Psychographic Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 I'm working on a resin body that was a thin slush cast. Due to the major amounts of reshaping needed on this body I have sanded it paper thin in some spots along with a couple of small holes. I also thought I would like to fill in the windows, some to be reshaped and some just filled completely. I'm assuming I have the option of masking the body and coating the inside with either resin or epoxy to build it back up and at the same time fill the windows. I'm going to guess the first step will be to rough up the glossy inside of the body to give the new resin or epoxy something to bite to. Will fresh resin stick to cured resin? If I can't go resin to resin, will epoxy work? Does epoxy shrink? Should I worry about warping the body using either resin or epoxy for this purpose? Thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill w Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 Yes, fresh resin will stick to cured resin. Go with your first guess, rough the resin and coat with fresh resin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my80malibu Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 Interesting question here,wouldn't epoxy,or superglue with some filler material, work equally as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 You can also use microballoons mixed with the resin, or with two part epoxy, and spread the mixture on the inner sides of the thinned out areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LDO Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 (edited) Why not lightweight fiberglass cloth covered with CA (super glue)? Thin and strong. I can't imagine that mixing resin and trying to get a consistent thickness would be easier. Edited November 26, 2014 by LDO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 I would absolutely positively recommend at least 30 minute epoxy and fine RC model plane glass cloth. Definitely stronger than glass and CA, or straight resin. I frequently reinforce seams with the stuff, and it's just about bulletproof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Why not lightweight fiberglass cloth covered with CA (super glue)? Thin and strong. I can't imagine that mixing resin and trying to get a consistent thickness would be easier. Even cheaper/easier, tissue paper soaked with CA. By tissue paper, I mean the kind used in balsa model airplanes or sometimes used in gift packages. I've done this when I needed a thin, TOUGH reinforcement for something. It works great and is very strong. "Poor man's fiberglass." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 You can also use microballoons mixed with the resin, or with two part epoxy, and spread the mixture on the inner sides of the thinned out areas. Micro works fine as a filler to bulk something up, but has almost no strength. Just remember that if you're going to be doing more heavy shaping on your part, you might like something with more reinforcement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Even cheaper/easier, tissue paper soaked with CA. By tissue paper, I mean the kind used in balsa model airplanes or sometimes used in gift packages. I've done this when I needed a thin, TOUGH reinforcement for something. It works great and is very strong. "Poor man's fiberglass." Very true. The cellulose fibers in model airplane tissue are relatively long, and when wet-out with epoxy or CA, perform exactly the same function as the glass fibers in fiberglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 I have used ordinary 5 minute epoxy a number of times for just this purpose, its always worked well for me. apply it on the inside and allow it to cure for a week (could be sooner) and it sands fine, fills pinholes well and reinforced the body really well...no problem with it not sticking to the resin or anything. and it was strong enough to resist twisting without cracking off, plus it did not seem to shrink or distort the body or anything like that. jb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.