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Doctordarryl

Member Since 14 Mar 2011
Offline Last Active Jul 07 2014 11:47 PM
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Topics I've Started

Latest Build: Tony Nancy's 1963 22JR AA/Dragster

03 July 2014 - 03:31 AM

I wanted to build this kit for many years. I could not finish it when I was a child because I lacked the skills and patience to build it. It is a well engineered kit but is fiddly with a ton of small parts. My skills have improved somewhat from when I first tried to build this kit so I gave it go. I am still stuck in the 60's dragster theme and already started another one (Swamp Rat VIb - the one that broke the 200mph barrier at Island Dragway in 1964).

 

Here is a detailed description of this build.

 

Kit: Revell Tony Nancy 22JR double kit #H1224:200, 1/25th scale

 

Builder: Darryl W. Peters

 

Body: The body panels were cleaned up of very light mold lines. The body was wet sanded with a 4000-grit polishing cloth, washed, and dried in a dehydrator at 110° F overnight. The injector scoop was assembled with IPS Weld-On #4. The scoop and body panels were sprayed with two wet coats of Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer and dried in a dehydrator overnight. The inside of the body panels were sprayed with Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal and dried in a dehydrator for 24 hours. The inside of the body panels were masked with 3M Blue Painter’s Tape then the body and scoop were airbrushed with two wet coats of Tamiya TS-76 Mica Silver, cut 1:1 with Dupli-Color lacquer thinner, using an Aztek A470 airbrush at 35psi with a 1mm (yellow) nozzle. The painted parts were dried in a dehydrator for 24 hours. Dzus button fasteners on the body sides and cowl panel were simulated with photoetched large screw heads from Model Car Garage. The kit decals were cut out and placed into warm water before applying them to the body panels. They were positioned and blotted with a piece of clean dry chamois and the body panels were then placed back into the dehydrator for 24 hours. The body panels were gently washed with warm water and dish soap to remove any decal glue. They were rinsed with warm water and placed back into the dehydrator for several hours to dry. They were then airbrushed with two wet coats of Testor’s Wet Look Gloss Clear, cut 1:1 with Dupli-Color lacquer thinner. Before the second clear coat flashed off, the paint jar was filled with straight Dupli-Color lacquer thinner and a wet coat of thinner was airbrushed over the parts to level the clear and yield a high gloss. The cleared parts were placed back into the dehydrator and allowed to dry for 48 hours. The body panels were lightly wet sanded with an 8000-grit polishing cloth followed by rubbing out with Novus Plastic Polish #2. The panels were polished with Turtle Wax Clear Coat and given a final clean with Novus Plastic Polish # 1. Two gauge pods from Detail Master were added under the rear bodywork in the cockpit. The body panels were assembled to the chassis using super glue. The fire wall was drilled for a hydraulic throttle line and glued to the frame. The windshield was dipped in Future and after drying was attached to the body using Future.

 

Frame: The front axel, radius rods, tie rod, and steering arm were stripped of chrome using Purple Power cleaner, rinsed, and dried. The front axel parts were assembled using IPS Weld-On #4 and redone by airbrushing Alclad II Chrome over Testor’s Gloss Black. The shaft of the steering arm was replaced with 1mm OD stainless steel tubing. The rear axel was assembled with Weld On #4 and squeezed to fill the joint. Once dry, the rear end seams were sanded smooth and the rear end was sprayed with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminum followed by Testor’s Dull Coat. The rear end cover was sprayed with Model Master Stainless Steel Metallizer. The frame was assembled using IPS Weld On #4 while mounted on a Micro Mark steel plate with magnets holding the chassis sides to square up the chassis. After the frame was assembled and dried, it was sprayed with two wet coats of Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer and then dried in a dehydrator for 24 hours. It was then airbrushed with two wet coats of Tamiya TS-14 Black and placed back into the dehydrator overnight. The throttle, steering wheel, and clutch pedals were sprayed with Tamiya TS-30 Silver Leaf. The steering wheel rim was painted with Tamiya NATO Black and the kill switch was painted with Tamiya Flat Red. The seat was assembled and sprayed with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black. The seat belt decal was from Colorado Decals (DCC24007) with Simpson logos from Scale Auto Details. The front wire wheels were machined aluminum and PE parts from Machined Aluminum Specialties. Parts box motorcycle front tires were used. The kit rear wheels were stripped of chrome and redone by airbrushing Alclad II Chrome over Model Master Classic Black. The contact patch of the kit slicks was sanded with a coarse sanding stick. Valve stems were made from fine black insulated wire. Machined aluminum fittings from Detail Master were used on the main fuel lines. The parachute pack was sprayed with Tamiya TS-6 Matt Black. A cord was added along with a “Remove Before Flight” banner from an old IPMS Nationals decal set.

 

Engine: The kit’s Plymouth 426 Wedge engine was assembled using IPS Weld-On #4. The assembled block and heads were sprayed with two wet coats of Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer. After drying for 24 hours, the block and heads were sprayed with Tamiya TS-49 Bright Red. The freeze plugs were simulated with Model Master Brass Metallizer. All chrome engine parts were stripped of kit chrome using Purple Power cleaner. The oil pan, valve covers, exhaust headers, assembled blower, and timing cover were airbrushed with Alclad II Chrome over Model Master Classic Black. The Enderle Barn Door injector was assembled and drilled for fuel lines and a throttle before it was sprayed with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminum. The intake manifold was sprayed with Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal. The blower snout was drilled to accept a machined aluminum pulley from MAS. The blower side panels were painted with Model Master Aluminum Metallizer. The timing chain cover was drilled to accept an MAS blower drive pulley and a resin cast Enderle fuel pump from SAD. The fuel pump was sprayed with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black and the bolt heads were painted with Model Master Aluminum Metallizer. An idler pulley bracket was made from aluminum flashing and an idler pulley from MAS was added. The blower belt was from MAS and part number decals were from SAD. The magneto was scratch built from telescoping pieces of K&S aluminum tubing which were assembled with super glue and polished with a piece of 8000-grit polishing cloth. A tan colored cap from a Morgan Automotive Details magneto was used with a magneto top decal from SAD. The bellhousing and transmission were sprayed with Model Master Stainless Steel Metallizer. A hydraulic throttle actuator was scratch built from thin wall 1mm stainless steel tubing, drilled 0.040 inch hexagonal Plastruct Styrene rod, and a strip of printer’s aluminum sheet with black insulated wire as the hydraulic line. A photoetched throttle linkage from MAS was attached to the injector rod and linked to the hydraulic throttle with thin wire. The shop rag stuffed into the scoop opening was made from a piece of cotton Tee shirt painted with Tamiya Flat Red.

 

Figure: The figure was a modified Tamiya Rally Mechanic. It was assembled with IPS Weld-On #4. The seams were scrapped with a fresh #11 Exacto blade. It was thgen sprayed with two wet coats of Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer. After drying in a dehydrator for 12 hours, the body and cap were sprayed with Tamiya TS-15 Blue. The boots were painted with Model Master Aluminum Metallizer. The hands and head were painted with Testor’s Flesh. The painted parts were dried in a dehydrator for 12 hours. A Simpson logo was added to the front right of the fire suit. The figure was then assembled and sprayed with a wet coat of Testor’s Dull Cote clear. The feet were pined to attach the figure to the base.

 

Attached File  22jr aad right side view.jpg   101.38KB   1 downloads

 

Attached File  22jraad left side view.jpg   101.22KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  22jr aad right rear 34 view.jpg   107.8KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  22jr aad left front 34 view.jpg   110.37KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  22jr aad left rear 34 view.jpg   99.57KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  22jr aad right front 34 view.jpg   112.87KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  22jr aad cockpit.jpg   100.8KB   0 downloads

 


Latest Build: Mickey Thompson's 4-Cylinder Tempest Dragster

08 June 2014 - 08:05 AM

Those who know me know I like odd subjects. Mickey Thompson's Tempest slant four powered dragster certainly qualifies as an odd subject. When the Pontiac Tempest was first released, the base four cylinder was literally 1/2 of a Pontiac 326 V8. The left cylinder banks were not cast , only the right bank and crank case. This was not unique for GM. The original base 4-cylinder in the Chevy II was 1/2 of a 283 V8. I have no idea how GM thought this was feasible. Indeed, in very short order, both slant 4s were replaced by inline 4s (the Pontiac Iron Duke).

 

I have wanted to build the Revell Attempt 1 kit in it's dragster form since the kit first came out. However, pictures of the dragster version are not plentiful. The car was at the NHRA Museum but with the salt flat bodywork. I would like to build another kit as the salt flat version but have been concentrating lately on 60s dragsters. The kit has a reasonably good representation of a Dragmaster chassis to go along with the Chassi Research chassis in the Monogram Slingster kit.

 

I found some pictures in the book "Slingshot Dragsters of the 60s Photo Archive" by Lou Hart.  Here is the picture on p10 that got me to finally build the kit. On p13 is another picture of the dragster on a different day (notice polished wheels and different water inlet on the head). On p11 is a picture of a Mickey Thompson dragster with a big block Pontiac engine that could be easily made from this kit as well (that's a project for another day).

 

Attached File  left side.jpg   796.89KB   2 downloads

 

Attached File  right side.jpg   142.73KB   0 downloads

 

I chose to build a model like the image on p10 with the unpolished wheels (I like that look).

 

Attached File  left side view.jpg   78.65KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  3_4 right rear view.jpg   100.17KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  3_4 left front view.jpg   127.22KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  3_4 left rear view.jpg   106.68KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  3_4 right front view.jpg   124.74KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  right side view.jpg   94.87KB   0 downloads

 


Third Monogram Slingster Build: A 60s Style A Modified Roadster

18 May 2014 - 06:02 AM

See my post in Under Glass for my latest build of the Monogram Slingster - a 60s style A/MR.


Third Monogram Slingster Build: A 60s Style A Modified Roadster

18 May 2014 - 05:53 AM

Here are some pics of my third Monogram Slingster build - the Keep on Truckin 60s style A/MR. The resin body was from Altered States and modified slightly. I used HOK Tangelo Pearl for the body. The engine block and frame were airbrushed with Tamiya TS-14 Gloss Black. Decals were custom made by Scale Auto Details (namely me). I lived in southern California in the 70s and liked Robert Crumb's artwork, especially Keep on Truckin' art so I decided to use that for this build since the body had a pick up bed.

 

Attached File  keep on trucking.jpg   138.38KB   1 downloads

 

I used AMT parts pack slicks and rear wheels. The rear wheels were detailed and each wheel consists of 14 pieces. They were redone with Alclad II Chrome over Testor's Gloss Black. The front wheels were PE items from Machined Aluminum Specialties (MAS) with parts box tires. The kit Hemi engine was used. The blower pulleys were items from Arrowhead Accessories and the belt was from MAS. The magneto was from Morgan Automotive Details with a top cap decal from Scale Auto Details as were the front bar bell weights and the blower belt part number decals. I used the kit zoomie headers and modified them to be more protypical. I made Coors beer cans from Evergreen Styrene tube and sheet with decals from Scale Auto Details to cover the header ends. The red shop rag stuffed in the injector scoop was made from a 1 cm square from a cotton tee shirt and painted Tamiya Flad Red. The engine is wired and plumbed. All kit chrome was removed by soaking in Purple Power cleaner and then redone with Alclad II Chrome over Testor's Gloss Black. The body was cleared with HOK clear after the decals were applied.

 

Attached File  truckin 3-4 front view small.jpg   77.51KB   1 downloads

 

Attached File  truckin 3-4 rear view small.jpg   69.07KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  truckin side view small.jpg   74.34KB   1 downloads

 

I love this kit and have a few more ideas for additional builds.


Say Hello at NNL East

02 April 2014 - 11:15 AM

All - please look me up at NNL East. I will have a vendor table and will be well stocked with decals and resin parts. I am an authorized show dealer for Pro-Tech for the northeast this year and am excited about how Charlie's products complement those from Scale Auto Details. I will be well stocked with Pro-Tech parts. I'll also have some models (new and old) to sell. Don't forget to check out my Fotki site:

 

http://public.fotki....caleautodetails

 

to see items I offer and make a list to give me at the show. I'll be well stocked with the latest drag decals that are selling extraordinarily well on an unnamed auction site. I was hoping to have my web site up before NNL East but it is unlikely that will happen as the day job keeps interfering. Funny how that works. One day soon I will be able to spend the day on my passion and not my profession.

 

See you at the show.

 

Attached File  shirt logo.jpg   68.75KB   0 downloads