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'66 Shelby GT350


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#1 BluePopsicle

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 06:05 AM

Moved my original thread over here because I've sort of moved away from the topic I had intended. This thread will just be my progress and any tips or suggestions you all might have.

I've come across an issue today where I was wet sanding my intercoat clear with P1000 in order to achieve more "tooth" for the rally stripes, but ended up sanding straight through to the silver base. IMHO, Testors Spray Lacquer is not worth the can it came in. =( Anyone have a good ultra shiny and yet, sandable clearcoat they can suggest?

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#2 Mercman

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 11:24 AM

Here's one I just did using Testor's Clear. I didn't use the rallye stripes though.

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#3 eizzle

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 11:36 AM

If you've got an airbrush urethane clear is wonderful stuff, but you really need a respirator when you spray it, it's pretty strong stuff!

#4 BluePopsicle

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 10:37 PM

Here's one I just did using Testor's Clear. I didn't use the rallye stripes though.

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You have really made a beautiful car. The large metallic flake looks awesome and I love the way you got the side scoops to sit right. I ended up putting putty on mine and molding it to the rest of the body. I'm really looking for a glass like shine as Andy Lesiak did on his Flathead Vicky (as shown below). His original post can be found HERE.

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#5 BluePopsicle

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 10:40 PM

If you've got an airbrush urethane clear is wonderful stuff, but you really need a respirator when you spray it, it's pretty strong stuff!

I used to spray urethane clear when I was a body tech some years ago. I remember it smells like candy. :rolleyes: I also remember that it can be some pretty pricey stuff. I'll have to call Sherwinn-Williams to get some prices.

Oh and BTW: I've resorted to stripping it and starting over from scratch. =/ Should be fun.

Edited by BluePopsicle, 17 September 2012 - 10:44 PM.


#6 eizzle

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 10:54 AM

The stuff I get isn't a high end name brand, but I can't justify spending that much for a model that sits on a shelf. I spend about $20-22 for a quart of clear and a pint of hardener, as you can imagine it lasts quite awhile. I don't mind the smell, but it's pretty toxic, from what I've read it does some nasty stuff to your lungs...
If you have a carquest near you, check there, that's where I get my paint.

Edited by eizzle, 18 September 2012 - 10:56 AM.


#7 BluePopsicle

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 07:21 PM

I did a price check at SW today before work and came to $37 for a quart of clear and hardener. If I do my measurements perfectly; I should be able to get about 40 cars cleared using 1 - 1 oz. bottle for each. That provides an average cost $0.93 per car.

Edit: Was falling asleep and forgot to finish the average cost.

Edited by BluePopsicle, 19 September 2012 - 04:25 AM.


#8 martinfan5

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 07:33 PM

I have question
how many coats of clear did you put down before you started sanding?

I use both Testor one coat wet lacquer, and model master ultra clear coat, both are very good clear coats

I started using duplicolor clear coat, it works great, doent have a great shine, but its great for wetsanding and then polishing.

If any time you are going to be sanding the clear coat, you need to have to more then just one or two wet coats, four is a nice number, but you still have to be careful when sanding.

I am not a pro at painting, just what I have learned and been told myself

If you want a glass like shine, you either need to be really good at using an air brush, or wetsand then polish

#9 BluePopsicle

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 04:27 AM

I sprayed 4 coats of Testers clear and sanded with p1000. Even that grit cut through it in no time.

Edit: Maybe the particular stuff I used is garbage... who knows. It says 1261 Glosscote on the lid.

Edited by BluePopsicle, 19 September 2012 - 04:30 AM.


#10 sak

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 01:24 PM

Using an airbrush is no garantee that the finish will turn out. Wet coats are what gives you that smooth final coat no? Using an airbrush to do a wetcoat is doing pretty much doing the same thing the can is doing. And I cannot speak for everyone else but I have never painted anything airbrush or can without something landing in the paint or getting some kind of slight orange peel. I have made many mistakes and one I have learned from is making sure each coat of paint is smooth. Meaning make sure the primer is smooth, and then the color layers. I bring mine outside and sit on a chair and wetsand it, drying it off and holding it up to the sun until those little high spots are gone.
.

#11 BluePopsicle

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 06:50 PM

The car has been sitting in Greased Lightning for almost 48 hours now; so as soon as I get it cleaned off and smoothed out, I'll try repainting it. I think I will go with the clear that I priced at SW. If airbrush is anything like a spray gun; the clear needs to be put on wet. You can achieve a beautiful shine with just one wet coat, but wet sanding at the end will be a pain. The only reason to have several coats of clear is to make sure there is enough layers to sand out the orange peel. My problem wasn't the orange peel, it was that there was no shine. After my four coat application, I tried to wet sand it and my 1000 grit ate right through it.

I've been thinking about it and I'm starting to wonder if it's because I didn't let the enamel cure long enough. Maybe the paint was absorbing the clear? I'm not sure, but I do know...I'm not going to give up on it just yet. =p I've got a 4 day weekend this week, so I'm gonna get crackin' on it again.

#12 bryan_m

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 06:54 PM

i wouldnt advise doing one "wet" coat....... several light coats are better. at least one light coat, that gives the rest of it something to adhere to....i usually do 3 light coats, and the last coat i pretty much "pour" it on.....LOL

cheers
bryan

#13 BluePopsicle

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 06:58 PM

i wouldnt advise doing one "wet" coat....... several light coats are better. at least one light coat, that gives the rest of it something to adhere to....i usually do 3 light coats, and the last coat i pretty much "pour" it on.....LOL

cheers
bryan


Oh no.. LOL I didn't mean that!! No...either way I go, I'll still put no less then 3...probably 4.

Edit: I was just saying that you can get a glass-like shine from just one, but then you'd have crazy orange peel and no room to wet sand.

Edited by BluePopsicle, 19 September 2012 - 07:00 PM.


#14 bryan_m

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Posted 19 September 2012 - 07:00 PM

aaah ok, cool.

cheers
bryan

#15 BluePopsicle

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Posted 22 September 2012 - 02:16 PM

Got the Shelby all stripped, puttied, sanded and should be back in primer tomorrow.

#16 BluePopsicle

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Posted 23 September 2012 - 06:39 AM

Messing around with engine possibilities and I stole the blower and manifold from another kit (AMT 1953 Ford Flipnose). Should I leave the Shelby box stock or add the blower?


Box stock kit
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Different views with blower.
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#17 eizzle

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Posted 23 September 2012 - 08:37 AM

I don't know that I would vote for box stock, but I don't think I would do the blower, just my two cents, I'm not a fan of the huge blower sticking threw the hood.

#18 BluePopsicle

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Posted 27 September 2012 - 04:02 AM

OK, so I learned a valuable lesson recently. I put waaaaay too much primer on the car and now I'm finding myself sanding off the little details. GRR Oh well, I'll use this model to get back in the swing of things and learn from those mistakes. Hopefully my next one ('57 Corvette) will be much better.

Windshield vents now missing detail.
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Mock window vents sanded flat.
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body lines above the door nearly sanded away.
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Edited by BluePopsicle, 27 September 2012 - 07:31 AM.


#19 BluePopsicle

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 05:19 AM

A couple progress pics...


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More to come later.

#20 eizzle

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Posted 30 September 2012 - 01:12 PM

Looking really good!