Jump to content


Jdurg

Member Since 10 Feb 2012
Offline Last Active Dec 25 2012 07:39 PM
-----

Topics I've Started

1/12 Scale 1967 Corvette Coupe (Monogram) (COMPLETE!)

26 August 2012 - 04:33 PM

When working on my last kit (a 1996 Grand Sport Convertible), I had gotten a bunch of photo-etch frets including wire looms, seat belt latches/buckles, and the set of photo-etch parts for the 1/12 Scale 1967 kit made by Revell/Monogram. Last week, I finally got the kit I've been hoping for a while in the 1/12 Scale 1967 Corvette coupe.

I plan to take a very long time with this kit and be more patient than I have ever been. I'll take the chrome pieces from the kit, de-chrome them and remove the lacquer base before cutting open holes where needed (for the side pipes) and removing imperfections. After getting everything just how I want it, I'll bag them up and ship them out to Chrome Tech USA for re-chroming so that I won't have to worry about the attachment points, chrome scraped from smoothing out the detachment points from the fret, etc. I know this will take a month or more to get done and get back to me, but it will be worth it. (And by the time they come back, my 60 day separation from the job I will have been laid off from will have ended and I'll be back to a 40 hour work week again).

Just wanted to start up a thread here in the Big Boyz section to document my progress. Thus far, I have only done some preliminary work on the photo-etch fret getting the emblems painted properly. I also painted the back of the thin plastic sheet that they printed out the gauges on so that when the front side of them are observed they look absolutely stunning. Once I get the Vette in the mail, I'll take a look at the interior dashboard first and sand away the back where the gauges are so that the film can be placed there after sealing it to some very thing white styrene for support.

For modifications to the kit, I plan on doing very little. The 63-67 coupes have doors which would be a nightmare to fully open up so I do not plan on doing that. All I'm going to do is cut open the headlights (God I love my jeweler's saw. It cuts fast, and more importantly, very straight) and build some light bezels to use for the headlights. Getting them to rotate will be pretty simple to do with some straight metal tubing.

For paint, I'm going with Goodwood Green Metallic. I got this from the automotive touch-up site I got my Admiral Blue Metallic paint from when I built the '96 Grand Sport. I picked up two 12 ounce spray cans of the base color, two 12 ounce cans of the gray primer, and two 12 ounce cans of their incredible clear coat. All their paints dry super quick, super smooth, and incredibly hard. The price of all the paint was quite expensive ($75.00), but a good run at the poker table this past week has paid for it, and even if I didn't have a good night at the table, I'd have gone and bought the paint anyway as it is great stuff. For the interior, I'm going to go to AutoZone and pick up a can of the interior fabric/vinyl flat black paint from Rust-o-leum or Duplicor. Whichever brand they have. I'll also test out the paint on the sprue once I've primed it with the gray primer I have coming in the mail. This way I'll know if it will harm the plastic.

For the hood stripe, I was worried that I'd need to go and cut out precise decals from the white decal film I have as I read many places which stated that a Goodwood Green Metallic with black interior 1967 Corvette used a white stripe. Doing further searching, I saw a 1963-1967 Corvette Restoration guide preview on Google. The preview contained the color options available for the Vette and showed that cars which came from the factory in Goodwood Green Metallic with a black interior had a black stripe on the hood. Only the cars with a black interior with white seats had the white stripe. Since mine is fully black, I can use the black decal which came with the kit which shouldn't be a problem at all. I'll need to test out the clear coat I'm getting (and for which I have a little bit left in a can I have) on one of the other stripe decals that the kit comes with, but I'm pretty sure it won't cause any harm.

The engine will be fully wired and detailed as it's pretty simple doing this on large scale cars. For the spark plug wiring, I'm going to use some silver solder I have as it keeps its shape incredibly well, and I can put in the braided pattern that the shielded wires on radio equipped Vettes came with onto the solder by rolling it over the teeth of some pliers I have.

The painting process will be starting out with smoothing out any areas where flash was removed from the body, filling in any small depressions with putty, fully sanding the entire body to give the primer some "teeth" to grab onto, and deepen the panel lines to ensure the multiple layers of paint don't fill them in. I'll then put a light coat of primer on there, check to see if more body work needs to be done, then put another coat of primer on to fully ensure the body is sealed. I will then put on two or three coats of the Goodwood Green Metallic paint depending on how smoothly they go on. If the second coat goes on and appears smooth, then I'll stop at two. If I have to do any sanding of heavy orange peel I'll put on a third after smoothing out the second. After that, I'll put my first coat of clear on. When it's dry, the black hood stripe decals will go on, then I'll let it fully dry and put on another heavier coat of clear. Once that second coat is dry, I'll know if I need to add another coat of clear, but the way this clear covers and smooths out on its own, I doubt I'll need to. At this point, the body should be incredibly beautiful and completely cured before I even get going with the rest. (As I'll be waiting for my parts to come back from Chrome Tech USA).

Anyway, any suggestions or comments on my plans are fully welcomed. I really want this thing to stand out. When it's done, I'll build a display case for it out of the bunch of Lexan I have lying around and some spare wood. This way I'll be able to display it without having to dust it every few weeks. :D I REALLY can't wait for this to come in. Especially after finding the Chevy Engine Red paint in the MM Acrylic Line. :D

Using Automotive Interior Touch-Up Paints For Model Car Interiors?

25 August 2012 - 01:12 PM

As I wait for my 1967 1/12 Scale Corvette to arrive in the mail next week, I've been building up my supplies and painting options available to me. I've settled on a color of Goodwood Green Metallic which I just ordered from an online store (Automotive Touch-Up which offers paints that dry SUPER hard and incredibly fast, and don't attack plastic), with a black interior and white hood stripe.

Now what I'm waffling on is how to paint the interior. I could always use the Model Master Acrylic paints as I love the ease of clean-up and great coverage they provide, but would also like to be able to get an authentic sheen and coloring that the automotive interior touch-up paints provide.

My local AutoZone store offers the Rust-o-leum flat black interior vinyl/fabric paint, as well as the Duplicor Vinyl/Fabric paint in the flat black color I'm looking for.

Has anybody ever used these paints on their cars before? Do they attack plastics? (Though I plan on using a lacquer primer from the Automotive Touch-Up store to prime everything as it does not attack styrene). How do the paints look when dry? I've never used them before and don't want to spent the $8.00 on a can of it only to never use it again. (Still kicking myself for buying a large can of GM Blue Engine Enamel when it was only used on the 1953 Corvette model I just finished). I took a search through the forums here and couldn't find any posts about it. (Whether from the fact that there are none, or my search abilities are severely lacking).

What do you do while waiting for a kit to arrive?

23 August 2012 - 01:20 PM

The other day I went on E-Bay and found a 1/12 scale, Monogram 1967 Corvette Coupe still sealed in its box up for grabs. Yeah, the $75.00 that included shipping was a bit stiff, but the kit is no longer in production and it's a kit that I loved building when I was a kid. I have the MCG Photo-Etch set for the kit but just needed the actual kit to build.

I'm now at the difficult part in waiting for the kit to arrive (scheduled to arrive on Wednesday next week) and just thinking of what I'm going to do. I think I'll spend the extra money (got some b-day cash a couple weeks ago and some poker winnings that I use to splurge on myself) and go get the high quality automotive touch-up paint from a site that I've purchased from before. I don't think I've ever painted a car green or yellow, and am leaning towards going with the Goodwood Green Metallic paint with a black interior. I just think that the Sunfire Yellow color with black interior would too "bumble-bee" like for me.

With this being a large scale kit, I know I can really detail the engine bay, fully wire it and plumb it, and just make it stand out. I was thinking of opening the doors for it, but with a 1967 Coupe the doors are VERY tricky to cut out and I don't want to mess this up. So I'll just do a minor cut job and cut the headlights out and hook it up so they can rotate like on the real car.

There are so many things I'm thinking of and hoping of doing here. I got a Connecticut State license plate template and have put my actual plate number on there and will use that for this car, and am already working on possible photo-etch parts I can make that aren't on the MCG sheet. I'll likely de-chrome the chromed parts, clean them up, then send them to Chrome Tech USA and have them all re-chromed for me.

So what do you guys/gals all do when you are waiting for a kit to arrive and itching to get some paint and glue applied?

1996 Monogram 1/24 Scale Grand Sport Convertible

28 May 2012 - 05:13 PM

So I recently completed the 1988 1/16 scale Corvette Convertible, and the itch to build another Corvette has already hit me. :) Going on E-Bay, I was able to find the kit that I enjoyed building the most when I was younger, and that is the Monogram 1/24 scale Corvette Grand Sport Convertible. The details on this kit are fantastic, and the build is generally quite easy and fun to put together. So I got the kit a few days ago and have already gone and gotten quite a few other items to help me out. I picked up the Detail Master nickel-silver photo-etch detail set for the 84-96 Corvettes which includes the Grand Sport emblems needed for the sides of the hood, as well as the nose and gas cap emblem. I also got some proper scale ignition wire so that I can wire the engine since the distributor is easily accessible on the front of the engine and very easy to attach wires to. I picked up some red seatbelt material to create the seatbelts for the interior, and also got some photo-etched pedals to create the proper pedals in the kit. (I'll go into why I need these later).

I found an online retailer that sells automotive touch-up paints for every make and model car you can think of. (http://www.automotivetouchup.com/) They offer paints in larger cans, small touch-up bottles, and 12 oz spray cans. The colors are sold by the manufacturer's color codes and are specially made for each order. Wondering if they would work on the standard styrene plastic used in model cars, I e-mailed the company to ask. They responded very quickly and said that they aren't sure if the paints will cause any issues with the plastic. I told them that I was going to try and spray these over a Dupli-Color primer, and while they said that it shouldn't react with that primer, they couldn't guarantee it. They also wanted me to let them know if it did indeed work straight over the styrene, as well as over the Dupli-Color primer in case any other customer asked them with the same question. It was refreshing getting a company responding to a model building question without laughing it off.

The paints are $20 each for the color coats, and only $8 for the same sized can of clear-coat and primer. Just to be safe, I picked up the primer to use since there shouldn't be issues with the same company's primer and color coat. The paints should arrive this week (hopefully tomorrow and not on Wednesday-Friday as I'll be in NYC on business travel). I'll let you guys know if it works as I saved some sprue and spare parts and will try it out on that.

My initial goal when building this kit was to open up the doors and hinge them so they could open. After starting up on the kit, I decided not to do that. The kit is detailed very well, and I just don't think I have the skills I need at the moment to properly open up the doors. Perhaps I'll pick up another one of these kits and try it again in the future, but for now, I just want to build a details standard kit.

Earlier I mentioned that I had to pick up some pedals for the kit, and here's why. For some reason, when Monogram made this kit, they used an automatic transmission on the engine assembly, and the interior only has brake and gas pedals. The stick-shift is properly represented, but the fact that the transmission is wrong (NO LT4 Grand Sport engines had auto trannies. They all had the 6 speed manual transmission) and the clutch pedal is missing is really frustrating.

Thankfully, a very generous member here on the forums (TurboKitty) is sending me the engine/transmission combo from the 1995 Corvette ZR-1 kit from Monogram. On that kit, they included the correct 6-speed manual transmission. I'll be able to use that and with the photo-etched pedals be able to properly represent the transmission on this kit.

I've already started some assembly/painting. Got the wheels and all other parts on the kit de-chromed and the wheels have been repainted with gloss black for the five-spoke center, and silver chrome paint for the rims. The tires and wheels on this kit were molded incredibly well. The only issues I've faced thus far is a TON of extra flashing on the kit and some poorly placed mold-release marks that have needed to be sanded and in some cases puttied up. But overall, it is going together quite well. I need to go and find myself another brand of red-paint to use on this kit. The gloss red Testors Acryl paint I have just isn't doing the job covering up the metallic-blue plastic the kit was molded in. The flat black has gone on PERFECTLY and covers everything, but the red is going on too thin and allowing the blue to show through. In addition, it does not cover any type of edge like the flat black does. I like using the acryl paint for the quick drying and easy clean-up, but it just isn't covering well. Perhaps if I go and get a flat-red acryl paint it will cover like the flat black does and I can then just put an acrylic clear coat over the top to get the semi-gloss or gloss sheen I want.

For the center stripe on the kit, I'm still debating doing one of two things. One is to go and initially paint the body in the proper Arctic White Dupli-Color Perfect Match paint, then mask off the areas that need masking and put the Admiral Blue Metallic paint over the top. To do this, I would need the Admiral Blue Metallic I picked up from that website to not react with the Arctic White. The other idea I have, and one I am likely to go with, is to go and take the white decal film I have and cut out the proper sized strips for the center stripe and the pinstriping alongside it. For this to work, I'll need the white decal film to not react poorly with the clear coat I'll be spraying over everything. I have plenty of the decal paper so I'll be able to test this out before going gung-ho with it.

Anyway, I'm going to be fairly busy this week and won't be able to make any updated with photos, but figured I'd get the thread going. Thanks for reading my little novel here, and I look forward to completing this build!

Stupid Things You've Done While Modeling

28 April 2012 - 06:34 PM

I did a search and couldn't find a topic for this, so I decided to start a new one. I got some more work done on my '88 Corvette 1/16th scale build today (Got the doors attached to the body and now my next step is getting the photo-etch work done), and just did something really stupid.

I don't know if this should be a PSA against drinking while building, but in the end it's kind of funny.

Earlier tonight, I had put a glob of CA Glue on a piece of cardboard (as cardboard doesn't seem to make it insta-set) so I could use a toothpick to apply a small amount to where the door hinge pieces attach to the body. I did this so that I wouldn't get glue on the hinge and therefore didn't make the doors un-openable. This was done many hours ago, and coincidentally many beers ago.

Well, I was in the kitchen getting a snack made, and saw the cardboard with the damp spot on there. If not an idiot at the time, :P , I would have done the waft-of-air odor test and realized it was CA glue. Instead, I put my middle finger on there. Feeling it was sticky, I suddenly remembered what it was. Thankfully, I didn't touch any other part of my body and instantly went to the sink to apply water. This instantly set the glue and I now do not have a fingerprint on my middle finger due to the glue that has firmly set. Lol. I will need to repeatedly wash the hand to allow the glue to separate naturally as the skin sheds.

I'm just glad that I had some sort of memory about how this came to be, otherwise I may have gone to the bathroom and......... well........... given the ER docs a story to last a lifetime.

So what "not so smart" things have you all done involving modeling?