post your homemade tools for building!

[markymarkr1]

I want to see some creative tools or strategies for building models.

[Miatatom]

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=77637&hl=glue

[FASTBACK340]

This is the lid from a factory-shipped air bag container. They are shipped as explosives and must be inside a metal container. I take the lids and find other uses for them.

Here I grabbed two lengths of steel rod I found in the scrap and bent them into "U"'s. I bent the tips outward and MIG welded them inside the lid. I then bent handles and welded them on either end.

Now I have a new paint stand.

[markymarkr1]

Awsome!

[deuces wild]

Anything else???

[southpier]

one of my most used tools is a block of wood (mahogany I think) about 1" x 2" x 4". I use it like a jewelers block. make a few different sizes and keep them in a cigar box over the bench for easy access. you won't be out a lot of money - or sorry you did.

[DR JAY]

...I'm assuming that I don't need to post a picture of the tool in this case: A Used-Up Bic Lighter. For my use, the lighter should be that specific brand as the shape suits my needs. I wrap a small piece of sandpaper around the lighter and tape it in place. The shape is perfect for modifying wheel arches as I primarily build 60s stock cars. I keep a few handy with different paper grits attached. They get used quite a bit in fabrication...I was quite surprised. Don't forget to remove the useful parts from the lighters; like the spring and fuel valves that can find uses in building. I think every build since I got back into the hobby in 97 has got at least one modified lighter component in it. (BTW- I use the lighters for bending stryene for roll cages...DON'T SMOKE, KIDS!)

[southpier]

I'm stealing this idea

[TooOld]

A couple of cone shaped washers from the faucet repair section at the hardware store hold tires perfectly for sanding .

A bolt with the head cut off is chucked in a variable speed drill and held in a vise . It works great !

[Cato]

^^^ Very cool Bob.

[gtx6970]

take a 12" long piece of an old ( or new ) 2x4 . drill some 1/8" holes in the wide side of it 2 each along each side spaced about 3 or 4" apart,

Take 2 old metal clothes hangers and bend them up the shape of a U.

insert the ends of said hanger in the holes on the board.

now bend the top edge of said hangers to to stick outwards.

Voila,,instant paint stand to do bodies.

not mine but something like this

Edited October 14, 2014 by gtx6970

[southpier]

my .... 2"x4"s have gotten much thinner

[Draggon]

Thats a great idea for tires Bob. I've been using different sized screwdriver handles and jamming them inside the tires. I like your way better

[Kit Basher]

Here are a couple: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64826&hl=sprue

[DaveM]

I used to wrap sandpaper around screwdriver tips, pencils, putty knives and any other shape I could find for sanding contour. Later, I bought some abrasive grits and took dental picks and awls and screwdrivers. I bent the awls, ground the screwdrivers into different shapes and then dipped them in CA and then the abrasive grit. Instant sanding tools and micro files. I made all kinds of custom shapes and sizes from coarse to very fine. (This is also a great way to use up those damaged screwdrivers we all have laying about)

I take the larger X-acto holder and put two #11 blades into it. For thin lines, I can just put the blades next to each other and tweak them a bit. For thicker lines I put a spacer, or a bit of tape on the inside edge of one of the blades. Then, I mask with either very thin tape, or BMF. Then I use the two headed X-acto monster to remove a fine strip of the masking material. Then I airbrush on my stripe color. and remove the mask. Instant pinstripes. This tool also works to cut stripes out of decal paper, but really thin settings will make it hard to apply the decal.

I also used a mini eyedropper or a small syringe (disposable of course) to make drops of glue on a sheet of wax paper. If you are vertical, and careful and don't smudge or drag the drop while laying it down, it will dry almost perfectly round. This works for gauge faces, dome lights, plastic jewels in the older window crank knobs and gearshift knobs. It can even make headlight lenses, parking lights, foglamps and the like. If you use epoxy, if can be tinted for side marker lights, colored jewels and many other things. If you want a shiny looking lens, back it with foil instead of wax paper. If you back it with saran wrap, it will stick to it, but you can just trim it flush.

[Art Anderson]

I've come to making my own sanding sticks, using the basswood "lumber" from the model RR section of my LHS, as it comes in all manner of widths and thicknesses for practically peanuts (Hobby Lobby also stocks numerous sizes of basswood strips, BTW). I simply cut a piece of basswood to whatever shape I might need in order to get into an area, sand around details and such.

My 'trick" (if you will) is to ensure that the surface of the basswood is smooth and FLAT, which can be done by putting some 400-grit face up on a known flat surface (I have several pieces of thick plate glass--perfect for this purpose) and sand the area flat and smooth. Next, I cut a piece of 400-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper that will fit, put some gap-filling CA on the working area of my sanding stick, press that flat to the BACK of the piece of sandpaper I've cut out, and hit the glue with some accelerator. I know some might ask "why not just use popsicle sticks? My answer is simple--you can, but be aware that popsicle sticks tend not to be very flat or true, being cut from birch and while kiln dried, are prone to warping and twisting--basswood strip on the other hand, is kiln-dried before it's sawed and planed, which results in straight, true and almost always warp-free, and in the bargain, basswood cuts and sands much easier than does a birch popsicle stick.

In seconds, the CA will be set up, and all that is left is to trim carefully the sandpaper at the edges of the wooden stick, and I now have a sanding stick, custom-made to fit the job I need it for. I've used this sort of little tool for any number of jobs, using them as "body files" in small areas where I need to avoid losing surface details, shaping strip styrene I've added for chrome body trim, and even as a very fine "file" to clean up mold parting lines on the edges of parts--particularly the edges of window glass etc.

Inexpensive, quick to make, and disposable when done using them!

Art

Edited October 24, 2014 by Art Anderson

[DrGlueblob]

I take a small nail, shaft size just right for my Mini-Mite moto tool. Get some double-sided foam mounting tape and expose one sticky side.

Place a strip of 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper on the tape, then using a dollar store paper punch, make some disks.

Remove other sticky side on disc and stick to nail head.

Now, go kill some ejector pin marks!

[Cato]

I'll go you one better when adhering paper to sanding stick / block.

I use Scotch ATG tape which framers use to mount art work. It comes on a roll, is 1/2" wide and is a film of tacky adhesive with slick release paper on both sides.

Remove one release paper and adhere to the block. Press down, trim to size, and expose the second sticky side by removing the backing, Then adhere the paper to that; trim to size. Use on both long edges and the middle.

When the sand paper is worn, peel (with some effort) up the paper and apply fresh. The adhesive generally remains intact. I usually can reuse the same adhesive on a fresh piece of sanding material.

Or you can just add new sandpaper right on top of the worn paper with more ATG.

Art supply stores or Framers carry it.

Edited October 24, 2014 by Cato

[Art Anderson]

I'll go you one better when adhering paper to sanding stick / block.

I use Scotch ATG tape which framers use to mount art work. It comes on a roll, is 1/2" wide and is a film of tacky adhesive with slick release paper on both sides.

Remove one release paper and adhere to the block. Press down, trim to size, and expose the second sticky side by removing the backing, Then adhere the paper to that; trim to size. Use on both long edges and the middle.

When the sand paper is worn, peel (with some effort) up the paper and apply fresh. The adhesive generally remains intact. I usually can reuse the same adhesive on a fresh piece of sanding material.

Or you can just add new sandpaper right on top of the worn paper with more ATG.

Art supply stores or Framers carry it.

I've tried that, and didn't much like it Cato. It takes mere minutes to make a sanding stick, and generally mine get used pretty heavily--to the point of not just wearing out the paper, but often times I am using the very edge, which makes strong adhesion a necessity. On the other hand, I almost never throw one away until I've used both ends on both sides.

Art

[Art Anderson]

I take a small nail, shaft size just right for my Mini-Mite moto tool. Get some double-sided foam mounting tape and expose one sticky side.

Place a strip of 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper on the tape, then using a dollar store paper punch, make some disks.

Remove other sticky side on disc and stick to nail head.

Now, go kill some ejector pin marks!

And, with either a steady hand, or a simple drill press, such as Dremel's, that is a perfect way to do "damascening" AKA "engine turning" on aluminum, for instrument panels, scratchbuilt firewalls, etc.! I've done that before, back in the 1980's, when scratchbuilding a USAC dirt track championship car.

Art

[Cato]

I've tried that, and didn't much like it Cato. It takes mere minutes to make a sanding stick, and generally mine get used pretty heavily--to the point of not just wearing out the paper, but often times I am using the very edge, which makes strong adhesion a necessity. On the other hand, I almost never throw one away until I've used both ends on both sides.

Art

All of us have preferences which we produce good work with-this is mine. Never had an adhesion problem and changes are quick and easy. For best work, I prefer to wash the wet / dry paper clean (the water doesn't affect the adhesive or sanding block) or change grits often. cutting faster means less work.

I'm sure your method has served you well. I mention this for new modelers or those seeking a better way than they currently use.

EDIT: For edge work, I often wrap 220 grit around the edge of a small flat file. Gets into everything with nice clean cut.

Edited October 25, 2014 by Cato

[deuces wild]

Here's one for ya's...

On your next top chop session, try a little candle wax on the teeth of your razor saw...

You don't need much, just lightly drag the saw across the candle twice and your ready to start cutting.. It helps the saw cut better with the least amount of heavy burrs.. Happy cutting!

Let me know how it worked for you... Try it out on a piece of scrap sprue first!!

[1930fordpickup]

I use double sided tap to stick paper to many different shapes .

Arts idea is also a great way to make a sanding stick.

[fat50]

This doesn't fall under tool, but it has made life easier. Instead of picking through a drawer, looking at only the tops of the jars, never grabbing the right one the first time. I cut apart an old bed frame, fired up the MIG welder and now have a nice paint rack at $0 cost. I've since made 2 more for holding brushes, files, glues, solvents, etc....

[72 Charger]

Get yourself an battery toothbrush cut off the brisles and stick on some sand paper . Works great for knocking back filler quickly