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Pro Street Community Build Project


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#61 1320wayne

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 06:30 PM

Looks like your making some really nice progress.



#62 1320wayne

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Posted 07 January 2013 - 06:33 PM

you know Wayne, i could use a pro stock hood for this build and your name came up

whats the story, you casting them?

 

Here's the link to my album showing all current available scoops that I cast in resin. If you see something send me a pm and we can take care of it offline.

 

http://public.fotki....-resins/scoops/



#63 plowboy

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 04:22 AM

Nice work Mike! I used the same backhalf, but I made my cuts a little different. I wish I had thought of your idea to add the lip with the bumper brackets onto the rear of it. That's a good one! I can't remember if my rear seat wouldn't work with the tubs or if I just lazied out and decided to get rid of it. I don't think it would work without a lot of mods done to it. I do remember that it was a pain getting the package shelf located in the right position. I haven't touched mine since I got the stance adjusted on it. I'm thinking about ditching the two small scoops on the hood and replacing them with a Hemi Dart type hood scoop. I am going to ditch the two fours intake and go with a single Dominator or maybe a smaller carb.



#64 diymirage

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 12:55 PM

no pics on my back half but i have started cutting AND i know it will fit with the back seat and package shelf just fine

 

no pics until the rear end comes un but i have allready stared cutting the stock frame allready :)

 

Wayne, those scoops look sweet but i have a few different leads on these so ill pursuit those first



#65 tubbs

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 04:21 AM

GREAT GOOGELY-MOOGELY!!! how did i EVER miss this!! maybe cause i dont visit this part of the forum.... oh well, i am here now. there are some really nice builds going on..... some i would like to do but since 90% of my builds are pro street i will get something different. like another, i may need to get the OK on this. its one i have started and if it is too far, Wayne, not a problem, i have a list as long as my arm i can pick from.

 

this is the 70 super bee, i am changing it into a coronet 500, typical lowering of the suspension, channeled the body over the frame to get it lower. let me know Wayne. like i said, i have plenty to pick from, just looking for that push to get back building again for the new year.

Attached Files


Edited by tubbs, 09 January 2013 - 04:24 AM.


#66 1320wayne

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 01:56 PM

Al you still have a ways to go to create a finished model so your good to go with that one.



#67 Bartster

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 02:08 PM

Lotsa groovy cars being built here! I'm gonna keep my eye on this one !

#68 Custom Mike

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 06:11 PM

OK, I'm back at it, we'll bring it up to speed real quick tonight. Once the chassis was painted, I decided I needed to run a fuel line, why i don't think of this before I paint is beyond me. I carefully drilled some holes in the chassis to run the fuel line, you'll have to imagine a beautifully detailed, absolutely perfect fuel cell in the trunk, which does not open!

 
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Edited by Custom Mike, 05 May 2014 - 05:49 PM.


#69 Custom Mike

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 06:13 PM

And now we're on to the engine! I drilled the head for plug wires, drilled the carbs and fuel pump for fuel lines, and made a fuel rail to get the fuel line up to each carb. It may not be accurate, but it looks cool! I also painted the freeze plugs with some Metalizer Brass, and picked out other parts with Metalizer Aluminum Plate.

 
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#70 Custom Mike

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 06:14 PM

And on to the part that took the longest, making a fitting for the fuel rail. I put a piece of sprue in the Dremel, and thinned it down to almost the diameter of the aluminum tube I used for the fuel rail. I carefully drilled a hole down through the center, then I made a crude hex-head shape with some careful sanding, cut a sliver of it off, and stuck it on a piece of 26 Gauge craft wire. I attached it to the fuel pump, and once the epoxy cures, I'll put a few more bends in it and attach the fuel rail to it!

 
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#71 Custom Mike

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 06:16 PM

Now here's where a big issue popped up. Sam sent some resin valve covers he bought along with this kit, and they were horrible. Out of the three he sent, one had a huge void in it on the corner, another had a bad pinhole, and the third had most of the flange missing, along with the fact if was badly warped into an arc. I did my best, then the flange broke off of the second one, and I gave up and put 'em back in the bag. A quick search through my parts box yielded the same engine he sent (Apparently Sam robbed it from an AMT Challenger Convertible kit), so I stole it's valve covers and smoothed 'em out in preparation for the decals that came with the crappy resin ones. Problem #2, they fell apart as soon as they hit the water. So the valve covers were painted with Metalizer Titanium and buffed out. Whoever you got those valve covers from, lose their address, their stuff sucks!

 
Nice pinhole, huh? 
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Look at the missing flange on the two on the left, and that pretty void on the right hand one...
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And this guy charges for these? What a rip-off!
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The old AMT Valve covers, cleaned up and smoothed out.
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Edited by Custom Mike, 05 May 2014 - 05:50 PM.


#72 Custom Mike

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 06:18 PM

Next, I got the fuel rail attached, and fuel line all bent up nice and pretty, then attached the freshly painted and buffed valve covers...

 
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And a shot of the chassis with the rear end installed, The rear end was painted Metalizer Steel, the shocks were painted Chrysler Engine Red, and the coils were painted with Metalizer Aluminum Plate.
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#73 Custom Mike

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Posted 09 January 2013 - 06:20 PM

And this brings the build up to it's current state, since I'm out of Primer/Sealer, I can't do much else at the moment. I got my fuel lines run from the fuel rail up to the carbs, which was really fun, you should all try it! Then I got my belt/pulley assembly painted, and looked at the white metal alternator that Sam sent with...it's a GM alternator! That just won't cut it, so it went back in the bag it came from, and the alternator from the '70 Coronet Pro Street kit was snatched and detail painted. Once I get back on this, I'll add some photo-etched brackets to the alternator and possibly the power steering pump. I have one that will fit, but there's not a whole lot of room around the power steering pump to attach a bracket, so I'm not sure if I'll add one, we'll see!

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Edited by Custom Mike, 05 May 2014 - 05:53 PM.


#74 diymirage

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 01:51 AM

got a little bit of work done on the Fastlane

 

i found an oilpan that will work with it in the partsbox so no need to scractch build one

this is about where the engine will sit in the frame

 

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i have not yet fully decided if i want to keep that blower hat or go with a smoother, smaller one, but for now it will stay

 

apart from some small detail items the engine is done



#75 tubbs

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 05:25 AM

i have not yet fully decided if i want to keep that blower hat or go with a smoother, smaller one, but for now it will stay

 

apart from some small detail items the engine is done

if i may, i tend to lean towards 2 carbs and the oval 2 carb air cleaner found in the 427 kits for the street. i like your build, its looking great.



#76 vc273

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 06:14 AM

Hi wayne will definitley be in on this one. Have a few in mind that i have been mocking up so hopefully one of these will be okay. Just let me know if any dont meet the criteria. Also are we building them as show cars hidden wiring and the like or street cars? Cheers

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Edited by vc273, 19 January 2013 - 06:05 AM.


#77 plowboy

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 06:21 AM

if i may, i tend to lean towards 2 carbs and the oval 2 carb air cleaner found in the 427 kits for the street. i like your build, its looking great.

 

I agree with Al. Your engine needs to be street "friendly", meaning it needs to be an engine that can be driven on a regular/semi regular basis. If you want to keep the blower, get rid of the injectors and replace them with carburetors. You also need to add a water pump for cooling and an alternator for charging your battery/batteries. Otherwise, it's only going to be good for a quarter mile at a time.  



#78 tubbs

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 09:05 AM

 

I agree with Al. Your engine needs to be street "friendly", meaning it needs to be an engine that can be driven on a regular/semi regular basis. If you want to keep the blower, get rid of the injectors and replace them with carburetors. You also need to add a water pump for cooling and an alternator for charging your battery/batteries. Otherwise, it's only going to be good for a quarter mile at a time.  

 

thanks Roger, i missed that. so, where does the alternator hook up, you say? try this site.....

 

http://www.bigalstoy...com/cabinet.htm

 

this site is a MUST for anyone building a blower motor, hope to get my 1:1 blower fron these guys.....

 

the link should take you to a page with complete blowers, the pully sitting in front of the blower is the lower pulley, there is a groove in the back of the pulley that connects the crank to the water pump by a belt. i will usually use the stock pulleys in the normal spot and then glue the blower pulley to the crank pulley. you may have to extend the neck of the blower a little, but you can do that with some sort of chrome round spru from your parts box. someone may have a better way..... anyone?



#79 plowboy

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 10:02 AM

 

thanks Roger, i missed that. so, where does the alternator hook up, you say? try this site.....

 

http://www.bigalstoy...com/cabinet.htm

 

this site is a MUST for anyone building a blower motor, hope to get my 1:1 blower fron these guys.....

 

the link should take you to a page with complete blowers, the pully sitting in front of the blower is the lower pulley, there is a groove in the back of the pulley that connects the crank to the water pump by a belt. i will usually use the stock pulleys in the normal spot and then glue the blower pulley to the crank pulley. you may have to extend the neck of the blower a little, but you can do that with some sort of chrome round spru from your parts box. someone may have a better way..... anyone?

 

Easy. The groove behind the blower pulley you mentioned will run to the water pump and the alternator. Also, you'll notice that the crank pulleys in the link/photos have two grooves in the rear. One is for the water pump and alternator. The other is for the power steering pump.


Edited by plowboy, 10 January 2013 - 10:06 AM.


#80 1320wayne

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Posted 10 January 2013 - 02:46 PM

Steve, you obviously have quite a few pro street subjects to choose from and are worthy of jumping in here. However, remember the 25% rule in regards to whichever subject you choose to go with. Or multiple builds for that matter. If you have something mocked up but haven't gone much further than that then you are good to go. Anything that already has a significant amount of paint and/or engine detailing, such as wiring and plumbing is probably too far along.


Edited by 1320wayne, 10 January 2013 - 05:12 PM.