The Ultimate Paint Stripping Thread
Posted 02 April 2008 - 03:57 PM
Posted 02 April 2008 - 04:06 PM
Posted 04 April 2008 - 09:24 AM
I haven't read all the replies from the others just yet so if this is already covered pardon the redundancey. Any high concentrated degreaser such as Castrol Super Clean will work and that's found at major auto parts stores. Right now in the bucket I'm using a product called Manny Rose equivallant to CSC obtained thru industrial suppliers. That stuff is very potent and effective!!!
Posted 05 April 2008 - 06:01 PM
I've used DOT-3 with great success. At wally world you can get their super-tech brand pretty cheap and it works very well. It doesn't give off too strong of a smell but I would still recommend using in a ventilated area. Also if you go the brake fluid route, wear plastic gloves, or else it will dry your skin out something fierce.
i use brake fluid with good success also
Posted 21 August 2008 - 06:09 AM
Posted 21 August 2008 - 06:40 AM
Posted 21 August 2008 - 06:58 AM
It smells (and feels) like brake fluid-------but brake fluid may be harsh on styrene (and deadly to resin!) so it's got to be something else. I used it when I had to repaint the Ford I'm working on.........only drawback though, is if you've got any putty work, kiss it goodbye as it'll break that right up!
Brush it on, let it sit for a couple hours, and the paint'll start to lift with ease!
Posted 21 August 2008 - 07:24 AM
Posted 23 August 2008 - 11:07 AM
put it into a rubbermade food holder that is bigenough to hole the project
let it sit for about 1 hour-24 hours
and bam it will peel off or you can use a tooth brush to take it off
Posted 23 August 2008 - 11:25 AM
Posted 23 August 2008 - 11:48 AM
Posted 24 August 2008 - 08:53 AM
A note on the Super Clean/ Purple Power prodcucts. It is lye based, avoid contact with skin and eye protection a must. Works great on enamels. For lacquers, sand through to the primer in a few spots, to let the chemical attack the primer. The lacquer will just slough off after the primer is disolved. Unless the purple stuff is BRAND new, it seems to have trouble with lacquer paints.
true that i got ulsers on my hands because i toutched that stuff when it was new
ulsers on the hands dont feel to good trust me
Posted 24 August 2008 - 10:12 AM
Posted 21 September 2008 - 11:36 AM
Posted 21 September 2008 - 12:12 PM
Posted 22 September 2008 - 03:17 AM
I had some Gumout brake fluid on hand (didn't want to spend money if I didn't have to), worked GREAT. As far as the address, not moving til this friday, thanks for asking.
James, Ive never had a problem on metals. You have to watch some of the Revell plastics from the past couple of years as Brake fluid will make the plastic VERY brittle. In fact Jimmy Flintstones Resin is a Watch out item too. I mad e the mistake of painting under BAD conditions and one of his bodies was in the way. Oh I repaired the damage of course, in fact its not even noticeable now. Uh , as for the Brake fluid, use the really cheap fluid . Ive found the NAME BRAND stuff isn't as effective . Hey hows the new address working? Ed Shaver
Posted 05 October 2008 - 03:43 PM
like Gregg typed ,store brand paint strippers work the best. I used the spay on aircraft stripper from wally, worked almost instantly, did learn not to scub it off while not wearing a shirt. DUHH!. on my part , but it was hot that day. I also have one of the palstic totes , next size up from a shoe box to keep the body in while spaying on the stripper, helps keep the mess to a minimum.
Posted 12 April 2009 - 12:51 PM
I've got most of the bad spots sanded down, but it needs lot's more work. I'd much rather strip off the paint and start from bare white plastic.
What's the best stuff to use that will strip the paint off clean, but wont' harm the plastic at all? I'm very close to purchasing another kit just for a fresh body.