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1959 Chevy Impala-----Update! Some TEDIOUS Seat work! 2/16/14


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#81 H.A.K

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 05:14 PM

Wow that's some work.

#82 MrObsessive

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 12:15 AM

Hay bill are those hinges the same as the 57 chevy?

 

Yes, they should be. GM was still using goose-neck type hinges for the front doors in the full size models through the '66 model year. Through the early '70's there were some exceptions (Eldorado, Toronado, and Riviera come to mind), but the B/C bodied cars changed to the swivel type hinges starting in '67 IIRC.



#83 58 Impala

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 01:05 AM

Hi Bill,Thanks for posting your video on soldering, I'm getting ready to take a stab at doing some scratch building involving brass. I've done larger types of soldering (stained glass), what wattage soldering iron do you use? Also what type/mixture of solder. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Edited by 58 Impala, 05 December 2012 - 01:08 AM.


#84 Doobie

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 01:06 AM

Thanks for getting back to me bill .I cant wait for your next update ! Is your 59 going to be a stock or custom biuld any ideas as what color your going with yet?



#85 MrObsessive

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 12:03 PM

Hi Bill,Thanks for posting your video on soldering, I'm getting ready to take a stab at doing some scratch building involving brass. I've done larger types of soldering (stained glass), what wattage soldering iron do you use? Also what type/mixture of solder. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Tom, I use a "Metcal" unit for soldering. Not sure of the wattage as the soldering tip has an internal thermometer which keeps it from overheating. I do know the tip is a 600º one as it's for lead based solder. The solder is regular 'ol silver bearing .015 Radio Shack solder with a flux core. I do like to use the paste flux for rework, but you should wash off any residue after you solder as it can eat away into the metal long after soldering.

 

Here's a pic of the type of unit I use............I picked up a used one on eBay for $150 as new units can run anywhere from $300-$700! :o The tips alone can run $15-$20 each.......

 

Pb250005-vi.jpg

Thanks for getting back to me bill .I cant wait for your next update ! Is your 59 going to be a stock or custom biuld any ideas as what color your going with yet?

 

David, I plan on the car being stone stock in Roman Red, in fact-------here's the car I want to replicate........

 

KGrHqVo0EwDlhyoeBP6hlQ2ig60_3-vi.jpg

KGrHqVgsEOcNM5fBP6hlcYHYw60_3-vi.jpg

T2eC16dsE9swmvp8BP6hlfwym60_3-vi.jpg

 

You can also see more clearly why I was fussy about that roofline! ;)

 

I want my car however to be a fuelie (last year for that), and I may put fender skirts on it as those really compliment the car's sleek lines.



#86 Roadracer

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 12:12 PM

Good subject choice Bill

#87 58 Impala

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 02:33 PM

Thanks for the soldering info Bill.

#88 Doobie

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 03:02 PM

Bill I have a converiable 59 that i would like to do as a hard top which kit can i rob the roof from ?



#89 MrObsessive

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 11:30 PM

Bill I have a converiable 59 that i would like to do as a hard top which kit can i rob the roof from ?

 

I would take it from the Revell '60 Impala if your kit is the Revell/Monogram '59 convertible. To my eyes the '60 Impala roof has a more accurate shape than the '59 hardtop they did. You'll need that little chrome roof vent however as that was exclusive to '59. ;)



#90 wagoneer

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 09:26 AM

Bill, I'm really enjoying watching your build. You've inspired me to have a go at doors and hinges too so I picked up some K&S brass from my local model shop (they specialise in flying aircraft but do have some cool stuff too!) so I can have a go. My reworking of a Olds 442 is stretching my ability already, now I've got to try some Geary Greatness to push it even further.

 

Kelly



#91 blunc

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 10:44 AM

Bill, I'm really enjoying watching your build. You've inspired me to have a go at doors and hinges too so I picked up some K&S brass from my local model shop (they specialise in flying aircraft but do have some cool stuff too!) so I can have a go. My reworking of a Olds 442 is stretching my ability already, now I've got to try some Geary Greatness to push it even further.

 

Kelly

>Kelly, I applaud your ambition, Bill has supplied excellent work logs and tutorials. Remembering to check your gaps should ensure the doors will not stick open or closed after you paint it (assuming you don't have 32 coats of clear...), good luck on expanding your skills.



#92 Ron Hamilton

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 03:35 PM

 

Tom, I use a "Metcal" unit for soldering. Not sure of the wattage as the soldering tip has an internal thermometer which keeps it from overheating. I do know the tip is a 600º one as it's for lead based solder. The solder is regular 'ol silver bearing .015 Radio Shack solder with a flux core. I do like to use the paste flux for rework, but you should wash off any residue after you solder as it can eat away into the metal long after soldering.

 

Here's a pic of the type of unit I use............I picked up a used one on eBay for $150 as new units can run anywhere from $300-$700! :o The tips alone can run $15-$20 each.......

 

Pb250005-vi.jpg

 

David, I plan on the car being stone stock in Roman Red, in fact-------here's the car I want to replicate........

 

KGrHqVo0EwDlhyoeBP6hlQ2ig60_3-vi.jpg

KGrHqVgsEOcNM5fBP6hlcYHYw60_3-vi.jpg

T2eC16dsE9swmvp8BP6hlfwym60_3-vi.jpg

 

You can also see more clearly why I was fussy about that roofline! ;)

 

I want my car however to be a fuelie (last year for that), and I may put fender skirts on it as those really compliment the car's sleek lines.

A man after my heart!!!!!



#93 MrObsessive

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 07:46 AM

Sorry for the super long delay in updates folks! Sundays are really the only days I have time to compose something readable--------and also to upload pics as during the week and Saturdays, I'm quite occupied. ;) The past couple months, I've had other things going on, and model building time has taken somewhat of a back seat.

 

I have been making some progress on the Chevy, but recently had to redo the door hinges as they just didn't seem right to me. This is what happens when a span of years go by doing this type of building..........you forget the little things that used to come to you so easily!

 

Just the same, I got the arc of the hinges now the way I want them, and the doors clear the body the way they should for the time being. Of course, the proof is in the pudding when it comes time after paint and polishing, to see how well they'll work. OK------on to some pics...............

 

It was finally time to get the passenger door jamb completed and make the support for the doors.........the biggest hassle is to try to get both sides to appear symmetrical, and then as I mentioned to get the opposite side hinges to work as well as the other side.

 

Pa284457-vi.jpgPa284455-vi.jpg

 

In another post, you noticed that the vent window was still attached to the roof. I was reluctant to cut away the vent too soon until I had the dogleg structure built underneath the windshield pillar, as you can see this is quite thin. When I was in Lexington, KY------I stopped by a local Hobbytown, and picked up Trumpeter's scriber as someone had recommended one. This made quick work of cutting away the vent as I was able to now do so without much fear of the windshield post breaking due to the lack of structure.

 

Since I now had the door jamb on the door itself now done with some minor tweaking to come later.........I now wanted to test fit the door into the opening. As you can see the door fits quite well, and there shouldn't be a problem with paint clearance down the road as the 3x5 card method was used here as well.

 

Pc094464-vi.jpg

Pc094465-vi.jpg

 

Looks like I may tweak the very upper corner of the door to match the contour a bit better.............the entire body will get a very thorough going over before I move on to the engine, chassis and interior.

 

The redone hinges are now in their places on the support. In the pic here, I'm just test fitting for clearance and to make sure there's no binding of the hinges as they're opening and closing.

 

Pc094466-vi.jpg

 

I made a small crack in the door jamb as this was the main side I had rework the hinges a second time. This is a small fix that can be done quickly before too long.

 

A couple more photos to check the fit and clearance of the door................

 

Pc094473-vi.jpg

Pc094475-vi.jpg

 

Hmmmm............I may add some .005 plastic to tighten up the section a scooch............we'll see........

 

Also notice that I angle filed the trailing edge of the front fender trim so the door doesn't bind against this as well. Not a severe angle, but just enough so the BMF doesn't scrape away each time the door is opened and closed.

 

Stay tuned.......there's more! ;)

 

 

 

 



#94 Doobie

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 08:10 AM

still tuned in lol :D



still tuned in lol :D



#95 Custom Mike

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 08:24 AM

Great work so far Bill, I could watch you build all day! And you'll love that Trumpeter panel scriber, it's the best tool I've ever bought!



#96 MrObsessive

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 08:53 AM

Now I'm moving on to what I think is the hardest part of doing the bodywork on the '59. The trunk!

 

Cutting it away was tough enough, but now making the underside stamping, as well as hinging it were going to be a challenge. Unlike the '60, the '59 has no tulip panel-----so one has to be somewhat creative in making a support so that the hinges will have something to hang on. I usually use the underside of the tulip panel when making my hinge supports, but since the '59 Chevy has no such panel (I think just the 2 door sedans and hardtops lack this), I had to try a different approach.

 

One of the first things I wanted to do was to make the underside stamping that cars have to their decklids. This is more for support of the trunk itself as decklids are nothing more than a sheet metal stamping. If the structure wasn't there, in no time at all the decklid would warp out of shape due to all the slamming and closing it would go through in a period of time. I wasn't going to copy every little dip and dive of the structure, but to have a reasonable facsimile of something underneath when the trunk is open.

 

I started by making a crude tracing on some .015 sheet plastic using a 1:1 pic as a reference............

 

Pb114458-vi.jpg

Pb114459-vi.jpg

 

I had to account for the  "gullwing" shape of the trunk...........Then it was a matter of spending time to cut each corner shape and radius to suit a close resemblance of the structure as seen here.............

 

Pc094460-vi.jpg

 

Now I tried to use as little liquid cement as possible in attaching the whole structure to the trunklid. I didn't want a situation where so much cement is used, that you could begin to see the structure itself on the topside of the trunklid as the cement is still reacting to the plastic. That would be a NIGHTMARE after it's all painted and done! I'll do a little more sanding and refining before the whole thing is painted down the road. I have yet to add the hinge retainers as I wanted to see how the whole thing will turn out.

 

This little center piece here will have to be recreated as it was lost when I was cutting the trunk out. A PE medallion will eventually go here as well.

 

Pc094463-vi.jpg

 

Here are the trunk hinges I soldered together recently. While not the final shape seen here (the radii is a bit too large), these are similar to the door hinges in shape.

 

Pc094472-vi.jpg

 

Here's the decklid as it sits on the body at the moment..........

 

Pc094478-vi.jpg

 

And here's the revised structure for the hinges. I changed this a bit because down the road, I'm considering doing roll down rear windows. Due to the geometry of the window shape, they need to scoot back a bit and then the leading edge of the glass rolls down into the well. The previous brace that I made would have interfered with this movement, so I changed it to this shape. I'm going to add a touch of super glue at the joints to toughen things up a bit.

 

Pc094480-vi.jpg

pc094482-vi.jpg

 

The blocks that are attached to the brace is what the hinges will hang on. I may extend these out just a bit so that the reduced radius of the hinge, will have no trouble with binding in its movement.

 

Well that's it for the moment.........hopefully I can get more done this week and have more to show later on! Thanks for following this thread guys! :D

 



#97 Doobie

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 09:12 AM

well worth the staying tuned in for that is coming along nicly ! I think that i will try to do the inside structure of the trunk on my next biuld . Cant wait for the next update B)



#98 charlie8575

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 11:37 AM

Wow.

 

This takes a lot of work...and with the engineering headaches, costs me my desire to make opening panels! But, I'll gladly watch you do it.

 

Charlie Larkin



#99 TooOld

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 12:24 PM

I'm always impressed with your skills Bill .  The door jambs and the fit of the door and trunk are amazing !   I'm learning a heck of a lot following this build .  Thanks for sharing your ideas with us .

BOB .



#100 mikemodeler

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 04:03 PM

Wow.

 

This takes a lot of work...and with the engineering headaches, costs me my desire to make opening panels! But, I'll gladly watch you do it.

 

Charlie Larkin

 

I too, am in awe of your skills and precise details that go into creating opening panels. Love watching but have no desire to attempt such a task, I have enough trouble finishing snap together models!