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Enamels WIN!


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The other thing I've been looking into are these nail airbrush artists who work with lacquers too and they paint some amazing stuff on ladies' plastic nails. I've seen them buff the raw plastic to a shine, then paint, and clear without any problems . . . so there's something to be said about working with naked styrene . . .

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Donn, I assume you're talking about a 2-to-1 thinning ratio for Testors bottle paints and not for decanted spray enamel, correct?

Yup ! ,

The bottles , decanted paint is already thinned , no need for it . On second thought , as thick as the Testors spray comes out of some of these cans , maybe a little thinner would help the situation ! Lol !

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Donn, I used to email you quite a bit right after I got your Airbrushing DvD. You're super-accommodating and patient with your replies. There were a few questions I didn't ask because as I said, I was emailing you with a crapload of questions hehe One question I've always wanted to ask you about your Paashe. Do you open it up all the way when you shoot your paint? Halfway maybe? I used to use my Badger 200 but decided to buy an H5 as you suggested. When I'm painting with it it's barely open, so little in fact that I'd have to do 3-4 passes over the metalizer to see any color at all.

What about you Virgil? Are you using a Paasche? or your Iwata?

--- Mike

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Yup ! ,

The bottles , decanted paint is already thinned , no need for it . On second thought , as thick as the Testors spray comes out of some of these cans , maybe a little thinner would help the situation ! Lol !

I've learned it's hit and miss with decanted paint, so it's best to thin a little every time. I think anyway

Edited by Evil Appetite
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Mike, I am using my Iwata Eclipse which does a fine job, but I thin the paint a tad more than Donn probably has too with his AB.

I think for single color paint jobs the best bet is to go with an airbrush hat will open up and lay down a smooth coat.

Believe it or not, I've been thinking of getting the exact same AB Donn uses because I love the smooth way it works for him in the DVD.

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Mike ,

You need to open it up ! The very tip of the needle is barely visible on mine . I test it first on newspaper to test the pattern , I open it until it spits , then I slowly close it until I'm getting a nice , wide fan .

As for the emails , not a problem ! If I charged $5 for every one I answer , I'd never work another day in my life ! Lol !

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Mike, the reason why I like my Eclipse is that it's a fine AB for doing graphics using urethanes . . . and the lacquer makes the paint dry on the spot.

The single paint jobs, like those Donn does, are really addictive in particular working with street machines, gassers, customs, etc . . .

I'm the first to believe that there's an airbrush for different jobs and styles out here.

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Donn, since you don't mind answering questions (it's your generous spirit, buddy), I wanted to ask you if you had ever experimented with using a mid to high temp lacquer thinner using a good primer coat underneath just to find out if the paint will dry faster, etc . . .

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I'm the first to believe that there's an airbrush for different jobs and styles out here.

I began thinking that myself when first using Donn's technique with my Badger 200. Great airbrush, I do use it for interior and smaller parts. But using it for wide area coverage on a body..no good. Doesn't have a wide enough spray. I was seeing stripes after the paint dried. The H5 with it's wide tip doesn't do that.

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Mike ,

You need to open it up ! The very tip of the needle is barely visible on mine . I test it first on newspaper to test the pattern , I open it until it spits , then I slowly close it until I'm getting a nice , wide fan .

Thanks! I'll do that tonight!

As for the emails , not a problem ! If I charged $5 for every one I answer , I'd never work another day in my life ! Lol !

Hey man, there's an idea. And a good one too as you've blown all that retirement money hehe

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Since I began using Tamiya laquers,I won't even consider enamels anymore. You just can't beat the drying time. Even spraying right out of the can is effortless. Just a few minutes ago, I sprayed a pair of steel wheels (3 coats),had a smoke, then installed them into the tires. I never could have done that had I even used a flat enamel. On the body, I sprayed the top with Testors one coat laquer one day, the body with Tamiya the next, taped and sprayed scallops on it the next day. If I had used enamel, I would still be waiting for the top to dry. :rolleyes:

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I've got the bodywork almost finished...My test mule is the new 48 sled. Boyd has supplied two jars of pearl green, I have cheep sunglasses and lacquer thinner, My trusty Badger 155 should flow wide enough......I still love my HOK.....But I started out with testors enamels so I can re learn!

And I put lacquers in my dehydrator....so why not enamels! :P;)

Edited by MikeMc
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Donn, since you don't mind answering questions (it's your generous spirit, buddy), I wanted to ask you if you had ever experimented with using a mid to high temp lacquer thinner using a good

primer coat underneath just to find out if the

paint will dry faster, etc . . .

Yes sir !

Worked well with the Guards Red , when I applied the clear coat as an experiment , Uh Uh ! It shattered the surface of the red as though it were glass !

A few detractors have questioned the claim of 46 years to develop this method . There isn't much that I haven't done with Lady Trial & Error ! She is an expensive ...... ( insert your own adjective here ) , believe me , she's been with me for years ! Between her and Murphy , I sometimes wonder, which is worse ?

It is always going to be an on going learning experience , I'm just to stubborn and or curious to ever quit ! Lol !

Mike , which life savings are we talking about and in which childhood was it spent ? It's all been worth it and I'm still having a blast with all of this . The fact that I can help others because of my experience is the best thing about it ! No need for anyone else to end up a whack job like me, trying to figure this out !

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Donn, send them to me again, and I will put them up. I saw them on my iPhone and the last time I synched my phone and computer they got erased. I still have the rail road batch you sent.

Send again, please. I will open up a file of them in my Fotki archives.

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I'm the first to believe that there's an airbrush for different jobs and styles out here.

Sorry Cranky, I realized that a long time ago. (you're not the only "old guy" around here. :))

In my foolish youth, I bought an Iwata Eclipse. I got it on the recommendation of an artist friend, and the workmanship on the brush itself is just top notch. It's really the wrong airbrush for most model work. It awesomely sprays very narrow stripes. But, even with the larger tip, it's not a good match for a lot of model car work. It is just wonderful for stuff like camo and illustration. But getting enough paint on a model required pulling the needle out roughly and inch. So much for double action.

I added a Paasche VL a few years ago, and I'm much happier with it for general purpose work. I get good coverage and a wide spray with the #5 tip and it's now my workhorse airbrush.

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