Buying My First Airbrush (or Compressor) Questions.

[DiscoRover007]

Iwata CR is a tremendous airbrush. Durable, inexpensive, can spray all types of paint and easy to clean. Plus it's gravity feed which is a lot easier all around than a.

[randyc]

I have a Paasche VLS that my now ex wife bought me in 1991.  Lost the red thing on the back, but the "pros" got rid of that anyway.  Great thing about it is parts are available to replace as they wear out.  Needles, nozzles, etc.  Buy several of each and if you drop it and split the brass nozzle, you will have one.  Same with tip - if you split it at 11 pm, you need to have an extra.  Yes I know these things from experience.   And if it gets clogged, drop the whole thing in a jar of lacquer thinner for a spell.   I think I use a #3 needle, tip ,etc.  But you can mix and match them if you need to.  And the double action can be used like a sinlge action til you get used to the touch needed for double action use.   For me, it's the only airbrush I have ever needed for models and some sign projects in the past.  A whole setup was like $130 at hobby Lobby other week.  With a 40% coupon... that's about what mine was in 1991, I think - right around $100.   

In a painting session, I mix paint, spray.  Hang the tip down to feed tube on bottom over the egdge of a salsa jar of lacquer thinner.  Mix next color.  Spray the lacquer thinner thru the brush.  Sometimes I just spray through it with tip submerged (messy yes) - don't do this over your wife's floors - I was in shop on rough concrete.   Put next color up and go.  

look for the bottle cap adapter that works with testor MM bottles.  I rarely run out of bottles and caps.   You can cap your excess paint til the project is over or keep some semi flat black mixed and ready.  Or run thru the metallizers for a whole kit in one session.   And with practice and control paint most of a kit with airbrush in one or two sessions, leaving only the detail painting.  

My air supply is an air compressor I bought at lowes on sale for a couple hundred.  Has a 5 or 10 gallon tank.  I fill the tank til it cuts off and then cut the motor off.  Nothing like painting some little delicate part and the compressor kick on right beside you... and a filled tank will last a good session.  

just my experience.

Randy

Edited September 29, 2016 by randyc

[martinfan5]

Contrary to what some have said DON'T buy anything cheap.  You get what you pay for.  Sooner rather than later it'll break down or not work properly and you'll just get frustrated with the botched paint jobs, wasted time and wasted materials.

I recommend an Iwata HP-C Plus, Iwata I900 compressor and Iwata water trap.  

Someone above said that it's important to know how to take apart, clean and put back together the air brush BEFORE you shoot any paint.  He's absolutely right.

There's a great you-Tube video of a guy from Iwata taking apart, cleaning and putting back together this exact airbrush.

 

 

Sorry,  but I have to disagree with this ,   cheap is not always bad, case in point,  I have a Harbor Freight $20 air brush, I have had it for probably four years now, and that thing is built like a tank, I never had a problem with it, the thing is beat to heck, but guess what, it works just fine.   Compare that to the Paasche VL that I bought a few years ago,  less then six months of owning it, the hose broke, and that was just the start of the problems( I dont remember the other issues now),  I spent more time trying to get the POJ to work then I did actually painting with it.  

I finally decided that I was tired of using a crappy air brush, so I bought myself a Iwata Eclipse( turns out it was 2 for 1 deal) , and guess what, less than six months, the air cap went out, so I had to send it in for service too. 

So its kind of said that a $20 A/B has worked better than a $60-100 and a $140 plus air brush( not that I spent $140 on my Iwata)

[randyc]

Sorry,  but I have to disagree with this ,   cheap is not always bad, case in point,  I have a Harbor Freight $20 air brush, I have had it for probably four years now, and that thing is built like a tank, I never had a problem with it, the thing is beat to heck, but guess what, it works just fine.   Compare that to the Paasche VL that I bought a few years ago,  less then six months of owning it, the hose broke, and that was just the start of the problems( I dont remember the other issues now),  I spent more time trying to get the POJ to work then I did actually painting with it.  

I finally decided that I was tired of using a crappy air brush, so I bought myself a Iwata Eclipse( turns out it was 2 for 1 deal) , and guess what, less than six months, the air cap went out, so I had to send it in for service too. 

So its kind of said that a $20 A/B has worked better than a $60-100 and a $140 plus air brush( not that I spent $140 on my Iwata)

I looked at that Harbor Freight airbrush just now.  Looks like one I have seen before - possibly a clone of some other airbrush?   Can you get replacement parts for it?  I know my VLS needs parts occasionally, usually from me dropping it or something like that.  I don;t think there were too many other options when I bought mine in '91.  Not like today when there are so many choices.  

 

[martinfan5]

I looked at that Harbor Freight airbrush just now.  Looks like one I have seen before - possibly a clone of some other airbrush?   Can you get replacement parts for it?  I know my VLS needs parts occasionally, usually from me dropping it or something like that.  I don;t think there were too many other options when I bought mine in '91.  Not like today when there are so many choices.  

 

It very well could be a clone of something,  as for parts, I have no idea, I never had to get parts for it, so I just never bothered looking, but with such the low price, buying replacement parts would probably run close to what a whole new brush would cost.

[gtx6970]

 I have one of the Harbor Freight $9 air brushes . I like it. Its not a crown jewel by any stretch. But it was  less than $10 ,,,,,so my expectations weren't   that high to begin with. IF something should go wrong with it or I need parts. I'll throw  it away and go get another one .

But I keep thinking I might try the $20 one and see what it gets me . I rarely used an AB in the past but I'm finding a need for one more and more as I dive into these old annuals and OE stock colors

Edited October 8, 2016 by gtx6970

[Mike999]

I have an old Aztek A470 airbrush that I just repaired using the info in the link below.  It wasn't spraying at all, and I suspected gunk build-up around the paint valve. It was worse than that - the valve pin had separated from the valve completely, was no longer even connected to the valve, and the pin had jammed in the airbrush body.

Now the old Aztek is working like new again.  The hardest part of the job - getting up the nerve to crack open the airbrush body.  There are no screws or other connectors, it's just a press-fit together.

If you try this, work slowly and good luck!

http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/1492-taking-apart-the-body-of-your-aztek-a470-airbrush/

[DrewCfromSC]

been a while since ive posted. I'm looking for a nice under $200 (new or used) airbrush for house of kolors paints. really like my Paasche talon but it cloges up too much when using microflakes and some pearls. I cant get any larger tips or smaller flakes so I'm looking for another airbrush to use. Have a mini HVLP gravity feed paint gun but its too large for doing models. Thanks for the input everyone.

[Jhedir6]

been a while since ive posted. I'm looking for a nice under $200 (new or used) airbrush for house of kolors paints. really like my Paasche talon but it cloges up too much when using microflakes and some pearls. I cant get any larger tips or smaller flakes so I'm looking for another airbrush to use. Have a mini HVLP gravity feed paint gun but its too large for doing models. Thanks for the input everyone.

What's the current size of your brushes needle? I'm having issues with my Iwata Neo clogging up with certain brands of primer. It has a .35mm needle and sprays paint fine but clogs quick with primers. I've found a online vendor in the UK that has some really amazing prices on Harder and Steenbeck airbrushes. I'm upgrading to a Evolution 2 & 1. Price with shipping is 121.50 Pounds, with exchange its $200 CDN or $150 US. Cheapest I've found in Canada is around $270 CDN all in and $200 US all in from Ebay. This brush can be upgraded to a .6mm needle too, so there's room for a larger needle in the future. Good luck on your hunt, I'm sure others will recommend other brushes, this is the one I'm going with.

https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Harder-Steenbeck-Evolution-2-in-1-Airbrush.html#SID=145

David

 

Edited December 30, 2016 by Jhedir6

[DrewCfromSC]

my talon gravity is .38 and my talon siphon feed is .66

 

[Dusted1972]

The airbrush I use is a Blue Point that looks like a Badger and I've had it since 96 so I should probably upgrade,huh?Lol

I have used those Harbor Freight cheap airbrushes.They work "OK".The one plastic one with the fast color switching cups works ok for some stuff,but do not,I repeat DO NOT try cleaning the cups with lacquer thinner as they will melt.

As far as practicing goes,Ive found the best way to practice  is on a junk model car body.Or a spare body That way,you get more experience on model cars than you would on like paper.Practice with a paint you can easily strip off.I've used spare Testors enamels for practice on a junk body and just toss the body in purple power degreaser let if soak until the paint comes off and use it again for practice.Practicing on spare junk engines and wheels you don't plan on using for other projects works good too for practicing on small parts.

Edited January 15, 2017 by Dusted1972

[Pete J.]

What's the current size of your brushes needle? I'm having issues with my Iwata Neo clogging up with certain brands of primer. It has a .35mm needle and sprays paint fine but clogs quick with primers. I've found a online vendor in the UK that has some really amazing prices on Harder and Steenbeck airbrushes. I'm upgrading to a Evolution 2 & 1. Price with shipping is 121.50 Pounds, with exchange its $200 CDN or $150 US. Cheapest I've found in Canada is around $270 CDN all in and $200 US all in from Ebay. This brush can be upgraded to a .6mm needle too, so there's room for a larger needle in the future. Good luck on your hunt, I'm sure others will recommend other brushes, this is the one I'm going with.

https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Harder-Steenbeck-Evolution-2-in-1-Airbrush.html#SID=145

David

 

For some one who needs different sized tips for different paints, I would suggest the Badger Crescendo 175.  It is a very reasonably priced brush and you can by kits that have three different sized tips.  It is a good middle of the road choice for someone who spray with different paints .  I have had one for 15 years and the main problem I have with it is occasionally dropping it.  The tip is not protected at all(except with a metal cap you have to put on) so if it lands on the end, you are replacing the needle or tip.  The good part in all of this is that like the Paashe VL it has been around for ever so parts are readily available.  With three tips it is probably one of the most versatile airbrushes out there. 

[ewetwo]

I'm looking into buying an air brush also. But do they work with Testors enamel paints? I purchased a cigar box full of old Testors enamel paints. Some have 20 cents printed on the caps. Don't know the colors but thought there could be some interesting ones. But don't know if the enamel would screw the air brush up. Thanks.

[crazyjim]

Donn Yost uses Testors enamel all the time with fantastic results.

[ewetwo]

7 hours ago, crazyjim said:

Donn Yost uses Testors enamel all the time with fantastic results.

Do you have to thin it out a lot? It will be interesting to mix the old bottles of paint. Use them and see what they look like. :-)

 

[crazyjim]

Of course it has to be thinned.  Contact Donn. Maybe he'll tell you the secret or buy his DVD and it's all revealed.

[ewetwo]

What is the best choice. A gravity feed or a suction? I’m looking into buying an airbrush and see on YouTube a lot use the suction feed.

[peter31a]

David, unfortunately there is no "best choice". An airbrush is like any tool. It's what you get comfortable with.  A lot of people over time end up with 2 or more airbrushes depending on what they're using them for, what they find comfortable to use etc. Some like the front trigger styles while others like the top control. People do great work with a Paasche H which is a simple single action suction airbrush. Others prefer the more complicated but more versatile gravity feed double action brushes. Suction  feeds need slightly more air pressure to draw up the paint. If you're just starting a Paasche H would be a great place to start and guys like Donn Yost & Doctor Cranky still use them in their work.

[ewetwo]

Thank you Peter. 

 

 

[Miatatom]

4 hours ago, peter31a said:

 If you're just starting a Paasche H would be a great place to start and guys like Donn Yost & Doctor Cranky still use them in their work.

I totally agree. I wish I'd bought a Paasche H for my first airbrush.

[crazyjim]

First air brush was suction and I switched to gravity soon after.  Much easier to clean a gravity unit.

[Bugatti Fan]

Best thing is to decide what you want to do with the airbrush. Overall spraying or retail and mural work? Will you be using it frequently or on the odd occasion? Research what will suit your needs most and go for the best quality airbrush you can afford. Read up about the different types of airbrush and their capabilities as a little research can help here. Forums like this will show many different opinions, but in the end you must decide what will be the best for your needs and budget.

[Miatatom]

On 4/14/2018 at 5:12 PM, crazyjim said:

First air brush was suction and I switched to gravity soon after.  Much easier to clean a gravity unit.

That's another reason I recommend the Paasche H. I can clean mine thoroughly in less than 5 minutes and there are only 3 parts to clean.

[jchrisf]

On 3/22/2018 at 9:04 AM, ewetwo said:

I'm looking into buying an air brush also. But do they work with Testors enamel paints? I purchased a cigar box full of old Testors enamel paints. Some have 20 cents printed on the caps. Don't know the colors but thought there could be some interesting ones. But don't know if the enamel would screw the air brush up. Thanks.

Check out this video where Andy screws his Testors enamel paints right to his Paasche H.  The paint will fall back into the bottle when he is finished.  It should start on the part where he discusses it:

 

Edited June 4, 2018 by jchrisf

[jchrisf]

On 3/22/2018 at 4:12 PM, ewetwo said:

Do you have to thin it out a lot? It will be interesting to mix the old bottles of paint. Use them and see what they look like. :-)

 

Andy did another video with the Paasche H where he shows how to thin Testors enamels and how he paints with them.  Just real quick he gets a smooth, glossy paint job.  He mixes at a 1:1 ratio and it looks like a lot of paint but it is half Lacquer thinner which dries almost instantly when sprayed like this.  Incidentally, Amazon had the Paasche H at one of their lowest prices today and there was a 15% coupon that could be applied (shows up by the price, just click it if they are still offering it).  I got the Paasche H set with all three heads, hose, etc. for $49 shipped two day shipping.  I am a prime member if that makes a difference.

 

Edited June 4, 2018 by jchrisf