rex

A little late ... had to go west, some family stuff . . . Mr Dedo, Appreciate the post, glad you liked the 2013 car, Nova Pro Street, have seen this kit, hot rod parts, nice . . . Chuck Most, Very nice threesome you have there, thanks for sharing. Interesting, the Nova chassis works so well for you . . . fumi, Interesting, would have thought older release would have had crisper details. Often notice how crisp JoHan models are from way back when. Assume Chucks F85 is a JoHan model. Bob Ellis, Ironically, the bench would be preferred, will be using metal wheels, and rubber tires, from Sakatsu. unclescott58, Yeah, that mirror business has been raised previously about the older kit. Seems the 1988 kit had the mirror condition. From what I've gathered, it appears release date is not the big of a deal. Seems the production worker's pace may be just as important, as in cooling time, and like issues. Some have said Grumpy's is a nice kit, have about decided to do this one, don't need the hairy scoop, this car is to be a more modest street rod. Anyone have a take on the droopy top portion of the rear fender tail light panels? On the model decided to toss, there was a rather certain amount of plastic that didn't get up into the mold. To make a crisp body portion for the chrome taillight pieces to affix too. Or is this common? Since the bezels are fairly prominant, want them crisp, tight to the body. My real bail out on the white 1966 Nova AMT model was the atrocious hood fit, it wasn't close to square with the body. Moreover, the end portion of the pointy front fenders to receive the chrome headlights, bumper bar, grille, was literally not there. Besides, the front fenders were not right, one went up, the other down. I'm a decent builder, and there was no way, to correct all those issues. Anyhow, hope the next kit is far better. Some guys said, if the blue 2013 car is a mess, I can get new replacement. Is that true? As before, appreciate the help . . . Jas

midnightprowler, Seems the most any release is usually okay. Operator issues may be at fault. Glad your 2000 kit was fine. DirtModeler, Nova's are indeed cool rides. Once I land on the right release, if indeed it matters, will take me a long time to build, assuming I can actually build the model. Have very severe case of CTS, carpal tunnel syndrome in my left, dominate, hand. Pain is exquisite, makes doing anything most difficult, especially model building. When I use my left hand to do anything, these days, pain comes back like a storm. Chuck, Sorry to hear about CA flub, stuff, as they say, happens. Grumpy's, more goodies to be had, have noted that when at, say, eBay. Droopy, okay seems to be endemic in the release, too bad, since will make that area something to have to mess with. Won't be using the model's chassis. Still, appreciate the notation. Nice when modelers talk about model issues. As before, replies like these, are greatly appreciated, vand helpful . . .

midnightprowler, "Same tooling," seems you are saying tooling carried over. As such, wouldn't 1988 might be a better go? Less wear and tear, so to speak. Have noted 2000 edition as well, just didn't include, post was long already. Art Anderson, Okay, you mentioned mirror issue. Still, does it mean the 1988 tooled kits would have better details, and better hood to hood opening body fit? Mentioned wind screen. Isn't mirror correctable? Glass fit, is it okay? Horsepower, Guess mine was perhaps an "operator issue," since the model I messed with was so out of "square," could never get the hood, and hood opening to even come remotely close to fitting. Just wasn't wide front, narrow rear hood issues. Was that the car hood opening was so warped, no way to get all of it to cooperate. Rear fender tail light portion was not crisp on either side, plastic there was droopy at the top of the fender. That said, it was correctable. Chuck Most, Mirror again. Wouldn't the earlier release be better tooling, in that the molds wouldn't have suffered as much wear? Mirror, seems you guys feel the 1988 release to be, sort of untenable. I'd take better hood to body hood fit opening in lieu of correctable mirror condition. Does the mirror business interfere greatly with the glass? Appears you feel the mirror business, is sort of a show stopper. Really appreciate your help, and take on the AMT 1966 NOVA molding issue. I just really want the best injected plastic model outcome. Fit of hood to hood opening. How about 1998 release, would that be the best go? Thanking you all in advance . . . Jas

Hi, Please help regarding 1:25 scale 1966 NOVA model kits. Which one would you believe is the better kit? The 1:25 AMT NOVA slot car kit, hood fit to body opening, was so bad, could not finish it. My girlfriend bought the AMT model kit for me, so I must finish the car, keeping her happy, helps keep me happy. So, need to get another 1966 NOVA 1:25. Below are four examples, there are more . . . AMT KIT NO. AMT 6749, 1:25 1966 Chevy Nova, scale plastic model car kit from 1988 AMT KIT NO. AMT38554 1966 Resto Rods Chevrolet Nova, scale plastic model car kit from 1998 AMT KIT NO. AMT636, 1:25 1966 CHEVY NOVA PROSTREET, scale plastic model car kit from 2013 AMT KIT NO. 772-121966 Chevrolet Nova Bill Jenkins Grumpy's scale plastic model car kit from 2013 If you have some experience with the above AMT 1966 NOVA model kits, or other AMT Chevy NOVA kits. Would like to hear from you. So, what are the better "fitting" hood, to body NOVA kits, 1988, 1998 or 2013? The AMT 1966 Chevy NOVA model kit I had a terrible hood fit to body experience, was injected in 2013. This same kit also had less than sharp, droopy like rear tail light moldings as well. I assume 1988 would be best, from a tooling standpoint. Am I correct in that assumption? Or, did AMT create newer molds for different year releases? Which AMT Chevy NOVA model kits are better? Thanking you in advance for your help . . . Jas

Hi, Brand new to your forum. Usually, don't need engine details, since the engine is not exposed in most cars done. The engine I want to detail is a 1/24 scale. Am okay with distributor set up, has a small work sheet on "how to." Am okay with most other details, except lines & fittings! Looking at Cleveland 351. But, have no clue on the stuff below. If you tell me, I can do it. So, please inform me on the "how to" regarding the following. Engine is using common rail with six feeds to carburetors, with gauge at end of rail. Now, the following are my questions pertaining to affixing fuel, coolant, oil, brake fluids, etc. to an engine, using Metal A/N (Army/Navy) fittings and Metal Braids. Car is a dirt track racer, with engine really exposed. I'm just not knowledgeable enough to make it look authentic, engine wise, never had the need . . . 1) Generally what size (1, or 2, or 3?) metal Braided Line, and A/N fittings for a 6 pack of 2 barrel carburetors? 2) Generally coolant size hosing and A/N fittings to attach them to block and radiator. 3) Generally oil line size hosing and A/N fittings to attach them. 4) Line size for brake lines and appropriate fittings. 5) Will be also be doing 90 degree bends. What will I need for them? I've noted the following fittings, generally where and how are they used? Compression Combination Pipe Adapter Fittings Flare Am I missing a line, a fitting, whatever? I know this seems like a lot. But I figure many of you have done these before and know them like the back of your hand. Anyway, thanking you in advance for your help . . . Rex