'66 Shelby GT350
Posted 17 September 2012 - 06:05 AM
I've come across an issue today where I was wet sanding my intercoat clear with P1000 in order to achieve more "tooth" for the rally stripes, but ended up sanding straight through to the silver base. IMHO, Testors Spray Lacquer is not worth the can it came in. =( Anyone have a good ultra shiny and yet, sandable clearcoat they can suggest?
Posted 17 September 2012 - 11:24 AM
Posted 17 September 2012 - 11:36 AM
Posted 17 September 2012 - 10:37 PM
You have really made a beautiful car. The large metallic flake looks awesome and I love the way you got the side scoops to sit right. I ended up putting putty on mine and molding it to the rest of the body. I'm really looking for a glass like shine as Andy Lesiak did on his Flathead Vicky (as shown below). His original post can be found HERE.
Here's one I just did using Testor's Clear. I didn't use the rallye stripes though.
Posted 17 September 2012 - 10:40 PM
I used to spray urethane clear when I was a body tech some years ago. I remember it smells like candy. I also remember that it can be some pretty pricey stuff. I'll have to call Sherwinn-Williams to get some prices.
If you've got an airbrush urethane clear is wonderful stuff, but you really need a respirator when you spray it, it's pretty strong stuff!
Oh and BTW: I've resorted to stripping it and starting over from scratch. =/ Should be fun.
Edited by BluePopsicle, 17 September 2012 - 10:44 PM.
Posted 18 September 2012 - 10:54 AM
If you have a carquest near you, check there, that's where I get my paint.
Edited by eizzle, 18 September 2012 - 10:56 AM.
Posted 18 September 2012 - 07:21 PM
Edit: Was falling asleep and forgot to finish the average cost.
Edited by BluePopsicle, 19 September 2012 - 04:25 AM.
Posted 18 September 2012 - 07:33 PM
how many coats of clear did you put down before you started sanding?
I use both Testor one coat wet lacquer, and model master ultra clear coat, both are very good clear coats
I started using duplicolor clear coat, it works great, doent have a great shine, but its great for wetsanding and then polishing.
If any time you are going to be sanding the clear coat, you need to have to more then just one or two wet coats, four is a nice number, but you still have to be careful when sanding.
I am not a pro at painting, just what I have learned and been told myself
If you want a glass like shine, you either need to be really good at using an air brush, or wetsand then polish
Posted 19 September 2012 - 04:27 AM
Edit: Maybe the particular stuff I used is garbage... who knows. It says 1261 Glosscote on the lid.
Edited by BluePopsicle, 19 September 2012 - 04:30 AM.
Posted 19 September 2012 - 01:24 PM
Posted 19 September 2012 - 06:50 PM
I've been thinking about it and I'm starting to wonder if it's because I didn't let the enamel cure long enough. Maybe the paint was absorbing the clear? I'm not sure, but I do know...I'm not going to give up on it just yet. =p I've got a 4 day weekend this week, so I'm gonna get crackin' on it again.
Posted 19 September 2012 - 06:54 PM
Posted 19 September 2012 - 06:58 PM
i wouldnt advise doing one "wet" coat....... several light coats are better. at least one light coat, that gives the rest of it something to adhere to....i usually do 3 light coats, and the last coat i pretty much "pour" it on.....LOL
Oh no.. LOL I didn't mean that!! No...either way I go, I'll still put no less then 3...probably 4.
Edit: I was just saying that you can get a glass-like shine from just one, but then you'd have crazy orange peel and no room to wet sand.
Edited by BluePopsicle, 19 September 2012 - 07:00 PM.
Posted 22 September 2012 - 02:16 PM
Posted 23 September 2012 - 06:39 AM
Box stock kit
Different views with blower.
Posted 23 September 2012 - 08:37 AM
Posted 27 September 2012 - 04:02 AM
Windshield vents now missing detail.
Mock window vents sanded flat.
body lines above the door nearly sanded away.
Edited by BluePopsicle, 27 September 2012 - 07:31 AM.