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removing paint from rattle cans


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A while back I reported a disastrous experiment on removing paint from a spray can. For those who don't remember, I had to wipe down my wifes car, the back porch, a bicycle and the garbage can. Anyway, several members had suggestions on how I should have removed the paint. I do not remember what they were but they sounded a lot better than my idea. HELP ............What were the alternatives ?

bob

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Bob, I use snow cone cups as a funnel to decant spray cans. I don't think you can buy snow cone cups out of the store...............I got a large pack of 'em off eBay------about 200 or so.

Simply cut off a small piece of the end of tip, tape the cup to your airbrush jar, and then spray into the cup. You might get some spray on your fingers a little, but this way has been effective for me in gettting automotive paints for airbrushing in a jar.

Here's a pic of the snow cone in the background..................

Pc240930-vi.jpg

I also located the past posts on how others did it.....................To check it out Bob, click here.

HTH! :D

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Hi bob,

I have seen a couple of methods, but the one I use only needs some good masking tape, a straw, a paper towel and a container.

First tape the straw to the tip of the nozzle of the rattle can and make sure to seal it tight with the masking tape. Then place the other end of the straw inside of the container and use the paper towel to cover the openning leaving just a little gap for the pressure to be released. Press and hold the can tip and the paint will start to flow through the straw and drip into the container. Watch the level of paint on the container so it doesn't spill. Wait a couple of hours before using it or just leave it in the jar for a couple of days so it may "gas out". If you use it straigh out of the can it may start to bubble and either ruin your paint job or clog your airbrush.

Another technique I saw was turning the can upside down and taking all the gas out, then making a hole on the can to get the paint. I personally don't like this one cause is kind of messy.

The last one I saw was using hose straps, an ice maker kit, a release valve and a couple of couplings.

Hope this helps.

Edited by Papin67
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You also need to be sure to let the paint sit and "gas out" for a few minutes after decanting before you load it into your airbrush. If the paint still has propellant in it when you pour it into your airbrush jar or color cup, it can cause the airbrush to blow up ... not in a take-your-entire-arm-off way, but certainly in a create-a-HUGE-mess way!

I read the other online tutorials and they say to wait at least an hour, perhaps overnight...I guess these are the same guys that say to leave enamel drying for a month before working with it ;):rolleyes:

When I decant the spray it tends to boil a bit in the cup for a few minutes. I use an open cup on my airbrush and haven't had any disasters, but capping the decanted spray could be messy upon reopening, like a soda bottle shaken then opened. I tend to decant small amounts, apply a few drops of thinner, let it gas out a couple minutes, and spray. No problems so far. And I've found new straws that fit tightly over Tamiya nozzles, so that I don't need any tape or fun-tack to hold the straw in place. It's so easy, even a cave man can do it :D

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Guest Davkin
You also need to be sure to let the paint sit and "gas out" for a few minutes after decanting before you load it into your airbrush.

That issue is why I like my method for decanting. I just take a small foil pie tin or whatever they are called, the ones that are about 4"or so diameter. I fold one end into a "spout" shape. I then just spray the paint into the pie tin. Once the tin is full enough that the paint starts splashing I pour it out into an airbrush bottle, repeat as often as necessary. This method allows most of the propellant to escape during the decanting. I still have to let the bottle breath for a couple minutes but it's not bad.

David

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