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1959 Chevy Impala----Just a tease! 4/9/16


MrObsessive

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So glad to have you back with us. I missed the inspiration of your w.i.p.s What a pleasue to move through your posts of the last few pages and appreciate what great modeling is all about.

Condolences on the death of your father. Like others here, I have gone through it too. It's a draining experience and it takes time to re-orient away from the work and responsibilities of caring for someone who mostly likely occupied a large part of your existence in those last months and years. So... welcome back!

P.S. I love the self portrait!

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Niko, It does seem to sit a bit too far back, but that might be due to Revell "overextending" the cowl a bit. When I swapped roofs I used the entire cowl and all ('60 is slightly different than the '59), but I got rid of the overhang that would sit beneath the trailing edge of the hood when closed. This seems to alleviate the problem a bit. In the pic below you can see this cowl extension on the original '59 roof before I cut it off.......

OK Niko, here's a pic of the engine in the car for the moment..............you can see where I had cut off the "extra" in the cowling which the '60 body had as well.

Pc234941-vi.jpg

Yeah, it does sit a bit too far back according to the 1:1 pics I'm working from..................but hold the phone...........

The problem seems to lie in the placement of the molded in trans mount. Now I suppose I could move this piece forward a bit moving the engine forward, but then that would change the length of the exhaust------then there's the aspect of moving the engine too far forward, and having the fan butt up against the radiator. Not a good thing!

As it stands right now I think I better leave well enough alone.........I've got enough engineering troubles ahead of me for the moment. ;)

Thanks for good information and pictures, Bill!

I've thought about cutting that extra as well. It looks pretty good like that, yep it might be a bit far back still, but it looks already much better. Thanks, I will do that same thing with my builds as well.

See I have a '60 Nomad resin body waiting for my skills to improve and then I'm planning on building many more versions of the '60 and '59 as I've built one Mild Custom already.

Edit: And of course Merry Christmas!

Edited by W-409
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Awesome! Question: where do you buy those carbuerator linkages? And it you built them..what did you use?

Jeff, the linkages are some old Detail Master pieces that I've had for years. I have to improvise the placement and the "look" of where I want them to be for some semblance of realism. Thanks for asking!

Tell me more about the magnifiers, you have on your glasses. They look like just what I need.

Those magnifiers can be had for dirt cheap on eBay-------I've located two. One here and here. ;)

I believe the second link is the company that I bought mine from. Most of the time I only need the first lens. If I have both of them on, it's literally like looking through a microscope..............they are THAT strong!

Hope this helps!

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What size and type of servos are you looking for? I have a toolbox full of R/C parts and equiptment.

Marshall, I'd have to do some digging around to see what type it would take. I've had it for about 10 years and I believe it's an old Cox RC unit but I could be wrong. Here's a better pic of what it looks like hanging from the ceiling...........

P9052638-vi.jpg

As you can see the cockpit bubble is really yellowed. I remember someone telling me a while back that this one may date back to the '70s. Maybe you have some background on where this originated? :unsure:

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Ah yes the old Bell 47. The first PD choppers were these types. Exhale forcefully and you fogged the entire bubble.

I am truly enjoying watching this build unfold. I'm glad you have come back after all the trials and tribulations. Stay strong brother.

Merry Christmas.

G

Edited by Agent G
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Jeff, the linkages are some old Detail Master pieces that I've had for years. I have to improvise the placement and the "look" of where I want them to be for some semblance of realism. Thanks for asking!

Those magnifiers can be had for dirt cheap on eBay-------I've located two. One here and here. ;)

I believe the second link is the company that I bought mine from. Most of the time I only need the first lens. If I have both of them on, it's literally like looking through a microscope..............they are THAT strong!

Hope this helps!

Glad to see you back Bill & sorry for your loss. I myself haven't built in over a year but that was because I finally built myself a full size lowrider and spent the year at shows and cruises. Thanks for posting the links to the magnifiers, I have been wearing glasses since right after Christmas last year when an eye exam discovered I have an astigmatism in one eye, and I just order the second set listed as its now uncomfortable to wear the headband magnifiers with glasses

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Any chance of an up date ?

Not much really picture worthy at this point. I did spend some time today tightening up the shut lines on the opening panels-------namely the trunk and one of the doors. I'm a big believer in the 3x5 card approach in determining shut lines as seen in this pic below on this Turbine Car I was building a while back...................

P2041066-vi.jpg

If you can slip your card through without binding....then it should be good to go as far as paint. Paint will take up some of the thickness so you don't want your shut lines too tight. The '59 will need to have some trim as well to the tops of the doors, as well as the quarter window sills. I'll replicate that with some styrene strip.

Tomorrow, I'm going to paint the chassis with red oxide primer------then do the edges with a slight overspray of Roman Red. Next comes painting the frame rails (carefully!), and then start to get the suspension together. I'll post pics when there's enough done to make it worthwhile posting. :D

Thanks everyone for the well wishes and encouragement!

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Just a little bit of an update today since I'm off for New Years. :)

I painted the chassis with Rustoleum Red Oxide Primer as was typical for GM chassis' of the '50's and '60's. After this was dry, I hand painted the frame rails with Polly S Engine black. Unfortunately, this paint has been discontinued last I knew, but word has it that another company may pick it up.

This paint is perfect BTW, for those that want a really nice looking vinyl interior. It has just the right sheen.......not too shiny and not dull. Just the right in-between look.

PC294945-vi.jpg

When everything was dry, I very lightly sprayed the perimeter of the chassis with '59 Chevy Roman Red. My local auto paint jobber mixed this color for me in a half pint size............that was nice as I can add my own thinner/reducer to my liking, and not have to deal with decanting paint from finicky spray cans.

P1014950-vi.jpg

I went ahead and sprayed the inner fenders on the trunk as well-----these would be seen when the trunk is open. The pics I have of the 1:1 show that these were painted body color. Not too worried about the unfinished appearance of the trunk floor. This will be covered by a fabric "mat" of some sort. I'll have to see what I've got lying around. ;)

P1014947-vi.jpg

Went ahead and sprayed the firewall as well.........pics show that this too was body color. The plastic you see on the sides of the chassis is my trusty 'ol Parafilm. This'll keep the paint from wearing away too much on the sides as I'll be doing a LOT of handling to get things together. BTW, the engine is not placed in permanently as of yet--------just shown for appearance sake to see where things are going to fall every step of the way.

Now hindsight being 20/20, I maybe should have filled in those firewall slots...........Not sure if I'm going to have the hood hinge on those or just lift off.

P1014949-vi.jpg

While the ambition struck me, I went ahead and airbrushed some of the suspension pieces, radiator and its bulkhead, and the shroud gloss black. Paint was Plastikote's Lacquer Black, but to be on the safe side, I brushed on a couple coats of Future Floor Wax to ward off any crazing before painting.

P1014951-vi.jpg

Later on, I'm going to run the brake and fuel lines on the chassis, then attach the exhaust, and then the suspension will go on. The gas tank will be painted and reattached down the road as well.

That's all for now and thanks for tuning in!

Edited by MrObsessive
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Looking mighty fine, Bill.

Did I read right? You use Future before painting?

Yup! Of course, you let it dry before painting! :lol: But it works great for those times when you want to paint something small with a hot paint, but don't want to go through the hassle of primering the part, cleaning the airbrush out again, etc.

Seals out that nasty yellow and red plastic too! ;)

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I cut the 1st door off my 1st ever model tonight ('70 Plymouth Roadrunner). I had no idea how to re-attach it and make it open. After reading this entire thread I'm wondering what I've gotten myself into ...... However, I'm also energized by the beauty of what you've got here.

Thanks for the detailed pictures/videos along the way. They will help me with my progress as I work my way through my first ever hinged build.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a small update this time around as I FINALLY have the chassis and its bits and pieces about 98% done! There are a few very minor details I want to add before it's all said and done. Here are some pics to show what we have so far............

I wanted to add emergency brake detail to the chassis-----X-frame bodies are interesting in that the cables run practically through the inside of the frame, exiting out the rear to meet up with the rear wheels. It would have been interesting to see this car come down the assembly during late '58 into '59 to see how it all came together.

Here's a pic of some bead wire soldered on to H-Channel brass to represent to the cable "horseshoe".........I couldn't get the pin to be exactly centered on to the horseshoe, but you get the idea. ;)

P1094967-vi.jpg

Now here are some beauty shots of the chassis..............

P1194978-vi.jpg

P1184970-vi.jpg

P1184971-vi.jpg

I have some straightening out of the rear brake line on the axle to do yet.

I got the inner fenders painted and reattached to the chassis. I wanted to make sure everything is copacetic as far as fit is concerned-----here's how things are looking so far...........

P1184974-vi.jpg

Of course, I'll need the radiator and its shroud put on the bulkhead, but no problems so far as the hood goes on with no trouble, and there wasn't a lot of fighting to get the chassis on the body.

Now I need to see how the stance is going to be with the wheels test fitted on the front and rear suspensions...............

P1194975-vi.jpg

P1194976-vi.jpg

P1194977-vi.jpg

Now it's on to the interior----------the interior will be red to match the exterior. I want it to look much like this below...........

HA0413155809_5-vi.jpgSC0513154222_5-vi.jpg

Of course mine won't be air conditioned......... :P

One BIG hurdle I'll have to deal with shortly is the glass. Cars of the late '50's early '60's (actually any year car) SCREAM for clear distortion free glass! One of my pet peeves with a lot of the kits out there is their out of scale appearance when looking at the model from the outside in. Too wavy, too thick and sometimes just doesn't plain fit right. :angry:.

I'm going to try a "plunge molding technique" which I saw someone else do here on the board. I have all the materials I need, and I'll of course put the results here on this thread so stay tuned!

Thanks so much for looking!

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that is a lot of great work, I would like to ask if you have any more work left to do on the driveshaft/u-joints.

My experiences with late 50's universal joints (my first car was a 57 Ford Town Victoria) didn't have the molding lines present on the ones in your photos (but that doesn't mean the ones you have chosen to replicate don't have them).

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Thanks Mike!

For the E-Brake lines, I used the shielding found inside coax cable (I've got a bunch of it since I work with cables), and this was wrapped around .015" dia. bead wire. I just simply kept pushing the coiling together to represent shielding. This was also the same shielding wire I used to make the return spring on the 348's throttle linkage. It's just thin enough to look in scale for springs and such.

Thanks for asking!

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that is a lot of great work, I would like to ask if you have any more work left to do on the driveshaft/u-joints.

My experiences with late 50's universal joints (my first car was a 57 Ford Town Victoria) didn't have the molding lines present on the ones in your photos (but that doesn't mean the ones you have chosen to replicate don't have them).

Hmmm............that is a great question!

The U-Joints are now pretty much set in stone------I didn't have any close-up pics showing any of GM's '59 U-Joint set up including the one I'm working on. I have seen transmission case castings where there was a parting line of sorts-----not a real defining parting line, but one could tell where the molds came together. The drive shaft in the kit had a heavy parting line which was a bear to get rid of----------the ones on the universal joints got overlooked though on my part. ;)

I'd imagine some U-Joints might have those parting lines since they are cast as opposed to being forged. That one is beyond me though as far as this era of car.

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