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Member Since 01 Nov 2009
Offline Last Active Today, 06:38 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: 1/8 scale woody

Yesterday, 09:16 AM

Harry, here's my lower radiator view. You can see that the crank snout just peeks into the rectangular slot shown above. Not much contact.


Also seen here is a very helpful and strong new attachment for the radiator. I enlarged the screw holes in the grille shell to .080. Then made 'studs' out of 2mm threaded rod and nuts. Nut at the top, a drop of CA and into the holes. Then a drop of epoxy to secure them in the shell. Carve a little clearance for the nuts in the plastic bottom corners of the rad. The studs come through the crossmember  and the constant removal and replacement is a plug in - no more wiggly, stripped skinny Pocher screws. You can see here the nut and washer from the bottom which snugs it up. Very sturdy. Getting the firewall and grille shell sturdy is very important. When you make the brace rod between them, it hold the positions of these vital parts solid for body and hood attachment.


If you didn't drill the firewall for the Koo-recommended 8mm  down from top rod location already, I can show you an accurate attachment using a clevis , at the top edge of the firewall.


if you want....


In Topic: 1/8 scale woody

02 July 2015 - 03:40 PM

I got fairly close on my interpretation, but you make better ball links on the rods than I do. Here's the general idea;


Here's the worst thing they did; the wire shield run. It was like this, with the relay box lowered. It actually exits the upper box lower on the side but I missed that. Got the rest right. The structure was an aluminum casting. The whole firewall front edge is kit wrong with the brass strips the location where the body actually begins. Good luck with that but I know Haddock's done it. Fill the kit holes and remember the foot pedal had a lever coming through for the oiling cannister:



In Topic: 1/8 scale woody

02 July 2015 - 03:21 PM

Hey C... what did you use as reference for your firewall details?

Egon had sent me some fantastic 1:1 shots of a '29. Tomorrow, I'll round them up and buzz you.

In Topic: 1/8 scale woody

02 July 2015 - 01:42 PM

Yes--- because they bring us closer together... :lol:

In Topic: 1/8 scale woody

02 July 2015 - 01:06 PM

Respectfully, you're correct as far as you go. But your solution brings up another hitch.


Moving the rad forward will mean shortening the front tray. You could do that or eliminate it.


Far simpler is the Koo idea of drilling the lower rad for the crank snout clearance. Taking a slight shave off the fan pulley boss on the block gets that off the rad. Simpler by far than adding shim to the hoods.


Don't think you want to move the firewall forward or the cowl; many worms in that can.


EDIT: just found mine: