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Jerry Norton

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    Gerald (Jerry) Alan Norton

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  1. Bill, My comments were based on buffing the metalizer, but I gotta be honest, I haven't tried an acrylic clear. May have to give it a shot. My favorite combo on the vintage racing engines I do is stainless steel lock, buffed and then hit with the Humbrol Clear Satin. Then for the exhaust I use titanium unbuffed and coated. Happy Birthday America Jerry
  2. I just recently finished reading through all 72 pages of Tips And Techniques. Took some time, but enjoyed every minute of it. This why I love car modeling, people share their ideas, tip and techniques. No so much in the aircraft community. I should know. I'm 71 years old and have been steadily modeling since 1969. Being a career Air Force guy, I naturally gravitated to aircraft and then some wise guy somewhere came out with resin cast classic sports racing cars. I was hooked. To get to my point. I read a lot of entries in T and T about clear coating items painted with Testor's metalizers. I would like to add my 2 cents (which is actually worth about 0.0005 of a cent ). I can screw up a paint job just by looking at it. So when I'm done spraying a part with metalizer, I clear coat it with Humbrol Satin Varnisher thinned 1-1 with Humbrol thinner. I don't think it makes the part look "toy-like" and does protect the finish. In fact, in some cases seems to enhance the metal look. Just another possibility you could try when you have absolutely nothing else to do at your workbench. Keep modeling everybody - it's a fabulous hobby
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