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New Challenger Question


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#21 Chuck Kourouklis

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 12:27 PM

lol

 

Btw, the vinyl seats in the AMT kit might be worth trying out before passing final judgment. They're a stiff vinyl that'll take Tamiya TS paints and Duplicolor upholstery dyes with no trouble.

 

The ones that came in AMT's 2010 Camaro actually look more correct than the plastic ones in Revell's.



#22 Edsel-Dan

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 12:40 PM

Maybe if they were white r gray I would have, but since they are black. Trash they go!!

or I should say, went!!!



#23 oldscool

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 01:15 PM

Since we are on the subject of new Challenger kits, can the front fascia be installed before the chassis on the Revell kit?



#24 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 01:22 PM

Maybe if they were white r gray I would have, but since they are black. Trash they go!!

or I should say, went!!!

Man, don't ash-can parts !! There's somebody here who could use them, I'm sure.



#25 Rob Hall

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 01:57 PM

I would assume the black could be covered w/ a primer before painting...



#26 Chuck Kourouklis

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 02:29 PM

Yup, just precisely what I did.

 

'Course, I covered 'em right back in a dark color.  But they'll take Tamiya primer, and if you airbrush the Duplicolor dye, you can either basecoat with the white or count on other colors being opaque enough to cover the black.



#27 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 02:36 PM

Bodyshop supply stores also have a rattle-can gray flex-primer that MAY work on the seat material.

 

SMM-39133.jpg



#28 Edsel-Dan

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 06:50 PM

Got rid of the kit right after finding the Cheap unusable seats in it. 

Gave it away to get rid of it. I will wait to get a Revell version now. I

wanted the Promo versions in the different colors, but not anymore

How do you prevent the chemical reaction there??

I wrap rims with foil before mounting the tire to block it Can't do that with the seat.

 

or have they Finally found rubber/vinyl & Styrene compounds that do not react over time now??



#29 Chuck Most

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:24 PM

So much for the concept of 'scale models'. :blink:

Seems to happen all the time with engines, anyway. Check the Red Ram Hemi from the 2002-era Ala Kart against the same engine in the original Ala Kart kit or the '29 Model A roadster and you'll see an obvious difference in size- the newer engine is a bit underscale, while the original is just a teensy bit overscale from what I've seen. Every Chrysler 392 varies somewhat in size, even among kits of the same scale by the same manufacturer. I guess that since the engine is mostly hidden away in the engine compartment when the model is built, the manufacturers might be willing to fudge the numbers a little bit more than they would on more visible parts of the model. Not sure if that's true or not, but seems logical and it works for me. B)



#30 Chuck Most

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:27 PM

or have they Finally found rubber/vinyl & Styrene compounds that do not react over time now??

I've used liquid superglue- run a steady bead all the way around the bottom of the seats. That should not only keep the seats firmly in place, but act as a barrier between the styrene and vinyl. I don't know if they've reformulated the vinyl so it won't burn the plastic parts, but I haven't personally seen a kit made after the late '80's with vinyl burns on any of the plastic parts, so I'm guessing something was changed somewhere down the line.



#31 Ace-Garageguy

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 04:11 AM

............Check the Red Ram Hemi from the 2002-era Ala Kart against the same engine in the original Ala Kart kit or the '29 Model A roadster and you'll see an obvious difference in size- the newer engine is a bit underscale, while the original is just a teensy bit overscale from what I've seen.....

Yes Chuck, and I'm one of the ones who drove some of the last nails in the coffin on the debate as to whether the later-release AMT Ala Kart Red Ram was correct or not, by doing the unthinkably radical thing of actually MEASURING a real one and dividing by 25, then posting the results several years ago on other forums.

 

I've since brought up the noticeable underscale smallblock Ford engines in the Revell Buttera T and its derivatives.

 

Then there's the fact that NONE of the '34 Fords on the market have the correct scale-length hoods; some are several scale inches off, and it makes a difference in the first impression of the car (to me especially I guess, as I deal with the 1:1s regularly and have a sense of what they're supposed to look like, proportion-wise). Other examples abound ad nauseam.

 

Minor scale discrepencies don't bother me, but when engines or hoods are SEVERAL INCHES incorrect in scale, there's really something wrong. Like I've said before, I wish I could get paid for turning out results that were so inaccurate. I'm certainly not perfect by any means, but several scale inches discrepancy? Come on.


Edited by Ace-Garageguy, 05 February 2013 - 04:15 AM.