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49 ford street rod finished! 7.17.13


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#1 streetmachine11

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Posted 18 August 2012 - 06:42 PM

started this project today. got this kit from my club for 2 bucks. it was a paint bomb lol but after the dip in purple power here is what i had started with....

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got as far as opening up the doors and trunk and thinned down all the parts. also made the door jambs and trunk ledge.

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and a quick mock up. note: it just setting together :)

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still need to make the jamb on the door side and the hinges for the doors and trunk. also gonna atempt latches and strikers for the hood, doors and trunk. overall made some pretty decent progress today :lol:

comments and ideas welcome!
thanks for looking

jason

Edited by streetmachine11, 17 July 2013 - 09:12 AM.


#2 jcbigpaw

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Posted 18 August 2012 - 06:58 PM

Looking good. Keep up the good work

#3 slusher

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Posted 18 August 2012 - 07:22 PM

Cool project, real nice start. l am a big fan of the 49 ford...

#4 Jantrix

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Posted 18 August 2012 - 07:58 PM

I'm also building this one. If you want to get the rear down you are going to have to add blocks between the springs and the axle, or else it has a wicked rake. This is the unmodified stance.

Posted Image

Edited by Jantrix, 18 August 2012 - 07:59 PM.


#5 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 01:59 AM

That's looking fantastic, keep it going, please.

#6 cobraman

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 02:21 AM

Looking very nice. Built some of these when I was a youngster. I think it may be time for another.

#7 jdcar32

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 02:31 AM

Heres a shot of a '49 I did with the doors carved open. The kit parts are pretty thin making for easier door opening. Like the stance on yours, and I like the green steelies too.



Posted Image

Edited by jdcar32, 19 August 2012 - 02:32 AM.


#8 1930fordpickup

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 03:06 AM

Nice work so far!

#9 62rebel

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 08:27 AM

kudos for opening the doors but that's only half of the job. the doors are roughly the same thickness almost from the door handle down, not the full width of the space between the tub and body. i've done one with opening doors and trunk and you can separate the sides of the tub from the floor, fill the gap and get more scale appearing doors with not much more effort than you have so far.
opening the doors on kits with "tub" interiors usually results in problems with door/quarter thickness due to the draft needed for molding the tub.
the AMT '49 is one of the kits i've built many, MANY times... love it. easy to work with and modify.

#10 Dr. Cranky

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 09:12 AM

Man, open doors on this model look sweet.

#11 Deathgoblin

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 09:39 AM

Great job so far! Keep it up. I liked the rake on the test fits. :)

#12 streetmachine11

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 01:46 PM

kudos for opening the doors but that's only half of the job. the doors are roughly the same thickness almost from the door handle down, not the full width of the space between the tub and body. i've done one with opening doors and trunk and you can separate the sides of the tub from the floor, fill the gap and get more scale appearing doors with not much more effort than you have so far.
opening the doors on kits with "tub" interiors usually results in problems with door/quarter thickness due to the draft needed for molding the tub.
the AMT '49 is one of the kits i've built many, MANY times... love it. easy to work with and modify.


if you widen the interior tub to make the door jambs more realistic, did you have to widen the rear seat to match the interior tub?
thanks for the tip!

jason

#13 streetmachine11

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 01:54 PM

thanks for all the feedback everyone!
i have got a few small things done today. mostly been working on the trunk getting the inner bracing, latch and striker done.

rob, thanks for the tip on the rear axle. doing that may get me the look im going for. yours looks killer with the shaved parts man :D

jhon, i really like the looks of your ride. verry clean and well done. also like that door latch :)

#14 Guest_Darkside Customs_*

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 03:40 PM

Wow I'm diggin this!

#15 62rebel

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 04:17 PM

you have to add small wedges to the rear seat bottom edge. replace the front seat with a reworked Lindberg '53 Ford unit, or make side panels that widen the base of the seat from the kit. the actual 1:1 seat tapers inward towards the top, instead of widening as the kit seat does. there's virtually no inner structure in the trunk, so closing the top of the fuel tank and adding a trunk mat will do the trick there. making accurate '49-'50 trunk hinges will be difficult, as they're mounted on the surface. i built mine as a '51 so internal hinges work out. sealing the floorpan to the body once you're done will duplicate the way the actual body looks on the frame, oddly enough...
i built mine with the floorpan in place and cut the transmission crossmember loose so i could install the engine after the body was painted. i've found that i should add two small pieces under the rear quarters to represent the rear body braces from working on my 1:1 shoebox.... actually, if i wanted to go nuts i could add dozens of little details that AMT left out in '62.....

#16 Brian_B

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Posted 19 August 2012 - 04:22 PM

Hello,

I have one of these kits ordered. I have not touched a model since I was a kid. I will be watching your build with interest.

62rebel..do you have a link to pics of your build?

Edited by Brian_B, 19 August 2012 - 04:23 PM.


#17 streetmachine11

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 09:17 AM

you have to add small wedges to the rear seat bottom edge. replace the front seat with a reworked Lindberg '53 Ford unit, or make side panels that widen the base of the seat from the kit. the actual 1:1 seat tapers inward towards the top, instead of widening as the kit seat does. there's virtually no inner structure in the trunk, so closing the top of the fuel tank and adding a trunk mat will do the trick there. making accurate '49-'50 trunk hinges will be difficult, as they're mounted on the surface. i built mine as a '51 so internal hinges work out. sealing the floorpan to the body once you're done will duplicate the way the actual body looks on the frame, oddly enough...
i built mine with the floorpan in place and cut the transmission crossmember loose so i could install the engine after the body was painted. i've found that i should add two small pieces under the rear quarters to represent the rear body braces from working on my 1:1 shoebox.... actually, if i wanted to go nuts i could add dozens of little details that AMT left out in '62.....



62rebel, thanks for all the information on the 49. i am going to wedge the tub and get the jambs thinned down. i think i might use some bucket seats for this rod and i have plated over the gas tank and spare tire holder as the spare will be moved to a differnt area. the hinges on the trunk are shaved so ill make a more traditional hinge.

jason

#18 streetmachine11

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Posted 20 August 2012 - 09:40 AM

hello everyone got a small update...

got the inner structure done...
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the new floor pan

Posted Image

the trunk hinges

Posted Image



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and the latch..

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thanks for looking

comments and ideas welcome!

jason

#19 vekasiini

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 12:21 AM

Nice!

#20 rmvw guy

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 02:07 AM

You are making this look too easy! I also love this kit, having opened the doors and trunk on one I know it's not an easy task but, fun. The end result on yours will be killer, I can tell by the amount of detail so far. The inner structure on the trunk lid looks spot on. I'll be watching!