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25 Ford Model-T Tow Truck - update: 05/11/13

Model T tow truck scratch built AMT 25 T

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#141 Randy D

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 05:44 PM

Hi Alyn,     Seat is looking good,  what was your technique for the wear?   Excellent chassis!!!

 

 

                                        randy



#142 Alyn

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 06:35 PM

Hi Alyn,     Seat is looking good,  what was your technique for the wear?   Excellent chassis!!!

 

 

                                        randy

 

Thanks, Randy.

 

The seat's just a basic application of two colors, followed up with some artificial wear. After primer, I painted the seat a base color of Tamiya XF-15 to represent raw leather. This was followed with 2 or 3 coats of acrylic clear and them matte black. I used a straight pin to scratch through the black to simulate cracks in the leather, then sanded a few wear spots with some 400 grit. Like I said, the cracks look overdone, so I need to work on them somemore, or start over.

 

Thanks for your interest.



#143 vintagedragfan

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Posted 11 March 2013 - 04:44 PM

I think the seat looks perfect Alyn, looks pretty real to me. its great to see a little final assy. every thing looks top notch, awesome man



#144 Alyn

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 07:16 AM

I think the seat looks perfect Alyn, looks pretty real to me. its great to see a little final assy. every thing looks top notch, awesome man

 

Thank you, Mr Bill.

 

I touched up the bottom cushion with some streaks of black here and there, then topped that with some dull coat. I'll probably lightly sand it again and add some oil from my fingers to get a semi-gloss patina. It is nice to move into the paint phase. Scratch building is fun, but you never know how well the scratch built parts are gonna do their job until the paint starts laying down.

 

Thanks for stopping by



#145 Tom Geiger

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 07:24 AM

slow but sure progress. I've been practicing with some scrap sprue on a technique to get a wood grain effect on the wheels. Not ready for prime time yet. My wife says the practice bits looks like a pretzel. ;)

 

 

 

 

I have a tutorial done by Irvin Arter on wood graining.  I have it as a PDF so you (or anyone else) who wants to PM me their email addy, I'll be happy to email it to ya!

 

MVC009F-vi.jpg

 

IMG_3016-vi.jpg

 

My results using Irvin's technique.


Edited by Tom Geiger, 12 March 2013 - 07:27 AM.


#146 southpier

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 01:30 PM

i like those wheels. could you share their origin?



#147 Alyn

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 04:21 PM

 

I have a tutorial done by Irvin Arter on wood graining.  I have it as a PDF so you (or anyone else) who wants to PM me their email addy, I'll be happy to email it to ya!

 

MVC009F-vi.jpg

 

Tom, your results look great. My pretzel sticks are definitely missing the darker shades shown on your work. I added a layer of semi-gloss dull coat on mine and it seemed to hide much of the color variations. Certainly a step backwards.

 

I'd love to get the tutorial. I'll send you my email.

 

thanks !



#148 Alyn

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 04:55 PM

Here's the results of about a four day process on the wheels. I use artist oils, so planning for drying time is important.

 

I painted the wheels with some Krylon Meringue and let it set for a day. Then oils were used for the wood grain, starting with brushing on a coat of yellow ochre. Even though some quick drying medium was mixed in, this was left to dry for a day as well. Once the underlying colors were dry some blobs of raw sienna, burnt sienna, raw umber and burnt umber were smeared on a pallet. These were randomly applied in dabs and streaks by brush, followed by further streaking with a thin dry brush to try and add a little wood grain effect.

 

After another day and a half of drying time the spokes were covered in semi-gloss dull coat; also by brush. Add another day of drying time This morning I masked around the hub and shot some flat black. This evening, I masked off the spokes and the hub and shot the green.

 

You can see the color of the underlying base coat on the three that haven't been painted green yet. I wish they all turned out like the one on the left, but this was too much work for do-overs.

 

IMG_6850b.jpg?psid=1

 

Here's the green one with the tire mounted. I still plan on dabbing some dark brown on some of the lighter areas where the base coat shows through, add valve stems, and hand paint the rim clamps either silver or black.

 

IMG_6868b.jpg?psid=1

 

I had some spare time while watching all the paint dry, so I scratch built a screw driver. It'll end up in a tool box later on.

 

I also toned down the leather cracking on the seat cushion. Here's how it looks so far with some further weathering still to come.

 

IMG_6858b.jpg?psid=1


Edited by Alyn, 16 March 2013 - 05:02 PM.


#149 vintagedragfan

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 02:24 AM

the wheels look fantastic Alyn ol buddy! maybe you could add just a tiny bit of weathering to the wheels around the center and outer spokes to help blend the light spots, just a thought, I think silver rim clamps would really set the green off, man don't lose that screwdriver!! awesome work as usual!!



#150 David G.

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 02:38 AM

Fantastic work!  Love the added detail.

 

David G.



#151 Alyn

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 03:43 AM

the wheels look fantastic Alyn ol buddy! maybe you could add just a tiny bit of weathering to the wheels around the center and outer spokes to help blend the light spots, just a thought, I think silver rim clamps would really set the green off, man don't lose that screwdriver!! awesome work as usual!!

 

Thanks, Bill. I have done some touch up on the spokes and they look much better. I finished paintng the green on the other wheels and then dabbed some Tamiya brown acrylic at the base of the spokes and around the hubs. They look pretty good now. I also added the valve stems. After the final touch up, the wheels have all kinds of paint on them. There's a layer of Plasticoat primer, Krylon enamel, artists oils, Model Masters clear lacquer, Tamiya synthetic lacquer, and Tamiya water born acrylic. DId I miss any? :mellow:

 

I still plan on painting the clamps (Floquil) black with either silver or gold bolts, and also dry brush the hubs and apply some weathering powders.

 

David, thanks for the compliment. I focus on the details, so your comments mean alot.



#152 Randy D

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Posted 20 March 2013 - 06:11 PM

Hi Alyn,       I do believe that you may have forgotten to use some day-glow  water paints :D  :D   but you did hit the major ones !

                       I think your wheels are looking good,   seats are right on !!!

 

 

                               Randy



#153 Alyn

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 05:00 PM

Hi Alyn,       I do believe that you may have forgotten to use some day-glow  water paints :D  :D   but you did hit the major ones !

                       I think your wheels are looking good,   seats are right on !!!

 

 

                               Randy

 

Actually, I think that was the problem, Randy. Those light spots looked day-glow to me :wacko:

 

Here they are after all paint work is done. I wish I would have painted the clamps silver instead of black; they'd show up better. They will still get some dust with a bit of chalk powder, but they'll look pretty much like this

 

IMG_6879b.jpg?psid=1

 

IMG_6883b.jpg?psid=1

 

IMG_6886b.jpg?psid=1



#154 vintagedragfan

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 01:24 AM

very nice progress Alyn Ol buddy, me likes!!  lets keep moving along



#155 Dogfish_7

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 02:01 AM

We are only limited by our imaginations .... and boy you have no limitations! Awesome work!!



#156 Alyn

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Posted 06 April 2013 - 10:39 AM

Here's some of the final shots of the chassis before I start mounting the fenders and body.  The steering column and related parts are only mocked up. In order to make the steering operational, the column has to be run up through the steering box from the bottom up. Then the throttle and spark controls and steering wheel are added. This will have to be done after the body is mounted, so these parts aren't painted or glued/soldered at this point. Same goes for the hand brake and drivers side brake rod. Otherwise, the chassis is pretty much done. After the body is mounted, a lot of this detail will never be seen again.

 

IMG_6926b.jpg?psid=1

 

Full working steering; when the front wheels are turned, the steering wheel turns in the appropriate direction. Brake rod is not yet mounted on this side.

 

IMG_6917b.jpg?psid=1

 

I took the shot below to mimic an online photo that I had used to get some good chassis detail. You can see that the rear axle tubes could stand to be narrower, but otherwise I'm pretty happy with the chassis. Now on to the body.

 

IMG_6947b.jpg?psid=1

 

thanks for looking in



#157 crazyrichard

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Posted 06 April 2013 - 11:13 AM

stunning !!! :wub:



#158 southpier

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Posted 06 April 2013 - 11:34 AM

.... a lot of this detail will never be seen again.

 

 

 

 

but it will live on in the Forum!

 

 

great job


Edited by southpier, 06 April 2013 - 11:35 AM.


#159 daveblev

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Posted 06 April 2013 - 01:48 PM

simply...AMAZING! what i've been doing is tinkering with a toy. what you are doing is true to life automotive craftsmanship in small scale! i am impressed!

dave



#160 vintagedragfan

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Posted 07 April 2013 - 05:35 AM

I got to see this chassis at the local KC Slammers meeting, the details are stunning! it is a shame to cover them up, nothing has been over looked! Alyn seems to capture every detail! beautiful fabricating all around Alyn!!