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The Straight Six community build


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#201 Casey

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 10:09 PM

Tonight I removed the molded in grille "teeth", getting it ready for the Model Car Garage photoetched inserts:

 

31013grille2.jpg

 

 

 

Next I test fit the hood and grille with the body, making sure there are no fitment issues. Looks good:

 

31013hood1.jpg

 

31013hoodtest.jpg

 

The LH side of the grille drooped a tad before I clicked the pic, but all three fit together well.  I still need to test fit the upper trim piece which attaches to the hood and find the front bumper, too. The hood'll need some more attention at the rear corners, some narrowing for a better fit side-to-side, and receive some bracing detail on the underside, as I used the fiberglass hood from the '68 kit. The little gap just inboard of the antenna base on the fender will need to be filled, too. I've had no luck finding a scale thickness wire which is stiff enough to use as an antenna, so I'm open to suggestions.

 

I also picked up some paint last week at HL, giving myself two choices, so I have to check out what the interior color options were for each exterior color, then make a decision. I'm excited to put the airbrush to work.  :)



#202 Chuck Most

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 12:42 PM

I still think it needs to be painted some digsusting shade of green or brown. I mean, just pick the most repugnant looking shade from the Dart brochure and let 'er rip! :D

 

Started another Hudson 308 powered hot rod, this based around a '41 Chevy pickup-

P002-vi.jpg



#203 Casey

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 01:52 PM

I still think it needs to be painted some digsusting shade of green or brown. I mean, just pick the most repugnant looking shade from the Dart brochure and let 'er rip! :D

 

There are plenty of browns and greens to chose from, but I think I'll choose one of these:

 

69dartcolor3.jpg

 

69dartcolor2.jpg

 

I suppose the goldish color is in the brown family, though.  :D



#204 Custom Mike

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 04:06 PM

Oh man, that is a pretty Blue Casey, go with that!



#205 Austin T

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 06:42 PM

I'm with Mike, I love that blue/turquoise. where can I get some of it?



#206 Casey

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 06:56 PM

Oh man, that is a pretty Blue Casey, go with that!

 

I think it looks good on a Dart, without being too flashy. It's a little greener than the pic above shows, but not quite this green/turquoise:

 

DSC_7172_copy.JPG

 

 

Hobby Lobby or similar, Austin, I think it's Folk Art acrylic.



#207 Chuck Most

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Posted 24 March 2013 - 10:07 AM

Yeah, that'll work, too. <_<

 

 

:P



#208 blunc

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 12:20 AM

 

Thanks, Mike, but I don't think we need to worry about that.

 

I received the miniature hardware from RB Motion the other day, and as expected, it's fantastic stuff. Very small, but the quality is excellent.

 

I drilled the bolt holes though the leaf spring eyes, so I could see if the bolts looked scale appropriate. I think I went a little too large with the front bolts, at least as far as head size is concerned. I may have to use the next smaller size bolts:

 

leafeye3_zps7f702183.jpg

 

leafeye2_zps9b616317.jpg

 

 

Maybe the thickness of the bolt head is making it look even larger? It scales out to about a 1" head size, which, going on memory is a bit too big.

 

I may end up redoing the front spring mounting brackets in brass to match the rear brackets, as they are about as good as they're going to get:

 

leafeye4_zps49bc9072.jpg

 

 

The rear spring eyes were prepped for bolts, then both the shackles and bolts were mocked up with the springs. I had to trim the shackles to length (so easy with a pair of scissors), then round over the corners slightly, but these p/e pieces are a dream to work with, even taking their small size into account:

 

shackle3_zps55264e72.jpg

 

 

I need to find some tiny black rubber-like punched out circles to use for the squished out rubber bushings, as my smallest punch is only 1/8" in diameter.

if you haven't found a solution for representing squished bushings, I suggest insulation from 16 or 18 gage wire, it can be sliced thin then added to the brackets.



#209 MAGNUM4342

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 06:15 PM

I've been sneaking in here taking the occaisional peek and I like what you guys are doing. Chuck- My guess on the green was going to be "Gouge your eyes out" green. I pulled up that first picture of the interior and my cat, who WAS sitting on the arm of my chair, blinked twice and slowly left the room! :D 

 

Casey- I have long wondered why there aren't many builds by the mods here. I see now you were just resting up. You and I have had our dustups but you really do put alot of thought and work into your builds. I would most likely have left the inner fendertops alone, counting on the paint to dull those sharp details. That would have been the wrong move. Kudos on your attention to details. I like your paint choice too, but then who wouldn't after seeing Chuck's wicked witch of the west colors! :blink: 

 

Just kidding Chuck, you know I loves-ya!



#210 Casey

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Posted 12 April 2013 - 04:28 PM

I wasn't liking the rectangular upper half of the gas tank, and the molded in straps and brackets weren't pretty either, so the area between the framerails was removed from the '69 chassis, and replaced with the same section from the '68 Dart kit, only modified. I cut off the gas tank, cleaned up the spare tire well section, filled in the new floorpan hole where the molded-in gas tank was located, and added the missing third of the well using the '69's well. Here you can see the '69 section which was added to complete the well, and the filler piece above it:

 

sparetirewell.jpg

 

I added a .030" filler strip on both sides of the floor section, then test fit it in the chassis until I was satisfied. I also squared up the framerails a bit, filled in two sink marks, then started removing the rear torque boxes. The front leaf spring bracket "pads" have yet to be removed in this pic:

 

chassis41213.jpg

 

The hood got another coat of filler primer and is now ready for me to add the bracing to the underside, but the notch/gap on the fender, near the right rear corner of the hood, still needs attention:

 

hoodfit41213.jpg

 



#211 southpier

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Posted 13 April 2013 - 01:59 AM

definitely a labor of love



#212 charlie8575

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Posted 14 April 2013 - 08:10 PM

I forgot I signed up for this. Some very nice work. And Casey, that Dart is fantastic.

 

I'll probably start poking at my Hudson again sooner rather than later.

 

Charlie Larkin



#213 Casey

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 06:38 PM

I re-shaped the edges of the floorpan insert piece (I went after two sinks marks on the inside edges of the framerails, and ended up sanding away some thickness), re-did the spare tire well ribs, and started cleaning up the area around the front leaf spring brackets. The torque boxes were removed, which meant some shaving/thinning of the first scale foot of the framerails, patching in where the torque boxes were located, and I will need to add the cross braces to which the leaf spring brackets attach:

 

51013one.jpg

 

I have yet to glue in the insert, as the ribs and drain plugs need some more detailing and I need to finish the gas tank and the section of the filler neck which will be visible, the add some tank straps.

 

51013two.jpg

 

 



#214 Custom Mike

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 02:07 PM

Beautiful work Casey...this is gonna be a real beauty when you wrap it up!



#215 Casey

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Posted 21 May 2013 - 08:45 AM

I was determined to improve the look of the cowl vent openings, but after thinning the backside and scribing each gap all the way through, it was apparent the vent area now looked worse. The gaps weren't even and the plastic was too soft to retain it's shape, so I removed all of the vent's "teeth" and found a photoetched grille piece which had the same spacing to fill in the hole. The p/e is only .005" thick, so I have I have to dig a shallow recess around the opening, lay the p/e sheet inside the recess, then make sure the p/e is flush with the rest of the cowl. Here's my starting point:

 

cowl52013.jpg

 

 

That wasn't so bad. We'll see how the cowl levels out and what it looks like after a quick prime:

 

vent520133.jpg

 

vent520132.jpg



#216 Custom Mike

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 05:00 PM

That's something that has bugged me for a while now Casey, your solution looks like a great option! I'll be waiting to see it in primer!



#217 Casey

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Posted 01 September 2013 - 06:22 PM

After some sanding on the cowl panel, it's ready for a skim coat of filler:

 

pecowlvent1.jpg

 

 

Backlit shot to check for any excess superglue which may have seeped out between the ribs:

 

pecowlvent2.jpg

 

 

The floorpan/trunk area between the rear framerails is almost, done, too. I need to finish the (mostly hidden) section of the fuel tank which nests with the spare tire well, so just waiting for the glue to dry:

 

9113.jpg

 

 

 



#218 Ford guy

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Posted 01 September 2013 - 07:45 PM

Casey, your work is very admirable. Outstanding build. I can't wait to see more! Your attention to detail is unbelievable! 

 

 

 

Custom Mike, excellent job on your interior, the leather work is remarkable! The bed floor is so good looking, and those carriage bolts, WOW, great job! 



#219 Custom Mike

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Posted 02 September 2013 - 04:48 PM

Thanks Roy, but compared to Casey, I've got a looong way to go. Casey, just how did you get that done without the glue seeping between the vents? That is some beautiful work my friend, bravo!



#220 Casey

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 05:28 PM

how did you get that done without the glue seeping between the vents? That is some beautiful work my friend, bravo!

 

Thanks. I used a micro tip on the superglue tube and applied it sparingly, "kicking" it with accelerator at each corner as I went along. After two rounds of putty and coat of primer I can see the p/e grille sits a tiny bit too low, so now I'll have to sand a few of the "slots" to make them all even. We'll see how it looks after some more leveling/sanding.

 

I primed the trunk section, so that's ready to be permanently attached to the rest of the chassis. Not really loving the box-stock upper shock brace, though... :unsure: