deathskull59 Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 looks good in primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southpier Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 'zat primer shrunk in yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 That is looking very good. Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 good stuff William! very clean work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doggie427 Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 (edited) Fabulous work. Love how the rear wheel is set in the wheelwell so the full body character line is visible in a sideview. Have you considered filing the bottom edge of the hood louvers at an angle to match the bottom of the hood side? I realize this might be visually distracting with the drag link running down the side of the hood and the split wishbone angle.It's nice to keep these lines all fairly parallel. Just a thought. Your work is outstanding,keep the eye-candy coming! Edited August 22, 2012 by doggie427 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
route66modeler Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pharr7226 Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Beautiful work. I'm looking forward to your next update. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Del Austin Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Lovin' this build..er..re-build. You nailed the traditional Hot Rod look! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 (edited) Again, thanks to everyone for the interest, comments and kind words. Well then....decided to go back into it and do the quick-change rear end, and a rolled-rear-pan to go with it....all very period, high-end hot rod. The rear of the AMT body shell isn't exactly accurate, so I cut it off where the real '32 shell ends, and removed some material from my basis for the pan.... With it stuck to the car, I'm trying another new experimental technique. Using closed-cell urethane foam blocks glued in place to shape the rounded corners..... Getting there. Will probably saturate the foam with epoxy before finish-shaping and bondo. I also noticed a fit-and-square issue with the decklid, so that's getting corrected. And on the the QC. This is all the stuff to do the quick-change swap....Existing '32 frame with a '40 rear end and spring on right, '28-'31 model A frame in the center, with an AMT '32 Vicky or Phaeton rear end, top; the QC and some widened axle-bells from the AMT Fiat double-dragster kit; and a model T rear spring from a vintage Revell roadster parts-pack. Last shot shows the way the model A rear crossmember will clear the QC, but obviously the one I fabbed to use the '40 diff won't. Stay tuned........... Edited August 25, 2012 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Setzer Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Norm Weber at Replicas and Minitures co. of Maryland makes a great 32 ford chass that you can fit an A Model suspension to with a transveres rear spring. First thing you should do when building it is to fit the floor board, as the chassis is easy to warp if you don't I have used 6 of these chassis, and the quality and accurace are both the best there is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Tom, I appreciate the info. I've heard a lot of good things about Norm's parts, and I'll certainly give that frame a try sometime. In the meantime, I have a lot of old AMT '32 frames, and a lot of Model A frames and crossmembers, so I'll keep on building them like I do the real ones. I can get exactly the stance I want every time. Definitely more work, but it makes every one that much different too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Got a little more done... This is the wishbone from the AMT rear end separated from the axle. It's necessary to use the '32 wishbone to fit between the frame rails. (If the wishbones are 'split', longer ones can be used, but that's not the look I'm going for on this car.) Again, this is very similar to building a 1:1. I've also sprayed some primer on the Halibrand center section after removing a little mold flash. The original driveshaft didn't have the correct taper on the forward end, so I've removed it and turned a new one from styrene, and made up a bolt-flange to attach it to the center section. I also used to old Dremel 'lathe' to turn a cup for the forward universal on the driveshaft. After the unit is back in the chassis, I'll determine the right length to mate with the trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Setzer Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Hal You Build real Hot Rods? I grew up building AV8s and Dueces at Curtis Speed and Hot Rod shop, we would often use a rear cross member/spring perch from an old A model frame that wasn't worth using for any thing else on our Deuce frames. Then Clyde started manufacturing His own Frames and Crossmembers to sell to other people. l Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluhead Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Not sure how I missed this one, but I think this is the best use of that old ill-proportioned body I've ever seen. You've brought everything together to make it work for you rather than against you. Very cool! I'll definitely be watching this one. And that GeeBee, holy ###### now that I know it's mislabeled I have got to get one. Nothing better than a prop plane and a real hot rod sitting together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 ......... we would often use a rear cross member/spring perch from an old A model frame that wasn't worth using for any thing else on our Deuce frames....... Exactly. Stay tuned for the next installment.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 So, here's the Model A rear crossmember cut out of the model A chassis, just like real.....The marks are where it will be trimmed to fit between the '32 rails. The reason the rear suspension complete with spring had to be built-up first is that it's ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL to know that the axle centerline and the ride height are the same as on the mockup when you glue in the crossmember, if you want to maintain the exact stance. I do, as it's a large part of the character of the car. I've seen well-respected pros get this wrong on 1:1 cars, and it looks really stupid if you blow it. Because the Halibrand quick-change is a different shape than the '37 or '40 rear that came out, I had to make up new rear floors and a tunnel extension to clear everything. All that's left now of the original AMT frame is the rails. Here's the assembled unit happily installed in the car, with everything fitting right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 You're doing a well a job documenting this build as you are on the plastic! I'm enjoying every word and every drop of weld .. umm ... glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James2 Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 ​Well done thus far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluhead Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 All the right moves... I'm really curious to see how those foam corners work out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1930fordpickup Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 Looks great ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Pugh Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 Wow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Minarick Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 Getting there........letting the primer shrink in while I work on other parts of the build. It looks perfect just like this! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Lacy Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 Excellent work putting together the quick change rear and other necessary mods. All the mixing and matching feels like doing the real thing, doesn't it.... I went back and found mention of where the rear spring came from so I could make a mental note because it is actually a Model T spring and the nicest one in scale I've ever seen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted August 25, 2012 Author Share Posted August 25, 2012 (edited) .... it is actually a Model T spring and the nicest one in scale I've ever seen! Yup, my bad in calling it an 'A'. I specifically used the 'T' to avoid having to do even more mods necessary to use the excellent 'A' spring from the old Revell 1/25 '31 Woody kit (in order to get the rear end width I was after with the juice-brake backing plates). Good sharp eye, and thanks for bringing it to my attention. I will change the incorrect post so anyone reading it will get the right info. Using the 'A' spring would have allowed putting the crossmember in a little higher between the rails, which I would have prefered, and the spring is a little stiffer, being (I THINK) 1/4 inch wider in 1:1, but there were other interference problems shaping up. I think the 'T' spring will give me just a hair more room to route the muffled part of the exhaust system. I'll also finish up more correct-looking rear-axle spring hangers than the stuck-in tubes, but I'll leave them a little wrong for strength's sake. Edited August 25, 2012 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Lacy Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 Yup, my bad in calling it an 'A'. I specifically used the 'T' to avoid having to do even more mods necessary to use the excellent 'A' spring from the old Revell 1/25 '31 Woody kit (in order to get the rear end width I was after with the juice-brake backing plates). Good sharp eye, and thanks for bringing it to my attention. I will change the incorrect post so anyone reading it will get the right info. Using the 'A' spring would have allowed putting the crossmember in a little higher between the rails, which I would have prefered, and the spring is a little stiffer, being (I THINK) 1/4 inch wider in 1:1, but there were other interference problems shaping up. I think the 'T' spring will give me just a hair more room to route the muffled part of the exhaust system. I'll also finish up more correct-looking rear-axle spring hangers than the stuck-in tubes, but I'll leave them a little wrong for strength's sake. Like you, I work on all of this old junk for a living so I can't help but notice every little detail, I'm programmed to. haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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