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Glue Help !!!!!!!!!


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I am working on the L700 dodge model truck and just finished up the rolling chassis, I have a few more pieces to glue to the frame that is already painted, I had some problems with the testors red tube glue eating off the paint in the mud flap area of the frame where the mud flap bars attach. Is there a glue that will hold to paint and not eat it up? plus I still have the engine and other parts to assemble, with the fear of the paint being ruined. Any help would be appreciated

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You should scrape away the paint where 2 painted parts need to be glued. Testor's tube glue doesn't stick well to paint. After you glue the part, you can go back with a fine-tipped brush and touch up any area where bare plastic is showing.

If you don't want to scrape away the paint, CA glues ("superglues") stick pretty well to paint.

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Listen to Harry's advise-he's got it right!

What you may want to do, and since I don't know you from atom you may already do, BUT in case you don't-

glue parts that are going to be the same color togther before painting. You really want to try and glue as few painted parts as possible, and that cuts down on that big time. I've learned this through my own experience and having been told on a message board long, long ago, and it really did help. Less headaches, a more sanitary, tidy finished project, and easier to boot!

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I'm not big on Testors tube glue, there are so many alternatives. I agree on the CA glue, also look at 5-minute epoxy. The cool thing about the epoxy is that you can mix it up, wait until the 3 or 4 minute mark and then use it when it will be partially set up and not runny.

I also pin a lot of parts together which helps my final assembly. The parts self-locate and wind up being stronger. For pins I use anything from plastic rod, paper clip wire, staples, craft wire, etc.

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Yes pinning is one of the best ways to get a strong attachment point. Also I use only Devcon 5 minute epoxy when doing all my final assemblies. Like Bob says, wait for a bit until the epoxy starts to set, then hold the part until it stays where you want it, the best part about epoxy is when is sets a few minutes, you can clean any excess glue off with a toothpick!!! A little practice, and use, and you will get the hang of how it works. Good luck!!!

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You have to make sure you have a good primer under the paint or no matter what type of glue you use it may peel the paint right off the chassis. CA glue will hold to paint but does not melt the plastic or fuse it together. If the paint does not bite into the plastic it can peel off. I had that happen to me once on the only chassis I did not prime before finish painting with testor's enamel. I hope this helps, Good Luck

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hello all, i'm a new guy and thought that i could get some advice on glueing. i have some vintage monogram kits that come with a clear plastic windshield. indy car and midget from the 1950's. the clear plastic neaver sticks for long. it drys out and the windshiel pops off. what type of glue will hold this on once and for all. if it is a strong glue, will it affect the poly styrene? i do not want to melt it or have it mis-shape or discolor.

thanks

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hello all, i'm a new guy and thought that i could get some advice on glueing. i have some vintage monogram kits that come with a clear plastic windshield. indy car and midget from the 1950's. the clear plastic neaver sticks for long. it drys out and the windshiel pops off. what type of glue will hold this on once and for all. if it is a strong glue, will it affect the poly styrene? i do not want to melt it or have it mis-shape or discolor.

thanks

The stuff you seek is 2-part clear epoxy. You can get it at most craft stores. It comes in a two-tube syringe and one unit will last you for a few years. Just mix some of the two parts on an index card or such and use a tooth pick to apply it. It stinks, but it will hold for as long as we'll be inhabiting this planet without any fogging or dire effects. Hope this helps! :)

Edited by dub
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