SfanGoch

Removing cured canopy glue?

The only kits I'm missing are the Valiant V-200 and the Newport. What's to wonder about? If Atlantis has the molds, they'll be produced. If you noticed, the '57 Nomad box was visible in the Instagram clip. It looks like it'll be in the catalog soon. The holdup was with the kit glass. That also might be the problem with these two. Both share the same glass. I test fitted the glass from from an SMP '60 Valiant and it fit perfectly in the Revell Lancer and vice-versa. For whatever reason, H-1251, my Fury kit, has the wrong glass. It's for the V-200. Go figure.

There are no "local" providers in the sense that they use any ALSA product commercially. The products are designed to be applied by the average slob with ten thumbs.

It's a water-based acrylic.

Steve, Alcad Aqua Gloss works.

Pete, you can use any clear urethane as a base coat. I got this straight from the owner of ALSA during a phone call with him.

You're looking at the wrong items. The Hobby Kit is $199.00. The 6oz. bottle of Easy Chrome is $169.00. This is a better deal because you get 4oz. more EC than the 2oz. in the Hobby Kit. You can spray the EC over either a clear or gloss black urethane basecoat and achieve excellent results. That 6oz. bottle will go a long way.

That's what using a primer does. The primer will reveal any imperfections.

I'm an adherent to the K.I.S.S. principle. I use a dividing compass from the drafting set I've had since high school (50 years ago) to scribe window trim lines.

Old trick was to bring a small magnet when checking out a used car. You'd take the magnet and run it along the doors, fenders, quarters, etc. If the magnet didn't stick, in areas, that was a sign of bondo/leadwork covering some nasty holes.

There's Geminimodelcars:

I'm not trying to bust chops. I'm only stating the facts. The spoon test isn't an accurate method because the styrene formulation used to manufacture spoons is different from what individual kit manufacturers use to produce their models. You'd obtain more reliable results by spraying either on the parts tree from a specific model kit. Then, there's the question of durability. As has been pointed out, neither product can withstand any handling without scratching or blemishing the finish. GSW is alcohol-based and Vallejo is a water-based acrylic, nether of which is particularly durable. Also, neither can be clearcoated without a discernible loss in shine and reflectivity. BTW, the Vallejo Model Air dries to a flat finish and doesn't possess a mirror-like finish or NMF shine to begin with. Check the web for reviews. If anyone expects a chrome paint which has a durable finish with shiny and mirror-like reflectivity, you ain't gonna get it from a $4.00 bottle. You only get what you pay for; and, with GSW & Vallejo, you get what you get. No more, no less. I've been lit up for mentioning a certain chrome paint containing actual metal particles and can be handled without damaging the finish; so, I won't do it here unless somebody specifically asks me to name it.

Stynylrez is self-leveling, dries completely rock hard and absolutely smooth. No need for sanding. If you find it too thick for your taste, thin it with a small amount of 70% isopropyl alcohol.

So, you're the guy who snagged the AMX PE set on fleabay. I was about to pull the trigger on it but it was gone.