mustang1989 Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Here's where I started with on an engine: and this is afer painting and weathering. The engine is supposed to be a dark color but I painted it a medium shade of grey (RLM 02) and applied a heavy dark wash to bring out all of the detail that this resin engine has to offer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent G Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I love the way that wash brought out all that detail. Looking good. I spent the day with my least fave thing to do, roadwheels. Not so many on this panzer thank goodness. Adding details to the lower hull as we speak. Pics to come. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Thanks Wayne!! I've heard horror stories about working on road wheels. All the way from sanding to paint! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Ok these pics are of the supercharger/ engine accessory gear box. This part was a blast to build and is complete down to lubrication lines. If anybody is wondering if they have seen these pics before here............they have. I started this build last year and put it off for a GB at another site and then put it off again for the GB here. I'll be caught up after I post the completed engine /nose module pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent G Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Let's go a bit sideways shall we? Remember this one? Base coated in Floquil enamel, Afrika Korps palm tree stenciled on using Tamiya Flat White. I used liquid mask over the palm tree and attached the build to my hitech paint stand. A mix of Tamiya buff, Deck Tan and White yielded these results. More to come. Gotta go to work. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 Man don't that suck on the "gotta go to work"? I can certainly identify with that!! Good goin on this build Wayne! The paint is turning out just right. To me it would seem that the weathering process is one of the hardest parts of getting an armor build to look worn and used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent G Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 For the longest time I simply did not "weather" an armor build in the sense that I added no real wear, tear or dirt. The Tank Art books by Mike Rinaldi gave me the inspiration to go ahead and weather that perfect finish to make it more realistic. Using his techniques as guidelines I am finally getting the hang of it. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scalper Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 I would like to join. Revell 1/48 B1-b Lancer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 Come on with it Andre! I'll get you in the line up. Man if I remember right that thing is a whale of a kit. I got that one year for Christmas when I was in my teens...........................about 30 years ago! That was a BIG present under ....er....around the tree! Glad to have you aboard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent G Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Oh heck yeah! Bring on the Bone! G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 I would like to join. Revell 1/48 B1-b Lancer. Youre on the list dude!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 Here's engine build up after being mostly assembled. Exhausts were at first painted a metallic silver, then sprayed with a light coat of rust to allow some of the metallic color to "bleed" through, a light wash applied and then ground up black pastel was dry brushed to the #2 thru #6 exhaust outlets for that soot effect. and the other side: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racedriver25 Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Nice work Joe. Coming along nicely. I hope to start my entry in about a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Thanks Jim! I'm looking forward to it man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 The assembled engine/ firewall assy. Nose section almost complete here: and starting on the nose: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent G Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 (edited) I love that engine! Here's a little Panzer III update. Realize that while it doesn't look like much, I have added quite a number of parts. Wheels, yes it is possible to grow them in the desert. Hull Keep in mind nearly everything shown is a seperate part added to the hull. This kit is super! G Edited February 9, 2014 by Agent G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent G Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 While I'm here, let's see the Panzer I again shall we? This is where we were. Here is where we are at the end of stage one. Decals are added early on so to exhibit the wear and tear. This is a command tank, so it wouldn't be out front facing the enemy directly. Battle damamge would be minimal. I wanted to show weathering and wear from the enviornment. I took a old brush cut short and with a bit of windex scrubbed the paint away in certain areas. I concentrated on places the crew would be climbing on or over. Once I achieved the look I wanted I took some tan enamel and mixed it with Burnt Umber oil paint. That gave me a dirty light brown color that I thinned out and washed into the nooks and crannies to add depth. This is a tank operating in a bright hot sunny area so I wanted a faded bleached appearence. When that dried I used a yellow orange enamel filter in certain areas on the top of the tan. That gave me some tonal variation in the seperate panels which adds the illusion of mass. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racedriver25 Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Agent G: one of the main reasons I don't build tanks.....road wheels. Looking good so far though. Joe: Awesome work. How does that aftermarket engine assembly mate to the kit parts? Meaning does it fit well or is there a ton of sanding and fitting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 Wayne:Man I've gotta say again that armor builds are mostly in the weathering and you've nailed this thing great! I've often thought of learning how to apply filters just because the effect they give is simply awesome! Jim:Thanks brother! Actually Aires makes some of the best aftermarket stuff around and so far the firewall to fuselage fit is so good it looks like it was made for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent G Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Thanks guys! Jim I have built only one King Tiger simply because of all the wheels. I got them all prepped, primed and base coated in a long weekend. I sprayed the second color and when final assembly rolled around realized I camoflaged the backsides of the darn wheels. I traded a second kit for a AAV 7P with full interior. Joe I have finally taken the plunge into full on weathering and am loving the results. Desert subjects are easier as I have lots of references right out my back door. Using filters still scares me a bit so I thin them out a lot and apply sparingly. I suppose that's why it works so well for me. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share Posted February 10, 2014 You know Wayne it's a never ending learning experience hangin' around places like this and it's fun at the same time. Can't wait to see some more progress on that Tiger! Got updated pics on the nose. The prop spinner decal was a real challenge to put on this one. I spent around an hour chasing this thing around in circles to get it to lay down even remotely flat and applied around 7 coats of Microsol to get it suck down to the spinner. All in all I'm happy with it. and together with the prop blade it really comes to life. This is after the dullcoat on the spinner as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the goon Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Looks good. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 Thanks Mark! Was wondering where you were! Looking forward to your build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the goon Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Life is what happens, while you're busy making other plans Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent G Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Mark I couldn't agree with you more. I actually had the day to myself and nothing else to divert my attention. Amazing what can happen. This set up and an Optivisor allows me to build the tracks. Once I get a string of 96 or so links I "paint" them with Tamiya Extra Thin cement. I let them sit 20 minutes or so the peel the strip of track up. Remember all those wheels? Well here's one of the reasons I built them first, This side took 92 links, the right side 93.I form them around the wheels which this time were a good tight friction fit. I tape the connecting ends together on the bottom. As you can see I weight them down with coins. This keeps the upper run in contact with the return rollers. I let these dry for about three days. I found out the hard way if I take them off before the cement sets completely, the tracks tend to shrink. It's no fun after painting and weathering to find out the tracks are a fraction too short during final assembly. Additional coins keep the track sag in place. I initially formed that withmy hands. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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