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1/16 Scale Army Vega Funny Car - Updated 4/14/2015 HUGE UPDATE

Don Prudhomme Army Vega Funny Car Vega Funny Car

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#2121 Mooneyzs

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 06:30 AM

Hello Fellas.... Little update for you. its not a very big one this morning.  I took Paul's advice and repainted the couplers for the rear end and transmission. Here is a comparison between the before and after:

 

Before, painted Alclad magnesium:

 

DP-Army-Vega3338-1_zpsc22b4ee3.jpg

 

After, painted Tamiya Silver titaninum:

 

DP-Army-Vega3368-1_zps9e7105d8.jpg

 

 

More updates to come later


Edited by Mooneyzs, 13 June 2013 - 06:40 AM.


#2122 mr68gts

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 06:46 AM

Chris,

 

 The couplers look great. The star are the rest of the coupler system to connect the drive shaft to the trans/ rear end. It has an internal spline and a big star spline on the outside to mate to the outside coupler. FYI, the driveshafts were either 1.25" 32 spline or 1.5" 35 spline then. 1.75" 40 spline didn't come about till top fuel high gear only reversers came on scene. (although I did build a 40 sline reverser in a std 3 spd for Shied Diesel once, but that's a long story lol)



#2123 Mooneyzs

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 08:19 AM

Paul... thanks man. I gotcha on the star portion of the coupler system. I had got measurements on the couplers I made from the chassis shop website and i remember seeing the the star coupling. Now I am questioning myself and how I had designed the drive shaft system. Let me post a pic and see what you think.

DP-Army-Vega2580-1.jpg


Edited by Mooneyzs, 14 June 2013 - 11:30 AM.


#2124 mr68gts

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 12:01 PM

Chris

whats the diameter of the driveshaft tube? what you have would look correct to the unknowing but it wouldn't be correct. go to lencoracing.com and you can see how they are in the coupler section. also the alignment is off. Crankshaft centerline should be inline with the rear end. think how they build the real deal. they use a round bar through the motor and the rear end to make sure its all aligned. you may already have it and because it just a quick mock up for pics it wasnt lined up properly for the photo.

#2125 Mooneyzs

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 01:15 PM

Paul... Thanks man. I will check out lenco's site. I was using .125" diameter brass rod which is equivalent to 2". So i need to go with a smaller diameter tube. Yeah the alignment has been off since I had raised the mounting locations of the rear end to get it to the correct stance and I am not sure if I have a fix for it since it has a slight angle. I know that it wont be correct and may have to live with it that way. I feel like I am in a rock and hard spot on what to do now with it since I am trying to make things as accurate as I can.

Edited by Mooneyzs, 14 June 2013 - 01:21 PM.


#2126 mr68gts

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 09:54 PM

Chris,

 

I would change the diameter of the shaft to reflect the correct dimensions. Add the star and clamp. There are stars with shank simular to what you made for a coupler also and call it good. It would be to much reengineering at this point of the game to have to change something that would most likely never be seen anyway even though you, I, and maybe a few others know isn't "correct". There's only so much we as modelers can do. Only so much details we can add before it overwelms the whole thing and yourself. I've run into this problem on my 935 Porsche in 1/12.

 

Paul



#2127 comp1839

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 02:55 AM

chris, wonderful work! a simple solution to this may be to just add a driveshaft cover of some sorts. they are mandatory today, don't know about back then. although,  i would find it hard to believe  the nhra would allow an exposed driveshaft running between a drivers legs. where anything could wrap around it as it rotated.

 

 

edit:

 so, got off my lazy butt and looked up the rule in the 1974 rulebook.

 

"a full 360 degree 1/8 steel driveline cover extending the full length of the driveshaft from the rear of the transmission case or tramsmission adapter shield to the rear end center section is acceptable and highly recommended. all funny cars using couplers must have a loop as described above - 360 degree- in the area of the drivers seat."

 

maybe this will give you something to work with. hope it helps.


Edited by comp1839, 15 June 2013 - 04:07 AM.


#2128 hansb57

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 05:05 AM

You probably got them all but some pics of the Vega showed some nice details (although not the drive shaft)

 

http://www.speedhunt...nakes_nest_pt1/



#2129 mr68gts

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 05:25 AM

Chris,

 

Actually Dave is correct. I had that thought in my sleep this morning lol. What made me think of it though was the fact that Revell had it in all the funny car kits. Why else would the 'driveshaft" be so thick in the kits. And that remedies alot of problems. I don't know if the had a quick connect setup at that point however. We did sell the special cover, tube, and clamp while I was there though. (clamp was a over center style v band clamp, same one used in fuel pumps today)

 

Although the restored car may not have this setup due to what I believe is the NHRA rule that the driveshaft must be disconnected for "cackle" purposes. And since they are not running the car it wouldn't have the cover in it for ease of driveshaft removal. Maybe all this info will help lol.

 

Paul



#2130 heatride

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 05:37 AM

Chris as I look at this thread its just amazing the talent . Thanks for taking the time to post all of this and explain things .



#2131 Mooneyzs

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 06:16 AM

Paul... Thank you for all of your help with this drive shaft and coupling. I am going to add the star and clamps like you suggested. I got onto the lenco website to take a look at the parts. My one question I have is I believe that the way I originally set up the drive shaft and couplings, it looks like I put the couplings on backwards. Do you know if there were any configurations where the couplings were arranged the direction I put them by chance.

One thing I have been thinking about is flipping my couplings around and adapt the star portion as well as changing the diameter of the drive shaft. I have been trying to figure out how I could use my existing parts with out having to redo everything because I want to make things right. I also understand that there is only so much we can do as modelers to make it as accurate as possible and only a few of us would really know that it's not "correct". I really wish I had pics of the drive shaft and couplings to see how it was set up on this restored car since I have been basing the build on those pics from the snake racing website.

Dave,,,, thank you my friend for all of your help as well. You know I never though about adding a driveshaft cover. I have to agree that I don't think the NHRA would allow the exposed driveshaft being so close to the drivers legs and the chance for anything to get caught by the spinning driveshaft. Thank you for taking the time to look this up in the 1974 rule book. Do you happen to have any pics showing something like Paul has mentioned with v-band clamps. I am now trying to think how to create the mating parts that would go on the rear end and transmission to add this cover and clamp. Or should I make this cover just over the are exposed in the driver seat area and then open under the seat. Not sure if this makes sense how I am describing it.

Hans..... Thank for the link. I had found some of those pics before when I was searching when I started this project. I just wish there were more pics of the chassis and these little details that can't be seen.

Paul and Dave..... I want you both to know how much I appreciate you guys helping me with this. It means a lot to me that you are trying to help me make this as accurate as possible.

#2132 Mooneyzs

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 06:18 AM

Hey Glen... Thank you for the kind words and for following along with this build. Feel free to save any of the pics or if you have any questions on how I did things feel free to ask and I will be more than happy to help out.

#2133 AZ Boy

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 06:40 AM

Chris, I forgot that I had this pic in my reference folder for my Radici & Wise build. I hope this will help you in some way.

Attached Files


Edited by AZ Boy, 15 June 2013 - 06:40 AM.


#2134 mr68gts

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 06:41 AM

Chris,

 

I was actually trying to remember how the couplers were and I think your right. (it's been a while, moving from ca to the sticks of AZ had removed me from the drag scene for a while now lol)the ones we sold were a 2 peice deal that slipped over everything. There was one piece that bolted to the rear end pinion support. Basically a tube with a flange to bolt in the pinion support bolts. The other tube was quick clamped to the rear lid of the lenco. This type of setup used a different lid with a small flange to accept the other half of the full tube with the same lip. Most chassis builders back then just made what ever they had to to make it work I think so anything would go here. This was just the setup we used at Lenco. I've seen tubes welded in as a ds tube, bolt together 2 piece split lenth wise and everything else inbetween so use your imagination.

 

Here's a pic of the clamp btw, and a pic of the one I made out of photoetch sprue in 1/12 scale.

bandclamp_zps3b67f33f.jpg

blowoffvalveclamp_zps8c4bcd02.jpg


Edited by mr68gts, 15 June 2013 - 06:46 AM.


#2135 comp1839

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 07:25 AM

i think i have the pieces, that paul is talking about, in these pics. i can only guess as to the setup as i have never owned or raced a funny car. the stuff i am familiar with due to hanging out at the chassis shop is also much newer. so, it may or may not be applicable to this build.

 

here is the rear of the lenco trans. i believe the lip paul is talking about with the "v" is machined into the rear trans cover plate.

 

0052_zps4c156992.jpg

 

 

here is a shot of the same car. showing the rear axle pinion support and the rear of the trans.

 

011-2.jpg

 

perhaps paul can verify if i'm right on the trans piece.

 

again, i hope this helps but, remember this stuff is much newer than what the build is.



#2136 mr68gts

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 08:52 AM

Dave. thanks for that pic! That is a lenco quick coupler.
chris. The lip is what slips inside the tube and the ridge is one half of the male v. the other half is on the tube and thats how the clamp holds it on. With lencos ds tube they were in 2 lengths and the tube on the pinion was made to length to cover the rest of the ds sliping over the trans tube by the chassis shop.
paul

#2137 Mooneyzs

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 10:57 AM

Arron.... Thanks for the pic. It does help.

Paul.... Thanks for the pic of the "V"band clamp. I am very familiar with them since I used to design tooling and test equipment for an aerospace company that I used to worked for. One of the clamp companies we used was clampco. I can totally picture what you are talking about and I have an idea of how I am going to do this, I just hope it turns out as good as the visual I have in my head lol.

Dave....thanks for posting the pics. Now I know what I need to do to the end piece of the lenco tranny to modify it.

I just want to say a big thanks and appreciate your guys help it has given me a solution on how to fix this. I just hope I can make you guys proud. Stay tuned and I hope to have some good progress to show on it. Thanks again.

#2138 hansb57

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 06:07 PM

As your drive shaft and coupler thing intrigued me I looked at some other pics of the real car and notices that in your mid motor plate mount the oil pressure gauge is missing. I can hardly live with the fact that you omitted that on purpose  ;-)



#2139 comp1839

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 11:08 PM

hans, if you're referring to the last pic on the site you posted, i wouldn't get to upset.

 

it's not the right car.



#2140 hansb57

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Posted 16 June 2013 - 12:38 AM

hans, if you're referring to the last pic on the site you posted, i wouldn't get to upset.

 

it's not the right car.

 

I was refering to this page.    Take a look at one with body open and taken from behind the engine

 

http://www.snakeraci...4-army-vega.asp