Pining Parts to Models

[Miatatom]

I don't know if it's spelled that way but is there a tutorial or good thread explaining how to pin parts?

My main questions are:

How do you determine where to drill the part or the model in order to ensure that the parts are lined up when assembled?

What size pins do you use and what material are they made from?

[BigTallDad]

What parts are you pinning? Small ones, such as outside rear-view mirrors, door-handles, etc. ? If you're dealing with plastic, the following might help (all bets are aside with other materials, such as die-cast, paper, and so on):

As far as the make-up of the pins, I use styrene rod the same diameter as the holes drilled.

While in the primer stage, set the part in place, outline where it fits on the body, then drill a tiny hole in the strongest structural part (with regard to the part) of that area. Tape the part on the area and then, from the inside, drill a corresponding hole on the part (but not so deep as to damage the part).

Glue some styrene rod (same size as the drill size or slightly smaller) in the part, then trim the rod back to about 1/32" or so.

After painting, make sure the pin on the part fits, making adjustments as necessary, in the desired location. Apply your favorite adhesive, and attach the part.

[High octane]

I use # 12 guitar string for pinning and it works great for me. I also use 5-Minute Epoxy for gluing the guitar string.

[hedotwo]

I've used both methods described above but prefer wire for really small parts, held with a minuscule drop of CA. The thin wire is strong and the hole needed can be kept really small as well. I like using plastic rod as well for other applications and always prefer to not use CA if I can so being able to use regular styrene cement is a plus.

Both work, the key is drilling the hole in the right spot

Like everything, the more you do it, the better you get.

[afx]

There are a variety of sources for the metal pins:

• I bought a variety pack of straight pins in the sewing section of Michaels. It includes several different sizes or gauge pins. You can cut them to whatever length you need. Some times I leave the head in place to simulate a rivet or a bolt head.
• Paper clips or bulk wire
• But my favorite is .020 brass rod

A variety of styrene rods sizes works great for pins as well.

Methods to installs:

• Replace the molded in mounting pin with a longer styrene pin or a metal pin.
• You can mount the pin to the larger part then glue he smaller part to the pin or vice-versa; install the pin in the smaller part then glue it to the larger part.
• When possible holding the part in it desired location drill through the smaller part into the larger part. This will insure the pin location are aligned.
• If the above method is not preferable. install the pin in the part at "eyeball' the pin location on the larger part.

Some examples:

[Tom Geiger]

I try to pin everything I can. Joe Cavorley taught me the technique many years ago. He could completely assemble one of his nearly scratch built trucks with pins, then once it was built he'd take it apart and paint everything.

Here's an example on pinning mirrors onto a model body. The actual work gets done way before anything gets painted. The mirrors are just pinned on, and they stay right in place. This was a model that would get shipped a few times and was used as box art. I wasn't sure how they'd want to photo it with some of the accessories, so I never glued any of them. Funny thing, this model sits in my case today with the mirrors still pinned.

Important note - look at the right side mirror, you can see the pin inside the body. I use regular straight pins for my work. I will cut off the pin end, and mount the part on the whole straight pin. I will keep parts that way through the painting phase, using the pin as a handle. Once ready to commit the part to the model I will snip the pin to the needed length. And another good thing. Mirrors, door handles and the like can be glued on the inside of the body, so there's never a worry about getting glue on your painted surface.

Here's a sample engine, just to show all the pins. The distributer is pinned to the engine, and you can see all the pins ready for the carb, hoses and manifold exhaust. Much better than counting on all those little kit nubs to mount parts.

This exhaust system is made from 8 pieces, all pinned together. The parts came from a '71 Duster dual exhaust system, along with the cat converter from the Volare kit. When designing and building an exhaust, there is a length of pin between each part. Just like hanging a real exhaust, I leave them all loose until I twist all the pieces in place. Once it's done, that's when I'll glue the joints, just like you'd tighten up all the brackets on a 1:1

Here's the above exhaust system in the finished model.

Hope this helps!

[Foxer]

I/m a firm believer in pinning ... I'm always adding pins for positive location and strength. All my newer builds have no missing outside rear view mirrors!

I also agree locating the pins perfectly opposite in two parts can sometimes be tough. BigTallDad's suggestions were very good. I have a series of 1/2" long brass tubes I use to center pins into round pieces. I start with the largest that will slip over the end of the rod to be drilled and insert the others into it. The smallest fits my drill bit tightly and I get the hole dead center.

I have also been pinning a lot of wheels that is the result of much wheel swapping. It has become standard practice for even the kit wheels. Two sleeves that fit tightly allow perfect fit and many mockups as well as strength. I use brass tubes but have used plastic tubes where it works. Plastic tubes will allow you to drill out the inside so it will slip over a positive ring on the part you are attaching to. A larger interlocking tube on the other part will give a positive mount.

[High octane]

I think that the guitar string is a lot easier to work with than straight pins, and just as strong.

[espo]

I have to agree with the others here, once you start "pinning" your builds you my wonder how you ever kept them together before. What I have used with great results is just using Staples from my stapler. They are easily cut to length and are very small diameter, and inexpensive. I'm financially challenged.

[426-Hemi]

-When I have to "pin" I use a small diameter wire, CA glue and off to the races I go.....

Sadly, I been pondering what I'm gonna use to glue/pin the west coast style mirrors to my 2 trucks being built! As they're chrome, and go onto a black finished cab..... OUGHT to be FUN as the mirror "bracket" are thin, plus they're chromed as I said.....

Edited May 26, 2015 by 426-Hemi

[BigTallDad]

-Sadly, I been pondering what I'm gonna use to glue/pin the west coast style mirrors to my 2 trucks being built! As they're chrome, and go onto a black finished cab..... OUGHT to be FUN as the mirror "bracket" are thing, plus they're chromed as I said.....

Use an approach similar to drilling distributor caps

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=101796

Use tubing slightly larger than the diameter of the support brackets and cut it a little bit longer. The multiple-size tubing will center the bit and the extra length will keep it straight.

Edited May 26, 2015 by BigTallDad

[426-Hemi]

Thanks Ray, I'm just not sure I got enough "bulge" for a centering pipe to work as the west coast mirrors on both the Dodge trucks I have, truly have VERY little "bolt head" for a pipe to ride on long enough to get a drill through it, without breaking it, (I got 1 chance) on a set of 2 ...... I have do do this, trick, 3 times, for one mirror, and I have 4 mirrors to do!!!!! I MAY, set out and solder up my OWN mirror brackets to fit just the center of the actual "mirror" itself, and chrome MY bracket from brass and drill the holes to fit my bracket work thats been chromed VIA Alclad, so..... I'm leaning towards that more then trying to pin the actual kits parts, they are some brittle! -We'll see!

[louie]

Hi everyone. Just wanted to say that I have never been to good at pinning parts but after reading this topic I know now what I have been doing wrong. I've had problems with getting glue where I don't want it and lining parts up. So now I am going to try it the ways that have been described here. Thanks everyone for the exellent advice.     Jeff

[Tom Geiger]

Thanks Ray, I'm just not sure I got enough "bulge" for a centering pipe to work as the west coast mirrors on both the Dodge trucks I have, truly have VERY little "bolt head" for a pipe to ride on long enough to get a drill through it, without breaking it, (I got 1 chance) on a set of 2 ...... I have do do this, trick, 3 times, for one mirror, and I have 4 mirrors to do!!!!! 

You don't have to drill out all the attachment points on each mirror. One pin per mirror should work.  Note these are only pinned at the top and the lower mount is just sitting against the body.  This one isn't even glued in this photo, and once the truck was finished, the fit was so good that I didn't glue them.  If indeed the non-pinned pieces don't sit exactly against the body, once you've glued in the pin (I like to glue them from behind) and it's solid, just pull the other mount points away from the body slightly, dab a little CA on it and set it back against the body.

I did pin both ends and I found it a pain to try to line both holes / pins straight.  The one hole way I do it now eliminates that fit issue.

See the mirrors below....

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

I pinned the windshield to this one. The car's going to be black, the fit of the frame has to be perfect, and I can't risk glue blobs on the finished model. The windshield will also be removable to allow the model to be displayed with a tonneau cover over the interior, for a dry-lakes racing look.

Early on in the build, I fitted the windshield frame quite carefully to the cowl, and then tacked it exactly in place with tiny drops of liquid cement.

When the joints were dry to handle, I used a fine-line marker to outline where the posts touched the cowl.

Then i snapped the joints loose, and drilled vertical holes DOWN from the top, in the dead-centers of the footprints I'd outlined.

Last step was to tack the windshield in place again, aligning carefully with the marks. I drilled UP through the previously-drilled holes in the cowl, into the bases of the windshield posts. Perfect alignment of the holes, exactly, no guesswork.

A small amount of final fitting of the base of the windshield frame will be required after the final thickness of paint is on the model, but as the windshield goes back in EXACTLY the same place every time, it's straightforward.

Here you can see the holes for the windshield posts.

 

 

Edited October 31, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy

[426-Hemi]

You don't have to drill out all the attachment points on each mirror. One pin per mirror should work.  Note these are only pinned at the top and the lower mount is just sitting against the body.  This one isn't even glued in this photo, and once the truck was finished, the fit was so good that I didn't glue them.  If indeed the non-pinned pieces don't sit exactly against the body, once you've glued in the pin (I like to glue them from behind) and it's solid, just pull the other mount points away from the body slightly, dab a little CA on it and set it back against the body.

I did pin both ends and I found it a pain to try to line both holes / pins straight.  The one hole way I do it now eliminates that fit issue.

See the mirrors below....

 

This would work, BUT the mirrors I have are a bit different and have 3 mounting locations to the door, just not having a lot protruding from the top most mount to make that happen... AND they're chrome......