracy, all CSX 3000 (427 and 428) cars ran on Halibrand magnesium wheels or Kelsey Hayes aluminum 'Sunburst' wheels. The torque of the big engines made wire wheels unsafe and they were only used on CSX 2000 series small engined cars. The Goodyears used on these cars were called 'Sports Cars Specials' or Bluestreaks. A few were fitted with Firestones but Shelby was a Goodyear dealer.
I doubt if you love Cobras enough to go through all this work but the information is out there to really improve these kits. You're a skilled builder and are certainly capable of building a faithful model.
Hope this is helpful to you.

#52 Darin Bastedo

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 06:11 AM

I think you are doing a fine job on your model. I appreciate the kind words Cato Has said about my efforts to research and document my Street Cobra project, but don't let that diminish your efforts here. While total accuracy is a result many of us strive for there is something to be said for getting a model finished also. My model will be a fully detailed and accurate replica, yet between sratch-building the correct wheels and having them cast, hammering out the hood and doors out of aluminium, along with fabricating the inner panels and interior parts, changing the exhaust to the correct under car layout, and many other small detail changes (some of which were mentioned by Cato) my Cobra has become a Four year project, with much more work to be done.

There were many cobras that have been rebuilt or modified to the point where they are hard to determine what they started out as with out actually researching that particular serial #. CSX3181 (the car I'm building) is one of them. I'm building it the way it came from shelby, but after it was wrecked it was rebuilt to resemble a 427 S/C with side-pipes and hood scoop etc. but still has some of the street car features such as the small gas tank, and the vents in the cowl.

What I'm saying is build it the way you want it to be, call it done and enjoy it. If after you want to go the route of the insane and try to fix the inaccuracies in the Revell/Monogram kit, drop me or Cato a note and I will be glad to share my research , plans and drawings with you and we can skip off to the loony bin together.

Enjoy your model and have fun, that is what it's all about.

#53 Belair2k

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 05:54 PM

What I'm saying is build it the way you want it to be, call it done and enjoy it. If after you want to go the route of the insane and try to fix the inaccuracies in the Revell/Monogram kit, drop me or Cato a note and I will be glad to share my research , plans and drawings with you and we can skip off to the loony bin together.

Enjoy your model and have fun, that is what it's all about.

Well said, Darin.
Here's a link to CSX 3287 which sold locally recently.


http://www.legendarymotorcar.com/site/Shelby_Cobra_427_9116

#54 W-409

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 07:15 PM

Thanks, Cato for the info! I'm building this as a practise for the other Cobra, I have on the stash. I wan't that one to be well detailed Race car. I think, I'll make this one finished very soon, and then I can take a little break from Cobras, and maybe after few weeks, I'll start the other one. Great info, didn't know about the black frame rails, must paint them like that to the Racing version. Also must do those few more things bit different, and that one will look good. I must get back installing the radiator, then I can put the body on...

#55 W-409

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 04:53 AM

Got some more work done today, after spending last friday night on local Cruising, and weekend in DragRacing... I installed the brake lines, they are now pretty good, well, they are not correct, not as like 1:1. But anyway I installed the radiator, and built the lower water hose. Also I istalled the body-interior-chassis together. Now everything is coming along very nicely, and this one is getting ready pretty soon. Also painted the convertible top from the other side, and the hood with primer. Those are still needing some paint.

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Lots of cleaning coming, and then the final assembly. :D

#56 cotto

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 06:38 AM

This is a cool project, other than the slightly oversized metal flakes in the paint, I really like it.

#57 W-409

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Posted 20 June 2011 - 07:40 PM

Thanks Jay! I don't think, the oversized metal flakes are a problem. In many showcars, they are really big, and in this scale if those would be correct sized, no one could see them well, so I think, it's better to keep those. And I think, they are looking pretty good too...

#58 W-409

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 02:13 AM

This is the last update before moving it to Under Glass section... I istalled the front bumber, headlights and turn signals to the front. Also added taillights, register plate and rear bumber to the rear end of the car. Sidewiew mirror is on its place, but I must still put the other one. Before that, I will install the windshield and convertible top, which is now painted. I painted the hood also, maybe tomorrow I can finish this buildup. The chassis needs still some cleaning, and so does the engine bay. Here you go, few pics.

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#59 W-409

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Posted 21 June 2011 - 11:48 PM

My Shelby Cobra Street version is now finished, and I will post it under glass section now. This one was very great project, and I had very much fun with it. I'm quite happy about the finished product too, but of course there are lot more things, what I could have done better. Thanks to everyone who has took time and wiew this build, thanx for all of the comments, and special thanks to Cato for all of the great information!

#60 W-409

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Posted 28 June 2011 - 07:06 AM

Haha, maybe you guys thought, that's it, but it is not! This ain't over. I'll be building the Racing Version also in this topic, because some of my reference materials are here, and it's easier to keep this thing in one thread. I can also do a little comparing with the Monogram and Revell kits. ;)

I've started this model long time ago, but I stopped the progress very soon. I have started the engine, it's painted red and there are few mistakes. I must fix them, and strip the red paint, because Ford engines are blue, aren't they? Also the frame is painted silver, but I must strip the paint off and paint some gloss black on it. Body is also primered, but I've found few mistakes from it after primering, so it needs some repair and new primer coat before the color. This one will be the blue car, which has nice decals straight from the box.

Interior is also started, but I think, that it doesn't need any rebuilding, just finish that nicely and it will look good. Now I must take few things, like engine apart, and then I can strip the paints and continue building with this one.

The Boxart.
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This one will be more realistic, than the Street Version.