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  2. Aluminum body mounts fabricated and temporarily installed, to allow preliminary alignment of the chassis with the body. Front radius arms shortened and brackets moved to avoid interfering with the steering gear. Chassis secured to the body to determine the correct position of the rear body support tube/structure (a bigger diameter tube will be installed to better fit the brackets). First time the body and chassis have been joined. Just going to let it sit on the desk for a day or two before committing the current alignment to permanent. I think I'm happy with the ride height once I raise the nose 3/16 at the spoiler, but I may alter the front /rear positioning slightly.
  3. Great looking little roadster. Very good use of a bunch of left over parts,.
  4. Just tried the VL today for the first time and loved it. I found it easier to paint with than the H. It was sputtering at first.. not sure what was wrong with it.. but after blowing about half my mixed paint through it, it was fine. Incidentally, I decanted some Model Masters Royal Blue Pearl Custom Lacquer and it sprays a whole lot better than the TS-47 I decanted. Maybe I've got an old or bad can of Tamiya. The MM went down smoooooth.
  5. Nice clean build. Great color combination and I like your wheel and tire combination.
  6. Great looking job on the distressing of this one. You need to stop parking your models out in the field like this.
  7. Q1: what airbrush do you use? Iā€™m fussing with my pasche - cleaning And using my dual action for the first time in a few years ... well done the createx is pre-thinned - right?
  8. This is a photo of what I have of the 2014 Mustang GT "Orange". The transmission bottom was used on the engine master along with the top cover being in that pile. The engine block and oil pan have a hole through them like the old metal axle kits. The heads an starter are also molded into the block. The valve covers have the oil fill cap molded on. The front cover was a close choice on which was better but the 2013 version had a few very slight details that this one didn't. This might work for some but buying this kit for the engine was a huge disappointment, especially from Revell. Now this photo is a collection of parts I've been working on to cast as a resin "Coyote" engine kit. The basic engine was all from the 2013 Boss 302 Mustang, minus the bottom of the transmission. Clean details and the separately made parts is what makes this the best choice to build a modern "coyote" engine. What I had been working on before this master stalled was modifying the super charger to fit this engine. Was getting stuck making a pulley bracket, they don't scale these parts to be that accurate. Seeing the interest still in this engine I've got it back on the workbench though. P.S. I normally don't cast engines and transmissions together but this had both really nice pieces so what I'll end up doing is casting the one piece then cutting the two apart as resin to make a new separate molds for each.
  9. I think one of the older AMT Modified Stocker kits has that set-up; maybe the Buick or Falcon.
  10. Thanks, I can't take credit for the grill. It was a rebuild & the person who built it before me used so much glue it warped it. It seemed to work out for me on though.
  11. Yup...that's where the confusion can come in. The side-drafts in the Accurate Miniatures (reboxed later as Revell) 1/24 GS kits are correct for the smallblock-powered cars. The OP's photo, though I know nothing of its history or provenance, clearly has down-draft Webers hiding within the raised scoop.
  12. Thanks alot for these, Bud!!, i was even more persistant myself, and scored with a TON of great photos in CAD form!!!
  13. Well I have learned something. I always thought he was only a big-engine, high horsepower gasser racer. Really nice build.
  14. I really hope so, Bud!, its my third favorite Ferrari of all time...is this kit prone to fit issues?...its been falling together for me so far...
  15. Thanks alot, Bud!!
  16. I look forward to seeing your thoughts on this kit. I have built a couple and have enjoyed them. You mentioned the intent of your build and going to the lower level 300 trim. Exterior wise there are few differences. The most obvious besides the Hood would be on the Tail Gate trim. the 300 being flat without the kits provided chrome trim. Just fill the area in the Tail Gate for the trim. I don't know if you have access to the Revell '66 El Camino kit, but that would provide you with a more accurate flat Hood without the simulated Hood scoop.
  17. I hope so, Bud!, i wont ever use CF decals on any of my builds -dont really like the look....and since not all CF is exposed, i'm good to go, lol
  18. This is a BEAUTIFUL FXXK!!!!!
  19. While I know little about this style of car 1:1 or 1/25th. But I do recognize a good clean build when I see one. I like the finishes and clean details on this. The images on the trunk and hood are interesting and would like to learn how this was done.
  20. The Ford is something that I started a few years ago. I added the headlight buckets from a 57 Ford and sectioned the body about 3/8 inch, IIRC. The flame mask was from Lazy Modeller and was very simple to work with. Here is a link to a YouTube video. I forgot when I installed the mask that I had sectioned the body so the mask did not fit the sides as it was designed to. Later-
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