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StevenGuthmiller

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About StevenGuthmiller

  • Birthday 11/27/1962

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    yes
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    1/25th-1/24th

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    http://stevenguthmiller@yahoo.com

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    Steven Wade Guthmiller

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  1. That was my guess right from the beginning. You're probably more likely to be able to find a chrome shop that does vacuum metalizing on a small scale than you are finding someone who uses ALSA chrome commercially. Steve
  2. On my way to completing the 2-barrel Rochester carb. Just added a little detail to a center carb from the Revell '66 GTO kit. Not perfect, but with some detail painting and a little weathering, it should do pretty well. Steve
  3. On my way to completing a 2-barrel Rochester carb for my '64 Lemans project. Just added a little detail to a center carb from the Revell '66 GTO kit. Not perfect, but with some detail painting and a little weathering, it should do pretty well. Steve
  4. Understood. But because it's not curing through evaporation but by chemical action, does that mean that it's completely and thoroughly dried or cured? It puts me in mind of some of the quick set joint compounds that we used in the drywall business. The misunderstanding by many was that because it became hard in 30, 60 or 90 minutes, that it was somehow dry. Of course, it was not, and required just as long as regular joint compound to dry completely. In the end, there are a number of other factors that steer me away from 2K, so for the foreseeable future, I'll be sticking with lacquer for my clear coating purposes. Steve
  5. Hmmm, I wouldn't have guessed that. I wonder if a solvent based acrylic, (acrylic lacquer) would work. I don't have a lot of experience with water based paint. Well, I suppose if I drop the hammer on the ALSA chrome at some point, I'll just have to do a little experimenting. Steve
  6. Yeah, this is part of the reason why I've stayed off of the 2K bandwagon. Nothing I hate more than waiting for weeks and months for paint to dry. Steve
  7. What Urethane would you recommend Joe? I'm completely unfamiliar with the use of urethane as a spray can or airbrush material, but I think that it may be about time to pull the trigger on the ALSA system. I have no time for all of the "chrome paints" that everyone is using these days, but if this stuff is as durable as advertised, I'm in. Steve
  8. I’m sorry. Seems I read your post a bit wrong. Yes, I would most likely do it this way, and possibly even permanently install the bumpers if the chassis installation would permit. Steve
  9. Or, at the very least, temporarily attach the bumpers to the body to be certain that you’re masked lines match up, and then disassemble and paint separately. I guess a lot depends on the assembly process required for the particular model. You might possibly not be able to get the chassis into the model with the bumpers permanently installed. These are things that a seasoned builder will investigate before he gets in too deep. By the way, personally, I would paint the silver first, followed by the black for a couple of reasons. #1: it’s easier to cover silver paint with black, than it is to cover black with silver. #2: Masking the smaller silver portion of the body in preparation for the black will be a lot easier, and require a lot less masking material than masking the entire body just to spray the silver on the bottom. Steve
  10. That is most certainly true! I guess that I still operate on the philosophy that every sub-assembly of a model is a model unto itself, so when I’m building an interior, I build it as if it were going to be displayed all by itself. Steve
  11. It started as the center carb from the Revell ‘66 GTO’s tri-power set up. Steve
  12. Of course, but to some of us, there’s more to model building than just “what will be seen”. For me, it’s more about the progression of the project than it is the finished object. I do a lot of things on most builds that will likely never be seen because it’s fun. Steve
  13. Thanks everyone, for your encouragement! Finally getting back on this project a little since sitting for 6 weeks or more After getting some feed back, and a little parts help from some of the members, I've decided to go with a 326 2 bbl in this model. As I am not aware of any aftermarket 2 bbl Rochester carbs available, it fell on me to try to dress up a kit 2 bbl. This started as the center carb from the Revell '66 GTO kit, with a little bit of added detail. Pay no mind to the attached rear carb as that will eventually be removed. Just left it there for the time being as a "handle". Still have some linkage to add, but I believe that it will be at least a bit of an improvement over the kit parts. Steve
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