vintagedragfan Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 looks like you are having some fun with this Ray, thats great to see!! every thing looks good so far, if you are prepping parts for paint adhesion, it really isn't that necessary, I know it is built in to us body men , the only prepping you really need to do is to remove mold seams and ejector pin marks, as far as adhesion, it really isn't an issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 (edited) I'm enjoying it, Bill. Ya, good, thorough paint prep is in my DNA. Cork sheet. At .040, a little thick for most of the gaskets on this motor, but perfect, I'm hoping, for the oil pan gasket. But, maby not. Wait till I get some color on things & see what looks best then. I want good, easily visable definiion where these parts join deep down in the chassis, while maintaining a reasistic feel in the piece. I remember cork gaskets out of my past. Bought a couple types of tacky glue also today. Read a thread in Q & A about mock up adhesives. I want to build this motor well enough that It will stay together for handling & display, but want to be able to disasemble it for measurments without too much trouble, when I start cutting the engine parts for the scratch built. Edited June 15, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro Wrench Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 Might try some light brown construction paper to use as gaskets. The scale might be closer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 Ya the cork's way too much on the transmission top plate. I've got some manilla folder that I'm going to try on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 (edited) Motor looks better even now, without all that gawdy chrome smeared all over the top. The magneto, even though it's cast to scale, is too visually large & overpowering for this motor. Going with something smaller with a tower cap on it. Rear fenders are going to have to be bobbed a bit behind the tire, which really fills out the opening nicely. Edited June 15, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 (edited) Steel shafts coming for the water pumps, crank pulley & generator. Just need a few more proper sized drill bits. Edited June 16, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 Happy fathers day to all the dads. Cut a few gaskets this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 That's better, but it still has that plastic engine that's been painted, look. Humm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Exhaust header theory & design. http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Lets-Get-Technical.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Flat head dipsticks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Thu look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 Paper template for header base plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 (edited) Solid core, silver bearing solder...holds it's shape well, yet bendable...has a nice metal look to it. It"s 1/8" & that scales up to a 1:1 primary tube of only 1". I've also got some aluminum tubing that's 3/16, 1:8 of a 1 1/2" tube. On a 1:1 motor, I'd probably go with the 1 1/2 size, but here, to my eye, I think by the time I got it all fitted into place, it would be too overpowering. Kinda like the magneto, when I mocked it up on the front of the engine a while back. Going to get the frame painted & assembled through this coming weekend & get the steering box in place so make sure everything fits nicely. Edited June 20, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 Equal length primaries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 (edited) I buffed the aluminum parts on the top of the engine with the ultra fine foam pad, to get rid of the "shine". Used a nylon bristle, detail brush to scrub down the fins on the face of the heads. This looks better to me. Also need to further refine the way the header tubes flow against the side of the block. Edited June 20, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 21, 2013 Author Share Posted June 21, 2013 A new friend I've made through the slammers club, saw my post on the magneto a couple of pages back & sent me these. Thank you! The alternator is a 3 piece item, making it easier to detail & short enough to mount on the top of the engine in front of the 3 carb setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 22, 2013 Author Share Posted June 22, 2013 Check this out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted June 22, 2013 Author Share Posted June 22, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Added a dipstick to the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Also added a 4spd to the mix & still in process of adapting the bellhousing to fit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Built an aluminum distributor & fitted it to the front cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Since deciding to use the 4 spd, the stock crossmember will be replaced with a tube style. Squared up the frame & stuck it to poster paper...laid out & verified a centerline. Fitting the tube pieces to the frame while working off the centerline for a visually balanced result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 Happy saturday to all. A mock-up to see how it's all fitting. If I go with the original triangulated radius rods, I'll design the front driveshaft hoop as a structural unit & attach them there. May go 4 bar...don't know yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 nice progress Ray!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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