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AMT 32 Ford "Deuce" 3/4/14 Wheels painted and refining body


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#81 charlie8575

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 07:28 PM

The red intake runners and valve covers look very good, Mike. Nice detail for this.

Charlie Larkin

#82 Foxer

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 03:24 AM

Looks great so far, are you going to chop it when you finish the rest of the body mods?


There will be no chop. :)



Thanks everyone for all the comments.

#83 slusher

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Posted 14 November 2012 - 03:26 AM

Awsume looking build so far, going to be killer!!!!!!!!!

#84 Foxer

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 06:17 AM

Continuing on with engine detailing the plug boots were next. I drilled some .022" holes into.08" square rod for pins into the engine and for the plug wires. Both holes were drilled int the rod before cutting and the engine pin glued before cutting off the rod. I only lost one unit! The cam covers are all drilled to receive the pins.
The 1:1 engine photo shows what I need to replicate. It looks like I'll have to make an oil filler cap and decal

Posted Image
Posted Image

Now that I'm on the ignition I can't find the distributor from the SHO engine. It's just a box with some ribbing as it models the cover normally used and the wires all go in one side in a group. If it doesn't show up soon I'll just make one.

Edited by Foxer, 15 November 2012 - 06:20 AM.


#85 Foxer

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 05:35 AM

More on the plug wires. All shaped, painted and mounted on engine. Of course, one wire detached from the boot and might be tough putting back in the off center hole. Oh well, normal for the course. These were sure tiny!
I never found the ignition box so I made a crude one from plastic pieces. It'll do as it will be tucked into the fire wall and not that visible I expect.

Posted Image
Posted Image

#86 crazyrichard

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Posted 17 November 2012 - 11:02 PM

thats really cool :)

#87 Foxer

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 01:33 PM

It's almost a year since I've posted anything on this build, or actually DONE anything! It's been ready for paint all that time and I got to thinking about it. I'm using the Tamiya TS-11 Maroon but I thought highlighting the body "moldings"  (for lack of a proper name) would give some interest and break up the vast swath of one color. This pencil sketch is how I envisioned it with the moldings just a darker shade of the same color. The actual colors are way off in this.

sketchDSC_1320_zps2e01ccd2.jpg

 

My thought was to use a white primer and then flat black over the moldings. I crudely masked another body to test this on. The black leaked thru the door lines but it didn't matter for this test. I ended up putting down 4 coats but in the end, the shading from the black isn't very noticeable. Maybe only 3 coats will do it. At least the sharp demarcation between the white and black wasn't too noticeable. The color is much darker than the photo shows and is looks very good in person.

41whiteDSC_1312_zps2328a10c.jpg

41bodyDSC_1316_zpsfc204ed3.jpg

 

I'd be interested in any thoughts on this ... necessary, forget it, or methods to do it?


Edited by Foxer, 30 October 2013 - 01:35 PM.


#88 charlie8575

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 07:41 PM

It might be wise to do the following.

 

1. Spray the body in one color.

2. VERY thoroughly mask off the surrounding areas.

3. Decant a small amount of the maroon and a small amount of gloss black (enough to noticeably darken it) into a solvent-resistant jar and mix them, and then either airbrush or hand-brush the molding.

 

The idea is intriguing.

 

Charlie Larkin



#89 Foxer

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 05:03 AM

That might be the best way, Charlie, and won't depend on how many main coats I put on that will tend to cover the black too much.

 

I took a shot outside and the true color shows better ... darn cat hairs are magnets!  This Tamiya TS-ll went on very smooth out of the can. Hopefully I can get it as well on the real body!

 

outsideDSC_1326_zpsed8b8fd6.jpg


Edited by Foxer, 31 October 2013 - 05:05 AM.


#90 charlie8575

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 07:12 AM

That is a nice color. I need to find something I can use that on. Perhaps one of my capital-C classics. Wouldn't look bad on a mid-30s Ford, either, as Coach Maroon was pretty close to that.

 

Charlie Larkin



#91 Foxer

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Posted 31 October 2013 - 09:39 AM

That is a nice color. I need to find something I can use that on. Perhaps one of my capital-C classics. Wouldn't look bad on a mid-30s Ford, either, as Coach Maroon was pretty close to that.

 

Charlie Larkin

It is darker than this photo now that I look ... not a good ad for the paint. It photographs light and probably just the camera lightening it to neutral gray.



#92 slusher

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 05:15 AM

Great color. Have you thought obot foiling the molding??



#93 bobthehobbyguy

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 09:19 AM

Just saw this post. Really nice concept. Like your color choice. Looking forward to seeing this one done.
Keep up the good work.

bobthehobbyguy

#94 Foxer

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 12:19 PM

Great color. Have you thought obot foiling the molding??

 

That would be really tough for me, my foiling hands aren't great anymore and there's not a great edge along the molding. The BMF  would give a nice separation as I wanted though.

 

Think I'm going to just do black on the molding as I tried above and try to keep the paint coats down.



#95 Modlbldr

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 12:20 PM

Nice work so far. I remember when you were working on this last.
That TS-11 looks like it would be the perfect color for my 40 Ford I'm working on.

Later-

#96 charlie8575

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Posted 02 November 2013 - 10:47 AM

The black doesn't look bad, Mike, but if that color is actually a bit darker than it photographs, may I suggest a lighter shade?

 

I went back through and re-checked our discussions on color scheme. This might look nice, too: paint that molding in a non-metallic grey, perhaps plain old Testors gloss gray, maybe with a touch of black to darken it a hair, and then an interior in roughly the same shade of gray overall with a slightly darker gray accent.

 

If you do decide to do black, it might be wise to balance the dark colors with a light interior color, such as pastel gray or perhaps even white with red accents (I'd use Testors flat red for those, with their metallic in the square bottles (not the Ruby Red Metal-Flake) for any parts you want to represent metal.

 

Another good option would be my original suggestion of a cream stripe with a cream and brown two-tone interior, or solid cream or light tan.

 

Charlie Larkin



#97 Foxer

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Posted 27 November 2013 - 10:21 AM

I had another paint here that was lighter and had a very fine metallic and I liked how well it went on in previous tests, sooooo ...  Duplicolor Autumn Maple Metallic in a spray can

 

redDSC_1353_zps5ae00b96.jpg

redDSC_1356_zps635a02fd.jpg

redDSC_1357_zpse79e5d6c.jpg

redDSC_1362_zps99b49a37.jpg

redDSC_1364_zps5b3d828f.jpg

redDSC_1365_zps2edae3d3.jpg

 

It looks good but still doesn't have the ZING .. IT.  Suggestions are always appreciated.

 

The big question I have for all is what do I paint the wheels? ALCLAD chrome them again?  Everyone here has wheel opinions so here's your chance!!  :)


Edited by Foxer, 27 November 2013 - 10:23 AM.


#98 jbwelda

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Posted 27 November 2013 - 07:49 PM

that tracknose sure looks great on there and the paint is nice with good scale metallic particles, from the photos anyway. maybe if you want more zing...a coat of Tamiya clear red over the top?

 

great piece of engineering there!



#99 Danno

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Posted 27 November 2013 - 08:00 PM

Nice.



#100 Speedfreak

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Posted 28 November 2013 - 07:32 AM

Black Chrome on the wheels. I don't normally like black chrome all that much, but, here I think it would work. Be worth testing anyway.


Edited by Speedfreak, 28 November 2013 - 07:32 AM.