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Peterbilt wrecker


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I'll be starting this kit pretty soon. I'll do it exactly as shown in the box art. My question is how to do the red stripes between the white and black colors. I was hoping the red stripes were decals but they are not. I'm stuck here. Thanks for the tips.

Angel

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I thought about masking it but my skill level is not that good I think. I might try Terry's idea.

Sean; I searched for the post you referred to but could not find it.

nothing to it really. paint the white first, paint the whole body. let that dry/cure. after it's cured, mask off the white parts you want to keep, and clear coat the whole thing, let that dry, but not completely cure, then paint the dark color, let that dry for a day or so, then un mask it. after that is fully dry/cured, mask off the area you want stripes, clear it again, let that dry a day or so, then paint the red, let it dry a bit, then un mask. when fully dry, clear it again, and you're done. I do my two tones this way. I also use lacquer paint, dry times will be longer for enamel.

if nothing else, try it out on something else, worst case, it goes into the pond to strip the paint.

the clear coats help keep the colors from bleeding thru into one another. here are a few examples,

photo_zps03ef6d6f.jpg

photo_zpsad22d565.jpg

photo_zpsdd5a1b77.jpg

give it a try, you'll be glad you did.

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I don't sand between coats,unless I get a bunch of dust/junk in the paint. I usually let the actual base color dry/cure pretty good, otherwise you get tape residue [then ya gotta wet sand] when you un mask. I usually get in a hurry and just let the first coat of clear tack up for 20 minutes, then shoot my second color, if it covers well, i'll unmask it in 20-30 minutes and let it cure from there. I should wait longer though, as sometimes when I peel the tape off, the top coat and clear are a bit 'stringy' and will sometimes cause some of the paint line to not be crisp. best bet is to experiment on a body and get the 'feel' for it. took me a few tries to get where I can repeat the process without catastrophic failure, lol.

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I'm a fan of using the stripe color as the base coat (in this case red), then masking off the thin stripes, spraying some clear, then spraying the other colors with a coat of clear between each color. This is how I got the thin red stripes separating the shades of blue on this KW:

005_zps2654cd69.jpg

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Angel, I have had pretty good luck using PACTRA TRIM TAPE. A roll is 72" long and the tape is pre-cut in several different widths. It is also offered in several colors (strangely.... not in green however). I like to keep a couple of rolls of white and black on hand.

The type of stripe work you're looking to create should be fairly easy, My advice would be to cut the pieces a bit LONGER than the surface you're working and tuck the ends on to the back of the body section. That way you can gently stretch the tape as you lay it down on the body for a tighter look. You'll want to burnish the tape down as you work.

I have found that using the molded in detail of the kit (in case of the Peterbilt's hood, working just under the rivet strip that separates the side and top of the hood, as well as laying the tape down between rivets on the body itself works best (less bumps= less to burnish down over).

Incidentally, the tape will work o.k. on curves, but I've not had the greatest results. I really like KJ's suggestion of painting stripes and then masking (going to give that a try on my next Salem paint scheme).

Check R/C type hobby shops in your area (I have NOT found it at places like: Michaels, AC Moore etc). A roll should cost around 8-10 bucks (giver or take).

Terry's Idea of tape from a automotive/body shop might be an even better as far as cost goes (going to give that a try as well!)

Above all, as Tom and most other friends here have mentioned...practice on a junk body first and get the feel for it. and if it doesn't work the first time, its easy enough to strip and give it another go.

Good luck Angel, and show us how you did!

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I too have had good results with 1:1 pinstripe tape,method I use is for finer thin stripes is to apply it to a piece of glass,then use a straight-edge and x-acto knife to split the tape into smaller widths,takes some practice,but the results are worthwhile,and after applying to the galss,the tape is not so tacky,can be appied better and moved around more. I use a toothpick to burnish,and go around rivets and such,time consuming? yes,but works good for me!......................Mark

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