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Ah yes.......wiping out lobes on a solid lifter camshaft. Know the problem well! My experience has been having it occur on initial start-up, right after a rebuild or new cam installation. Seems like if you can get past the first 10 minutes, you’re in the clear. Hemmings posted an article a little ways back. Seems that they attribute the problem to the way that motor oil is now formulated. Supposedly, it’s different then “back in the day”. Of course, Hemmings is now selling their own motor oil, so take that into consideration.

Built from the box save for plug leads and the carb fuel line, this Tamiya Morgan was just an absolute gem of a kit and one I have been wanting to build for a long time. I finished it in AK Interactive Real Color 002 Cream White and Gunze Mr Color C100 Wine Red under a couple coats of Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear. The interior is Gunze Mr Color C68 Red Madder. If you have one of these Morgans in your stash, do yourself a favor and build it! You won't be disappointed.

Tonight you must have eaten somewhere nice, I bet........

All finished and in Under Glass with more complete pictures. This was such a fun build and I am really pleased with it.

I used Plastruct .030” Copoly Sheet #91251, cut to the rectangular size I needed, then I used a corner cutter from Hobby Lobby to get the 1/4” radius corners. It’s called a “Crop-a-dile Corner Chomper”, meant for paper, but it does well on thin styrene and clear copolymer sheet. Scribed the portion of the windows that can open outward, then I laid them on painters tape, and sprayed one side with a couple light coats of Model Master 2949 Transparent Black Window Tint. I put window “shades” inside using corrugated styrene sheet. The enamel window tint seems to cover more evenly than the Tamiya Lacquer version, though I’m more partial to Tamiya in general. Maybe it’s the copoly, but the enamel seems to work better. I’m almost out of it, so I’ll have to see if I can find more somewhere.

AMT kit, working doors, wired engine, and BMF trim. Those doors were a bear to get working right

Went to DQ tonight...

Paying for dinner was a little pricey tonight.

Not that I recall. It went together pretty well if I remember. All kits have some issues but this wasn't anymore than usual

Yes, toothbrushes are good for tasks like that. Soft enough not to cause damage, and stiff enough to pick the softened paint out.

I'll buy one to go along with my other tractors. It must be a bit of ancestry in me, because the majority of my family hasn't lived on a farm for over 80 years. Just something about them...

The majority of the chrome on a Model A was nickel-plating. Kit chrome would be way too bright for most of us, but we are the builders who would know.

Side by side comparison. It's not the roof line as such but the top of the door frame is too straight compared to the real car which has a downward curve. I'm not too sure how easily that could be fixed as there have been issues with the plastic DDA uses that doesn't like to take glue. The other issues are with the wheel arches. The front wheel arch flare is too wide at the bottom (easily fixed with the Dremel) and the front of the rear wheel arch flare needs to meet the door shut line. Also the rear lower swage line is a bit too high where it meets the bumper. Honestly, the model is still buildable so these issues shouldn't really be of concern to the casual modeller. Cheers ShwnS

What are the dimensions are you working on. I have a space problem and storage problem to.

"Gone fishing and might never come back so don't wait around" is a sign I'd like to hang on my last two customer jobs, but they'd probably stop paying.

Thank you guys. Masking the interior did take some time… and patience haha. I just wanted it over with!

Impressive. Sheer genius using different sheets of black.

Now this looks like fun as a build 👍👍👍🏆🤫

Thank you!

Oh ok. I've talked to AITM on Facebook recently and asked them for an old Mack cab. They said they do have the one I want.

What was the dimensions of your diorama just out of curiosity. I really enjoyed looking at it.

I’m not really known for doing that🥴…but the axles attach to the leaf springs which are part of the frame rails. I can probably attach the three rear crossmembers and still spread the rails enough to slip the engine into place. But it has to be in place before the front axle goes in.

I have this kit too, lurking somewhere up in the attic. But now you have me scared as to what else might be lurking there🧟‍♀️🧟‍♂️