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Bill Geary,Steve H, and anybody else


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That can give me some ideas on the Chrome attachment on a 1/12 57,

the Chrome is alittle distorted ,couple pieces bowed up at the ends,

Is it best to drill holes in the chrome and put pins in them and drill holes in the body for them to go through and then bend down the ends and glue inside the body?...is there a better way?

Any help from anybody is Appreciated,

Thanks,

Barry Beachum

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I wouldn't think there's enough thickness to the chrome to drill it for pins. Plus, you'd have to drill both body and trim at the same time to keep alignment. I'd be more inclined to carefully superglue the chrome in place. Depending on the amount of bow, you can probably bend it back into shape enough to get it glued down.

I haven't even looked at a 1/12 scale kit in years, so I'm probably not the best source of info for this.

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Barry, I'm gonna assume you mean the full side trim including the rear fin panel.

No, I wouldn't drill holes in the trim.........as Steve mentioned, there isn't enough there to drill and you'd run the risk of drilling right through anyway. :lol:

I have this kit and if I were building it, I would strip the chrome of the side trim pieces, and then glue them in place on the body before I did any painting. After everything is painted, I would apply Bare Metal Foil to the trim.

The fin trim inset I would spray with some kind of dull aluminum as this was an anodized section on the 1:1.

This will save the headache of trying to put on the chrome after it's painted, which you can run the risk of smearing the paint with epoxy or some other glue.

Not to mention, side trim is not the same "shade" as your bumper chrome so the contrast will probably be a bit better in "scale" to the 1:1.

Now having said this, you're going to have to be proficient in the application of BMF. :shock: It's not as hard as it seems................just be sure to use a brand new exacto blade, and let the weight of the knife trim the BMF.

Don't try to press the knife along the way, as this'll lead to much cursing as it will put a gouge in your nice new paint job! :) :shock:

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I 've stripped the chrome(used your trick Bill with Windex) ,body has primer but might need a light 1 some small stuff around the headlights Ive been working on but the chrome fits good ,I can just scratch away some primer in the recessed area where the chrome goes for gluing? ,the top of 1 the rear fin chrome is bowed alittle,..and the points that are at the very end of the front fenders does not follow the fender it points straight and the fender actually rolls inward towards the grill ,I will work through it, got this far whith your help,

Thanks,

Barry Beachum

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I can just scratch away some primer in the recessed area where the chrome goes for gluing?

Yep, that's Standard Modeling 101: You have to scrape away any paint or chrome to get the glue to do it's work. :wink:

If you manipulate the part while the glue is setting (not sure what kind of glue you're using), then you can coax the trim piece to follow the curve of the fender. Since you already primered the body, you run the risk of getting a glue smear on the primer.

That's no biggie as you can just let that spot thoroughly dry, sand the area, and then reprimer again.

If I were building something of this size since it involves quite a few parts, and the construction is a bit tedious-------I would assemble everything first, and then test fit everything into the body.

Chassis, interior, engine, etc....would all fit first without any drama------then color coat the body. This will minimize any aggravation when it comes down to final assembly. :shock:

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hmmmm i never scrape away chrome or paint before gluing and i never seem to have a problem with adhesion. but i typically use super glue or epoxy and never solvent glue. maybe thats the reason?

Yeah, Superglue and epoxy don't mind what surface they bond to.

Barry, Follow Bills advice and it'll all work out well! He's much better than I am about explaining it (and building it, too!)

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