The Straight Six community build
Posted 24 July 2012 - 01:14 PM
Heres some of my previous sixes.
ForPly - Plymouth 6 in '31 Ford
Drift Rod - Early Skyline in '32 3 window
Plymus Chryst - '41 Plymouth with Slant 6
Thunderchild - Scratchbuilt DOHC head on blown Chevy 6 in '57 T-Bird
Eraly Skyline in Nissan Vannette
GTR 2000 Skyline
And this on is under construction with a 6 from an AMT '60 Pick up. More pics of this soon.
Posted 25 July 2012 - 10:59 PM
Considering that this engine came in this car in 1:1 scale it's a tight fit lengthwise. Of course i'm assuming AMT & Monogram were both using the same ruler...
Posted 26 July 2012 - 12:58 AM
I've noticed that too- you go to fit a six into a car that came with the factory with one, and for some reason it just doesn't fit like it should in 1:1.
Posted 26 July 2012 - 01:03 AM
Posted 31 July 2012 - 05:55 PM
Sign me up with a Hornet.
Posted 01 August 2012 - 01:09 PM
Consider yourself signed up.
I like what I'm seeing here.
Sign me up with a Hornet.
Posted 01 August 2012 - 01:42 PM
The hood got the same treatment, but still needs a little redefining of the character line and a bit more sanding:
Posted 04 August 2012 - 04:04 PM
1) I test fit the hood on the body to make sure I hadn't sanded the edges too much or unevenly (which I did):
2) I removed the molded in/on torsion bar anchors and parking brake cables/brake lines, and cleaned up frame rail drain holes:
3) I started to remove the B-body shifter boss and the molded on linkage, then shortened the manual transmission, though now I'm thinking I may have done so in error. I'm not sure if A-230 (or whatever was used) 3-speeds came in a shorter A-body length like the A-833 4-speeds did:
Posted 08 August 2012 - 11:21 PM
Good work on that Bonnet.
I've got most of the interior together and got some paint on the body.
Posted 13 August 2012 - 08:54 AM
I removed all the molded on torsion bar bits, used some styrene tube for new forward torsion bar sockets, and cut some thin steel rod I picked up at Hobby Lobby for torsion bars. Luckily, it was within .003" of the diameter needed for Slant Six bars, so I lucked out. I will add some torsion bar anchor detail to the backside of the trans crossmember and fill the holes on the front face, but where it's at now:
I forsee a Scale Hardware order in my near future. It would be nice to be able to use four scale bolts to hold the K-frame in place when needed, then be able to remove it when it comes time to finish everything.
I also stared boring out the wheel back centers, so I can use only the rim in combination with the drum brake backing plates and drums I picked up from Scenes Unlimited.
Posted 14 August 2012 - 09:32 AM
Posted 14 August 2012 - 05:28 PM
Posted 18 August 2012 - 09:16 AM
Casey, you're gone buddy, but you already know this, right? Incredible detail work, this is going to be one beautiful Dart when it's finished!
Now onto my part, AMT's '50 Chevy Pickup. First up is replacing the plastic bed with one made of Basswood!
I started out by cutting a piece of basswood out to match the kit piece, tabs and all...
Then I cut the piece of plastic that goes at the tailgate end off the kit piece and mocked it up with the wooden floor...
I decided to drill out the "rolled" edges of the bed sides while I was at it, looks much better than a flat piece of plastic, doesn't it?
The bed floor mocked-up with the rest of the bed, so far, so good...
Next, more Basswood was cut into strips for the top half of the bed, along with some straps from some c-channel plastic I got from somewhere years ago.
Edited by Custom Mike, 05 July 2014 - 05:08 PM.
Posted 18 August 2012 - 09:17 AM
Having decided I wanted a real wood bed, and seeing Casey's incredible detail work, I decided I wanted more detail! So I drilled out the fender bolts on the inside of the bed, and will replace them with straight pins!
Neatly drilled holes, what have I gotten myself into this time???
A quick mock-up to see how they'll look when they're in place...
Trust me, they'll be straight once they're clipped and glued down!
I scribed planks into the underside of the bed floor, this part will be visible from the bottom of the model...
The underside of the floor and the planks for the inside of the bed, all stained and ready for some glue!
At this point, I've added some angle styrene to the sides of the bed to hold the new wooden floor in place, and started gluing the strips to the bed floor...
And all the strips glued down. The straps are held in place without any glue, the strips are so tight that glue wasn't needed!
Edited by Custom Mike, 05 July 2014 - 05:14 PM.
Posted 18 August 2012 - 09:21 AM
Almost done with the bed....
The straps have been trimmed up, and we're looking good so far!
Now I need to remove the attachment points from the kit bed, and attach them to the new wood bed, this looks like a job for my Trumpeter Panel Scriber!
I slowly started cutting the attachments loose...
Both attachments free and cleaned up for installation on the wooden bed...
Mocked-up on the wooden bed, along with another piece of the c-channel styrene for the stiffener between the attachments
Here's the forward attachment epoxied in place in it's new home...
The stiffener epoxied down...
And the rear attachment epoxied down. The marks on the edges of the bed were slightly off, so I used the frame to line them up in the proper locations.
The straps were painted with Alclad Aluminum, I thought I had some Chrome, but noooo...
And a bit of touch-up painting of the attachment points and stiffener, the new wooden bed is now completed!
Edited by Custom Mike, 05 July 2014 - 05:21 PM.
Posted 18 August 2012 - 02:50 PM
what have I gotten myself into this time???
A lot more work.