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Stingray69

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  1. Hmm, I always thought Mark was a well known and respected figure in the hobby, gee... :?
  2. I posted this a while back. Hope it helps!
  3. Well being a Led head I have to give you the thumbs up! Very nice work, love all the details :shock: BTW they used to use "Rock and Roll" in their ads... I guess their rights to use the song is up :? Page is pretty strict about people using their work, which is cool with me because he is God!
  4. Zeb, there's plenty of room there. Leg room is still stock, and the chop was only about 3 inches (scaled up of course). The driver sits much lower than stock so it's all good! I got the body stretched, still needs a lot of shaping and filling! :?
  5. I'm a Paashe man myself but I've always heard great things about Iwata's. The gravity feed is a nice feature as well.
  6. This is one of the most detailed models I've seen, and its all done very cleanly. Just absolutely amazing! You're definitely the Scale Master!
  7. Welcome to the MCM Forum!! I'm really liking your work, esepcially the Camaro! Nice 1:1 rides too 8)
  8. I usually wait about 20-30 minutes between coats... really depends on the paint and the conditions. I don't apply clear until the color coats have had ample time to dry. About the actual problem you had, it sounded like the surface might of been dirty before paint. Although there might have been no visible dirt, sometimes oil from your skin can cause them weird looking air bubbles.
  9. Very nice work so far! Excellent work with the paint, that color is a winner for sure 8)
  10. Happy B-Day MCM!! I'm glad I found this forum and the mag! Thanks for the fine work.
  11. Off to a really great start! I really like your work, nice and clean 8)
  12. Izzy that looks pretty good especially after your clean up work. You've gotten some good tips so far but just let me add my thoughts... For starters the tubing your using looks a little large for 1/25. I stick with 1/16" when it comes to roll cages. This is the process I use when soldering brass. By no means is this the only way, works for me so I stuck with. I use an $8 40 watt iron I found at my LHS. I prefer the iron to a torch because it allows me to get into tight spots with out loosening other joints. If you can get your hands on silver solder, get it. If not I use rosin core. Not as strong but still takes a major beating! -Add flux to the joint being soldered, not too much or it gets messy. Melt the flux and heat the brass using a mini torch or a soldering iron. A small butane torch is handy. -Add more flux a few seconds later but don't do anymore melting or heating -Add a little bit of solder to the tip of your iron. The amount will really depend on the tubing size, but its much easier to add more solder then it is to remove it :wink: -Apply the tip of the iron to the joint and allow the solder to flow for a few seconds. If you got plenty of flux on the joint, the solder should have welded it all up. If needed add a just a tad of flux and then add more solder. If you did this right there should little to no clean up needed. These are just pics of one the frames I've done in the past... chances are you've seen them but just in case No clean up was needed.
  13. The details in this thing! I'm really at a loss for words too!
  14. :shock: That is looking very WILD! Love that shifter! Keep up the good work on this beast!
  15. Thanks Chris! No, I haven't started any of the frame or tub work yet. I still need to get the body stretched a bit up front then I'll begin the frame. I'll be scratch building it out of brass, similar to my previous drag projects (which I still have yet to finish :oops:)
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