roym Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Hi all, Looking for some more help from those who know. I don't wish to hijack any more threads by others, so I've started my own here. Will take some photos today and post them up later. I've been looking at the pics in the build threads by Camaro73 and dee, and also by looking at photos on timstrucks.com. I think I managed to get the rear axle brackets (and therefore axles) in correctly, but I still need help on the following; My kit was missing one tyre, so I robbed the spare one from my tanker trailer kit. Do AMT have a parts replacement service? Do the air tanks in step 7 attach to the bottom frame rail and hang from there, the underside of the top frame rail and hang from that, or attach to the inside of the frame on the vertical surface? Where exactly do the front shocks attach to the front springs? Does the cab tilt cylinder actually attach to the cab? I can't seem to figure out exactly where the radiator is to make contact with the frame, and in trying to dryfit I had to separate the forward engine mount from the frame at one side in order to get the rad in. I now think the engine bearer may not be aligned correctly. there are two raised lines on the frame that look like locations for the rear of the rad, but they are not square with each other. The rear metal axles are about 15mm too long, or are they supposed to push through the brake drums into the inside of the hubs? Are the rear wheels just supposed to click onto the hubs or be glued wheel to wheel to brake drum? (I can't seem to get the wheel faces to make contact without squashing the tyres). Is there meant to be a second fuel tank mount brace? I can't find one. The steering box can attach at multiple various angles, with no idea which is correct. I haven't got the cab together yet, so i haven't been able to dryfit that yet. I sure mine is attached wrong though. Despite all the above, I am actually enjoying the build, believe it or not. It's a total change of pace for me and has me thinking of a diner/gas station/car park diorama for the future. (I need somewhere to display all those Mustang kits).This is the first truck kit I've built since my teens, and only my third ever. I've also got the fruehauf box van trailer on the go for behind the KW. I'm going to go for an owner/operator look, to maximise the chrome bling effect on the truck. I'll have to paint the fuel tanks though, as the seam is too noticeable, but I have a bottle of Alclad chrome and polished aluminium for that. Frame is going to be satin black, still undecided on the cab colour though. Any suggestions? Sorry about all the questions, but these are things I just can't figure out for myself. Pics to follow tomorrow. Cheers, Roy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72 Charger Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Hi Roy I hope these pics of my 123's will help you out Im not to sure if AMT have a parts service . The air tanks as you can see go on the bottom of the rails the shocks go into the round holes on top of the spring and there should be holes on the rails you may want to look on the inside of the rail there may be some flash over the holes ! As for the tilt ram theres one on the gray truck and it does not attach to the cab . I think that you should be able to work out exactly where the rad mounts from the pics .You can see in pic 8 that thte axel rods shuld be around 3inch long and they do go into the hubs they dont click in but they do go in about 13mm on each side. The wheel and hubs do glue together as in pic 12 -13 . The fuel tanks should go opposite each other and finaly you can see from pics 1and2 where the steering box is ment to go . As i said I hope this helps you out and you get it all worked out AMT instrutions can be a bit vage . If you need any other pics I would be happy to help you these KW's do biuld into great looking rigs but they can make you curse them Best of luck Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roym Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Dave, thanks a million. Those pics do clear up a lot. Great stuff, cheers. I can't see any holes on top of the springs, but the ones on the frame are there ok. Looks like the spring holes are flashed over. Looks like I have the steering box on right after all. The only other thing I can see is that where I have the rad straight it is almost touching the pins for the cab tilt hinges. So it needs to go further back but I'll have to finish the engine first and fit that, so the fan doesn't foul the rad. Great fun all the same. and again, thanks for posting up the pics, I'll try to get mine up tomorrow. Cheers, Roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72 Charger Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Thats not a problem Roy thats what we are here for to help our fellow modelers . There should be a hole in the bump stop on the spring above the axel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Albion Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 HelloRoy, The AMT instructions are known for not being very clear. Before starting any vehicle Iike to spend time researching the particular vehicle that I am wanting to build. One of the best sources of reference for any model truck kit is Tim's website (www.timstrucks.com). He recently built the K123 and has some good photo's and information about the build check the page below: http://public.fotki.com/mackinac359/kenworth-model-gallery-1/kenworth-k123-out-o/ Dave, Those two trucks look superb, very impressive, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackinac359 Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 The metal axles have grown over the years in the reissues. Not sure why. I always snip them shorter. There is only one fuel tank crossover pipe brace. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roym Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 (edited) Hi all, Here's a few pics of where I'm at... First the sealed bag of tyres. Count 'em, nine there; Chassis so far; note no holes in the bump stops on top of the springs. See the oversized axles! Dodgy radiator positioning; Here's another look at the rear, I'm not sure about the positioning of the track rods (?) but it doesn't affect the axle positioning. and the front engine mount. This is currently only attached on the right side as you look at it, giving me room to play on the left as you look. Edited February 17, 2013 by roym Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roym Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 (edited) I've also made a start on the trailer, this is so much more straightforward, with a lot of model showing after little hours on the bench. I tried a few ideas on the wooden plank floor, mostly without success; I eventually went with some Humbrol dark sand/brown and rubbed over the raised wood grain with a HB pencil at an angle, just like we did in school with coins under paper.... Not the most realistic, but good returns for 4 minutes work. (Don't know why it looks pink in the photos!) Edited February 17, 2013 by roym Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dee Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 (edited) seems like all the newer amt kit axles are long. just to trim them off to the right length,. as for the radiator fit i had to sand the area where the fan blade goes to get it to set back where it fit for me. hope this helps Edited February 17, 2013 by dee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Johnny Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 I find having little adjustments to parts for a better fit still a good trade off for being able to still have these old kits available! Well worth the extra effort in the end! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roym Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 I agree Johnny, I'm really enjoying this build and wish they'd re-release the KW Conventional and Peterbilt 359 Conventional kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72 Charger Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Hi roy WOW you where right about those axel rods being to long there HUGE !!! Im not sure why you dont have holes in the bump stops ? Are you still in need of a tyre I may have some spare ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roym Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 (edited) Well nearly a year has passed, and I have been working on and off over the last 11 months on the rig. This included painting the cab twice, having had to strip off the first attempt. A lot of the build was spent trying to figure out where everything actually fitted or was meant to fit. I finally discovered that I actually have the chassis out of square, one rail is ever so slightly further forward than the other, coming to note only when I fitted the bumper. I used the idea (from here, sorry can't remember who said it) to glue the grille to the hinges first, and later to glue the cab to the grille. Defo the way to go. It has lots of mistakes, but I'm happy with it, and most of all I enjoyed the challenge, and love the finished result. However, I'm open to constructive critisim (I'm normally a 1/72 aircraft, 1/700 ship and 1/25 car guy) and would like some pointers. I know that the exhaust stacks look out of line in some of the pics, as are one of the tanks and the cab looks slightly tilted sometimes, especially if I don't squeeze the interior back up every time I tilt the cab. The exhaust does not meet the turbo (need to have mounted it lower down I think). The driver grab rails are on upside down. Oh well. I have no idea what I was supposed to do with all the licence plates. I know that more than one should be on but don't know which one is the actual truck plate and what I'm supposed to put on the trailer. I was going for the owner/operator look rather than the fleet scheme that came with the kit. So should I have put the numbering decals on the cab doors? I have the flatbed and chrome Texaco tanker trailer kits and would like to build a couple of conventionals to pull them. However, I can't find the old AMT Peterbilt and Kenworth Conventionals kits that were around when the K123 was out. Are there only the horrendously expensive Movin' On kits on ebay available? Anyway, let me know what you think? Cheers, Roy Edited January 14, 2014 by roym Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alangarber Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 That turned out fine. Looks nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roym Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Some more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roym Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 i'll put some more on another thread in the under glass section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olsbooks Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Darn good looking! That is a fantastic paint job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayton Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 On the wood floor start with light colors then too dark.I did this using plaid. First color kinda thick then the next colors as a wash. thin them down some, brush on let set a min and rub off.if you get lite spots and dark spots no fuss. over the years wood will fade and stain will build up and boards get replaced. So no two are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piero Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Looks very good with the trailer ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bige37 Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 With the wood grain I use a light tan then a dark wash! You can see what it looks like on my früehauf flatbed that I did in the under the glass or on the work bench! The kit looks good I have been thinking about a conventional kit to build I might try this one! Good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petetrucker07 Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 I can tell you on the tanker, it is a difficult build, the outside tank supports need fabrication, they do not line up at all. Lots of flashing, the god awful chrome frame rails. It will be a challenge for sure!!!!! The truck looks good, nice work and good detail. The little things of plates and numbers are completely up to you since your goin for the o/o look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpeterbilt Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 I have the flatbed and chrome Texaco tanker trailer kits and would like to build a couple of conventionals to pull them. However, I can't find the old AMT Peterbilt and Kenworth Conventionals kits that were around when the K123 was out. Are there only the horrendously expensive Movin' On kits on ebay available? Anyway, let me know what you think? Cheers, Roy Revell has both Peterbilt and Kenworths, that are a little more reasonable priced abd better detailed that the AMT. I believe Spaulding is still selling those. The collector prices of the AMT kits are getting ridiculous. Great job on the truck by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DoggyStyle Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Looks good, a great job mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roym Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 Thanks folks. compliments mean a lot when they are coming from the people on here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Nice clean build...looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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