How do I lower a 1/25 scale car?

[derek8619]

I'm building a Revell 1/25 2010 Ford Mustang GT next. Ive noticed it sits high for my liking so I'd like to lower it however I have no idea how to go about doing this. Any suggestions?

[zenrat]

Easiest way is to drill new off centre mounting holes in the back of the wheels but just like in the real world there are a million ways to lower a car and you really need someone with specific knowledge of this kit to tell you what to do.

However, failing that study the parts, work out how it all works and figure out which parts you'd have to modify to get it nearer the ground.

Edited March 21, 2013 by zenrat

[Ace-Garageguy]

Part of it depends on how low you want to go, and how realistic you want it to be.

To lower the front of many independently suspended cars in real life, you install 'dropped spindles', which simply have the axles relocated UPWARDS which lowers the car. You can do the same thing on a model by cutting the axles off of the front spindles and re-positioning them upwards by the same amount you want to lower the car. Some actual care and measuring will be helpful. This approach should work on your Mustang, is more realistic than just gluing the wheels on off-center, but takes more work and thought.

To lower the rear of the real car, you'd put in shorter springs, which lower the body to the ground. If you cut the rear springs on your model the same amount you want to lower the car, that will do it.

WARNING DANGER DANGER !!!!! Whenever you lower the suspension on a real car or a model, you very often run into other things that have to be modified slightly for fit and clearance. Work carefully, pay attention to how things go together, and what else may need to be changed. You may very well have to make more clearance inside the wheel wells to get it all to fit properly.

NOTE...GOOD TIP !!! I strongly suggest you mock-up your model on the stock suspension and carefully measure the ground clearance as it comes, on both ends. Then remove the suspension and block the car up at the height you want it to sit at. See if the wheels / tires you're using will actually still fit inside the fenders at that height, and if NOT, see where the problem lies, and fix it.

Also, if you subtract the measurement of the ride height that you want it it be LOWERED, from the ride height it is STOCK, that will tell you exactly how much you need to relocate your front axles on the spindles, and how much to cut the rear springs.

It's all just like real cars, only smaller.

[Blown03SVT]

It's all just like real cars, only smaller.

This... so a S197 Mustang would be dropped in 1:1 via coils and new dampers or air bags. Depends on how low and how much clearance around the wheel houses and moving parts. No brake lines or ill handling effects in scale so in essence its easier.

[Ace-Garageguy]

It's all just like real cars, only smaller.

This... so a S197 Mustang would be dropped in 1:1 via coils and new dampers or air bags. Depends on how low and how much clearance around the wheel houses and moving parts. No brake lines or ill handling effects in scale so in essence its easier.

I suggested he move the stub axles on the spindles in front, as that approach avoids having to mess with control arms. Everything stays the same but the location of the stub-axle on the spindle. If you cut the front springs, you have to modify a bunch of other stuff on the model, and you somewhat screw the suspension geometry on the real one.

Edited March 19, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy

[Blown03SVT]

good call... in essence a drop spindle. I wasn't trying to send him down the wrong path but rather trying reinforce that lowering is a model akin to lowering the real thing. The rear will still need to have the coils cut down as that car would look odd sharply raked

[Ace-Garageguy]

good call... in essence a drop spindle. I wasn't trying to send him down the wrong path but rather trying reinforce that lowering is a model akin to lowering the real thing. The rear will still need to have the coils cut down as that car would look odd sharply raked

Exactly. All spelled out in post #3 above.

[Blown03SVT]

somewhere in the midst of me to impart something useful to this post that you didnt already bring to light I seem to have proven why it is always important to review what we have learned along the way. . We all have our days I guess

[Austin T]

Talk to your local shade tree mechanic he can recomend just cutting the springs down a little. And trust me it works on the revell mustang kits very well.

[kalbert]

Talk to your local shade tree mechanic he can recomend just cutting the springs down a little. And trust me it works on the revell mustang kits very well.

Cutting is fine, just don't heat them... You'll be sorry you did on the model and the real thing!

[Ace-Garageguy]

somewhere in the midst of me to impart something useful to this post that you didnt already bring to light I seem to have proven why it is always important to review what we have learned along the way. . We all have our days I guess

Sorry man, I didn't intend to be rude or mean...everything you said was spot-on...I was just pointing out it had already been covered and I agreed with you.

[Ace-Garageguy]

...... And trust me it works on the revell mustang kits very well.

It works on the front with NO other modifications?

[Blown03SVT]

Sorry man, I didn't intend to be rude or mean...everything you said was spot-on...I was just pointing out it had already been covered and I agreed with you.

No harm... just felt like an idiot. LOL

[Jantrix]

Set it on the floor.