MustangGuy23 Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Ive recently started work on a Revell 1/25 scale Ford F250. I've seen a little on this topic, but not what I'm looking for. Can someone please explain or give me ideas on how to put a lift kit on it? I want it to have a rougher look. Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Are you talking about the 87-91 extended cab long bed F-250? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MustangGuy23 Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 Yep. It's 1/24 scale. Sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91blaze Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 What I would do is put spacers between the leaf springs and the frame. It's easy, just use sprue pieces if you don't have anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 (edited) In that kit the rear axle is separate from the leaf springs, you can put lift blocks between the springs and axle. In the front you will need to put a block on the bottom of the K member where both TTB arms mount under the oil pan. You will also have to add blocks on top of the piece that is the coil spring and shock where it meets the frame. The truck will still be two wheel drive though. With a little modification you can use the front end parts from the Monogram Bronco kit to make it a 4x4. Edited July 4, 2012 by Fat Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 What I would do is put spacers between the leaf springs and the frame. It's easy, just use sprue pieces if you don't have anything else. This kit is only leaf srung in the back, it has the TTB front end setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91blaze Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Sorry, I thought it was solid front axle, never heard of the TTB setup, I'm more of a Chevy guy anyways. What years did they use the TTB setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MustangGuy23 Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 Thanks so much. This is the first model I've ever taken my time on and customized. I think using parts I have I may be able to convert it to 4 wheel drive with leaf springs in the front. What's the easiest way to strip chrome plating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 The easiest way to strip chrome is with Windex or bleach or Purple Power. Sorry, I thought it was solid front axle, never heard of the TTB setup, I'm more of a Chevy guy anyways. What years did they use the TTB setup? TTB is Twin Traction Beam, it is a 4x4 version of a terrible IFS design Ford came up with in the early sixties. Instead of the dual A arm suspension Chevy used Ford mounted the front tires on a beam that was hinged under the oil pan and held in place by a radius rod that wouldn't feel out of place on a Model T. This causes the camber of the tire to change dramatically through the suspension arc. The system is nearly impossible to align and the 4x4 version is even worse when lifted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91blaze Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Seems similar to the dangerous Corvair suspension, if I'm not mistaken. Not a very good design. And I'm pretty sure my mom's '94 F150 has a solid axle, which is why I thought this truck would be the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 A 94 F-150 should have this suspension, only the F-350 4x4s had straight axles. It is kind of like the Corvair suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MustangGuy23 Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 I found an axle and some springs on an old junker car. Now to get them off... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91blaze Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 A 94 F-150 should have this suspension, only the F-350 4x4s had straight axles. It is kind of like the Corvair suspension. I guess I'll have to look in the morning, I never noticed. I found an axle and some springs on an old junker car. Now to get them off... Good luck on the swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MustangGuy23 Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 Thanks for the help. I'll post pics soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bart68 Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 (edited) The easiest way to strip chrome is with Windex or bleach or Purple Power. TTB is Twin Traction Beam, it is a 4x4 version of a terrible IFS design Ford came up with in the early sixties. Instead of the dual A arm suspension Chevy used Ford mounted the front tires on a beam that was hinged under the oil pan and held in place by a radius rod that wouldn't feel out of place on a Model T. This causes the camber of the tire to change dramatically through the suspension arc. The system is nearly impossible to align and the 4x4 version is even worse when lifted. Yes and no, Ford used the IFS in 4x4's from 1980 to 1996, GM Used a live axle/leaf spring set up till 1988 ford used a live axle/Coil spring set up from 1967 untill 1979 in the 4x4's. and they swiched to the IFS 4x4's 8 years before GM and 14 years before Dodge. I have had a few IFS Fords years ago and my Diesel I have now is and have never had any issue with them. But yes all 1960 to 1996 2 wheel drive half ton's and 3/4 tons have an IFS front. Edited July 4, 2012 by Bart68 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MustangGuy23 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 After many difficulties, I've decided to scrap the 4x4 conversion and turn it into a tow truck for use with "Taylor Classic Restorations", my future body shop diorama. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1930fordpickup Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 (edited) The only thing wrong with the Ford front end is the person that is not trained properly to align it properly . My Dads truck 430,000 miles and my truck 230,000 . You just need to find a good shop guy's. These were driven on Pothole filled Michigan roads. LOL Edited July 7, 2012 by 1930fordpickup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longbox55 Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 The only thing wrong with the Ford front end is the person that is not trained properly to align it properly . My Dads truck 430,000 miles and my truck 230,000 . You just need to find a good shop guy's. These were driven on Pothole filled Michigan roads. LOL Trust me, Brian is 100% right on the TTB. Balljoints, radius arms bushings, and center pivots all waer out early on them. Aligning isn'st too bad, if you know what you're doing, but even then they can be tricky to get in spec for camber/caster. That's due to the way the adjustment is done, using an offset bushing in the upper balljoint. Sometimes, you have to sacrifice one to get the other in. The 2wd Twin I beam sufferes from the same problems. I do like it when they come in the shop, though, 'cause the $$$$$$ start dancing in my eyes! $85/hr @ 4.5 hrs to change the balljoints @ 24% commison rate (I can do the job in about 2) plus $89 for the alignment (not including alignment bushings if needed) really goes toward making my day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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