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Best stock early flathead?


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Hi guys,

I'm researching hard myself but I've not got too much solid info yet - I'm trying to build a 32 with a stock 32 flathead in.

I bought the Revell 32 sedan to get the flathead - but it has non-standard heads. Is there a kit with subsitute heads that I could swap in, or is there a better stock flattie that I can grab from somewhere? Looking for 21-bolt flattie

Also, any leads on a stock 32 parts, rear axle, front axle, etc wuld be a BIG help - I'm tyring to build a superdetailed stock 3 window Deuce but its a daunting task it seems so far....

Thank you!!!

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The AMT 49 and 50 Ford had stock flatheads,as well as the 49 Merc and the 53 Ford pickup. The 49 and 50 had the hole through the block for the axle though. I thinl the later ones didn't have the hole. The AMT 34 Ford pickup has one too.

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The AMT 49 and 50 Ford had stock flatheads,as well as the 49 Merc and the 53 Ford pickup. The 49 and 50 had the hole through the block for the axle though. I thinl the later ones didn't have the hole.

Unfortunately, those engines represent the later 24-head-stud flathead engines, and the OP is looking for the earlier 21-stud engine to do a stock '32.

The '32 thru '36 engines had the water pumps up high on the heads too, unlike the later engines that had them lower on the front corners of the block.

1932FordV8engine-vi.jpgford_v8_32.jpg

I should know where to locate a good stock '32 kit engine, but I don't.

I'd try Replicas and Miniatures. If he's got a 21-stud engine, it's sure to be perfectly beautiful.

Far as suspension parts go, to get good stock stuff I'd first check, again, with R&M.

One source for close to correct '32 axles are the many derivatives of this vintage Revell '31 model A kit. There is a non-dropped front axle with steerable spindles that looks very good, with mechanical brakes. The rear axle center section and axle bells are also very good, and really indistinguishable in 1/25 scale from the slightly beefier '32 parts.

Revell%20H1275-200%20Woody.JPG

One problem I've encountered trying mix-and-match to get a good representation of a particular flathead is the less-than-correct scaling of many of the offerings. I don't know why it's so hard to measure accurately, but heads being too long or too short, and blocks with details placed wrong can play merry hell when trying to cobble bits into a correct engine.

I'll dig through my stash and see if I can come up with recommendations for stuff that will work for you, if no body beats me to it.

First one I'll look at is the AMT / Lindberg '34 Ford pickup as mentioned by pharoah, and see if it is reasonably accurate.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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You guys are the best, thank you so much!

Bill, RMCo is a GREAT idea, thank you, I'll see what they got! I'd be really interested to see what you come up with too, if you have time! As you correcty state, its kinda hard to grt the perfect match of sizes it seems. I have some AMT heads for a flattie somewhere here, I may see how they look on the Revell block...

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What about the flattie from a '40 Ford? The Revell kit has a nice engine, although the radiator hoses are not quite correct.

Looks good, and is a 21-stud unit (though I believe a '40 should be a 24-stud engine) but the center water-outlets on the heads are wrong for a '32 and the water pumps are also not right. Probably a good place to start, though. The heads could be modified easily enough, and the water pumps fall into the category of "how accurate do you really want to be?"

flatheads.jpg

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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I would get the AMT '34 two door sedan 2n1 (yellow model on box. Do not get the issue with the red street rod model on the box. No stock parts) for an engine and parts donor. It has a really nice stock flat head engine with the correct locations for the radiator hoses. Plus, it has the stock suspension, nice two piece wire wheels and stock tires with separate whitewall inserts. I don't know if the hub caps would be correct for a '32.

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I would get the AMT '34 two door sedan 2n1 (yellow model on box. Do not get the issue with the red street rod model on the box. No stock parts) for an engine and parts donor. It has a really nice stock flat head engine with the correct locations for the radiator hoses. Plus, it has the stock suspension, nice two piece wire wheels and stock tires with separate whitewall inserts. I don't know if the hub caps would be correct for a '32.

Unfortunately, neither the front axle nor the wheels / tires are correct for a stock '32.

'32 is an 18" rim. 32ford.jpg

'33-34 is 17", with noticeably shorter spokes.

fordstk17inch.jpg There's also a similar '35 16-incher that's a bolt-on too. Again, how accurate are you shooting for?

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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The engine in the AMT/Lindberg '34 pickup is the same as the one found in the AMT '32 Ford 5 window, Phaeton, and Vicky kits, and is also very similar to the one in their '40 Coupe/'39/'40 Sedan kits. They're not really the best blocks to start with, very basic. The one from the AMT '34 Sedan Roger mentions is much better. The one from Replicas and Miniatures is even better, though you will need to pick through the available parts to get the exact version you want, as I'm not sure if they sell it as a complete kit.

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The Model A front axle is pretty incorrect for a '32 Ford though--for 1932, Ford gave the front axle a very slight "drop", which is both noticeable and made the car sit noticeably lower--the Revell Ed Roth "Tweedie Pie" has a stock Deuce front axle which is adaptable.

For the frame, with some work, the frame from any of the excellent Revell '32 Ford street rod kits works--adapt the main crossmember from the AMT '32 Phaeton or Victoria to that, but you will need to build up a correct rear crossmember (mine has 13 pieces of strip styrene in it!--originally done for an early street rod, but now on its way to being built completely stock) The mechanical brake system for the Deuce is essentially the same layout as for a Model A.

DeuceRoadsterFrame.jpg

1932-36 Ford V8 engines were 21-stud, meaning 21 cylinder head bolts (count 'em!) with their twin water pumps mounted at the outlets in the cylinder heads (never worked well, mostly agitated the water--made those flatheads the finest water heaters Detroit ever knew!) but there is a major difference in the intake manifold and carburetor--for 1932 only, Ford used a "plenum chamber" style intake manifold with a Detroit Lubricator carb--in 1933 they went to Stromberg for carbs, and the engine got the more common "over/under" intake with separate passages to each intake port in the block.

Now, if you want to do the really scarce '32 Ford, a Model B can be done, using the excellent Revell Model A Ford 4-banger--visually the B 4-cylinder is the same as a Model A, just lacking the external oil overflow pipe on the valve galley cover on the left side (well, the B water pump attached with just 3 bolts instead of the 4 used on Model A--but that's really not that noticeable!) Externally, the transmissions look the same, Model A having straight-cut gears, '32 getting angled gear teeth.

For stock '32 Ford wheels and tires, the AMT kits are, and have always been--FAR from correct! AMT tooled up a 7:00-15 tire for their early Trophy Series kits, and did a way-too small wire wheel for that tire to be a part of their '32 Ford series of kits! The only correct wheel and tire for a Deuce in 1/25 scale is the set that Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland makes--and just like every other part that Norm Veber casts, they are perfect! Norm also casts a perfect stock firewall for the Revell Deuce kits, but I made my own before I discovered his:

DeuceRoadster1.jpg

That was done from sheet and strip styrene about 15 years or so ago.

For bodies, look no farther than the Revell series of '32 Fords. Unless you want the Phaeton or Victoria, those bodies are the game to play--they are as accurately scaled and done as you will find--along with the fender/running board units and grille. Of course, for stock hood side panels, those will take some work, as the only stock hoods are those from the AMT kits--but a bit of sheet plastic work they will do the job.

Art

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I know it, a 53 (last year for flathead) but what is you guys take on Lindberg's flathead. I know it was a good builder but I don't know how you experts like it. Love that 53 Ford kit.

It looks good when built up, but some of the dimensions are a little under-scale...which you'll find out if you try to put correctly-scaled aftermarket finned heads on it.

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  • 2 years later...
On 5/16/2015 at 3:35 PM, Force said:

How about the engine in the stock version of the AMT 34 Ford 5 Window Coupe, it's a bone stock 21 stud flattie and has some optional hop up parts.

Looks like that would work fine for use in a stock '32:

amt34coupeflatty.jpg.9c1477bd7c8ab8de7caa505a262cd7d4.jpg

 

On 5/10/2015 at 12:33 PM, Guest said:

I would get the AMT '34 two door sedan 2n1 (yellow model on box. Do not get the issue with the red street rod model on the box. No stock parts) for an engine and parts donor. It has a really nice stock flat head engine with the correct locations for the radiator hoses. Plus, it has the stock suspension, nice two piece wire wheels and stock tires with separate whitewall inserts. I don't know if the hub caps would be correct for a '32.

I think this was the kit Roger suggested, which probably shares the stock parts with the AMT '34 Sedan:

amt34sedansidebox.jpg.2ef81dd5cda15ef29f02050617272fef.jpg

AMT34sedan.jpg.63c6307f3ecf3b9eab75338a77832b2d.jpg

amt34sednflatty.jpg.ece423853cfdb03414ddc74def7952b2.jpg

Edited by Casey
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Pics of both the 1/25 Revell '40 Ford Standard Coupe and '48 Ford Police 2'n1 Coupe's flathead V8 engines, as well as he instruction sheets:

'40 Ford Coupe:

WP_20180313_020.thumb.jpg.510423a26559419d733da2d83ee48570.jpg

WP_20180313_026.thumb.jpg.491880b9314a62b595ed249cd7b8b2a2.jpg

 

'48 Ford Coupe:

WP_20180313_021.thumb.jpg.648596d91472e98015826e1684a8f8b5.jpg

WP_20180313_025.thumb.jpg.c2ace0928c8ea1dc534496e6554c488b.jpg

 

Detail pic of belts and front covers. I forgot to include the distributors for both, but they are different-- hopefully you can see the differences in the above images which match what's shown on the instruction sheets. The transmissions, at least the left side of the case, are slightly different, too. 

WP_20180313_023.thumb.jpg.f42ea38f689ff154cf5e15bdf8a38232.jpg

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