1/12th Trumpeter GT40

[LR3]

Need help identifying the white pipes. I believe they are water lines and would have assumed they were rubber except one has a flange on the end. Need to know what color they should be (although they will disappear inside the body when finally assembled.)

Half the molded parts are chrome plated requiring stripping before paint. There were holes in the head about where one would expect spark plugs but no distributor or coil included that I could find and no information in their booklet so I scratch built the ignition system. It probably won't be seen as it resides below the plate attached to the carburetor dish (chromed part) if I use it.

Below is an example of why I wish this was in 1/8th. The big engine is about the same displacement in 1/8th. It would be a real masterpiece to build this in that scale.

[Len Woodruff]

Well the connections at the Manifold and the water pump are definately water the mistery is that the top pipe connects to what looks like the dry sump. All of the GT40 ran a dry sump. I would change those to insulated wire and route them in a more correct manner.

[LR3]

Well the connections at the Manifold and the water pump are definately water the mistery is that the top pipe connects to what looks like the dry sump. All of the GT40 ran a dry sump. I would change those to insulated wire and route them in a more correct manner.

Thanks Len. I can't find any reference photos to help with the routing or type pipes. I appreciate the help and if you have a reference photo it would sure help me and maybe others.

[DaytonaTim]

Could that be a water cooled, oil cooler, on the front of the oil pan?

[Len Woodruff]

Here is the front on picture that clearly shows the Manifold & water pump in & out. The lower lines are clearly for the Dry sump.

[Len Woodruff]

Tim there were seperate coolers. This was 1966 so a water cooler oil was probably too far out to do. Anyway they had huge oil coolers for these cars.

Edited June 21, 2010 by Len Woodruff

[LR3]

Tim there were seperate coolers. This was 1966 so a water cooler oil was probably too far out to do. Anyway they had huge oil coolers for these cars.

Thanks for all the help. With those huge oil coolers I guess you are right. I did find a picture though after many tries that says I could figure the pipes as metal and they head down the same area.

[Len Woodruff]

You are right the pipes were metal with rubber connections. Be careful with the picture you have that is from the 289 versions (MK I) of the GT40 and looks like the 68/69 car.

[Cato]

Syd and Len;

I'm about half way through Trump's GT and if accuracy is your goal, by now you know you have to scratch half the car. Trump 'suggests' much of the Stauffer restoration of 1046. There are differences as the car was raced in'66. The key is to get all the research you can find. Google GT-40 1015, 1046, 1016 and you can compile many chassis, interior and engine shots.

I too scratched a distributor and wires with coil. The coil bolts to the front of left cylinder head. Restored or vintage raced cars have colored wires-in '66 they were 7mm black as was the dist and coil. The block should be black and the heads and exhaust ports a gun metal. The intake is a slightly lighter cast aluminum finish. EVERYTHING-even on brand new GT's was dull, fingermarked and slightly oily. Weathering like the aircraft guys works well for an 'as raced' model. The supplied linkage is just a suggestion-reference will let you scratch finer detail and springs. The plug detail and the peaks on the exhaust ports are all wrong. Here's some better reference-my own 427 in my Cobra.

The forward pair of plugs is angled 45 deg to the rear and the rear pair is angled 45 to the front. The port shape is flat across the top with a raised rib on these medium riser heads (as raced).

This is a later snap with cast valve covers and different wires. This is the routing for a Cobra-GT's had them run from the dist to in front of each head and along the lower edge of the valve covers. I made my model wires from very thin solder but made a plug loom for the top of each valve cover (like my 1:1) for a visual detail.

The upper tube is aluminum coolant pipe and goes from there forward into the tunnel between the seats to the nose radiator. The little pipe has no real counterpart as all the dry sump connections are to the pan on the left side-and not provided in the kit. Virtually none of this is visible as you build the car around it. Just do what you can see and prefit everything so you know what's hidden.

The suspension and brakes are a complete joke and the fittings and connections are all very clumsy. No brake lines either-this is all highly visible and worth doing. You guys will do much better with reference. There are many good GT picture books (search Amazon) but unfortunately this adds cost to an already too expensive kit.

Hope this helps.

[Cato]

I hope you all will pardon me for having an opinion, but judging by the appearance of the engine from the GT-40 kit, the folks at Trumpeter have never laid eyes on a 427 Ford V8.

The amazing thing is that every shape on the bodywork and glass is virtually perfect and the wheels are very close. Dash, exhaust, coolers too. Seats, tires, brakes and front plumbing either need to be remade or left as compromised and the model displayed closed.

[LR3]

Syd and Len;

I'm about half way through Trump's GT and if accuracy is your goal, by now you know you have to scratch half the car. Trump 'suggests' much of the Stauffer restoration of 1046. There are differences as the car was raced in'66. The key is to get all the research you can find. Google GT-40 1015, 1046, 1016 and you can compile many chassis, interior and engine shots.

This is getting interesting. Thanks to all for the help and comments. Didn't know I would start such interaction. I doubt my capabilities will allow me to build a perfect reproduction of any one GT40. I hope you will post some images of your work to date. I am sure we all would benefit and enjoy seeing how you made the plug loom. I believe I can replace the plug wires with black (don't now why I used red, just looked pretty) as they are only poked into the holes. My paint capability leaves much to be desired so I left the pan and heads the existing gold. Looking at all the variations of GT40s it seemed there was considerably individuality in most components and color schemes so I thought I could get away with my own individuality. It is amazing how the kit is so perfect in some areas then wanders off the mark in others but I personally think it is a fun and challenging build. I hope I can make the appropriate adjustments where it really counts and would look forward to seeing how others have overcome problems.

[stump]

Best of luck with this one Syd. You're in the right spot for some fantastic advice here, no doubt. :)

I shall be following Cato's advise and researching thoroughly before I start mine, thanks Cato. It's on the "to do" list.

[Cato]

Glad to help guys. I've been a GT fanatic since those glory days and almost built an ERA GT instead of my Cobra.

Sorry for the crappy snaps I posted, I'm new to this forum but not 'forums'. If you've any questions I might help with, post here and I'll try or point you to a good spot. An excellent resource for study is the Exoto 1/10 models of 1015 and 1046. I have 1015 and for a 'diecast' it's spectacular and they got 95% of the car correct. Go on their site and look it over.

In my own build I decided that since I can't get any of the three winning '66 cars 'correct', I would build a track 'mule' or team test type car. All the cars had different fuel pumps, some hose routing and sway bar configurations. I chose a '60's -style color (TS-58)and airbrushed Wimbledon white stripes-can't use the supplied decals so no numbers.

Tips; All the steel chassis when constructed were painted blue-X-4 is near perfect match. Tires; I aggressively ran them on a disc sander to make them near slicks and soften the hard shoulder as supplied. The press-on logos are a nightmare. When in place carefully trim/scrape the clear film around each letter. The white is way too bright-I hand painted flat buff/tan over them (I have these same tires on the Cobra)then a mist of German gray for brake dust then Dullcote. Weather the wheels in similar fashion. Mist them x-31, Titan gold first. On and on...

I will try to shoot some of the model so far and post-meanwhile I'm bleeding the brakes and replacing the fuel lines on the Cobra.

[Len Woodruff]

Tips; All the steel chassis when constructed were painted blue-X-4 is near perfect match.

Interesting comment about the chassis. I thought most of them were painted black. I have never sen any that appeared to be blue in the 100's of pictures I have for reference.

[Cato]

Interesting comment about the chassis. I thought most of them were painted black. I have never sen any that appeared to be blue in the 100's of pictures I have for reference.

We should swap references someday. :)I too have seen many black chassis cars. For the purposes of the model I chose the blue because detail is already too hard to see. I should amend my statement to say that all MK II A's left Abbey with blue chassis.

The Osprey book 'GT40' by John S. Allen cites on page 58 "...Shelby team car 1015 has been restored to the condition it was in when it almost won LeMans. The dayglo red identity panels on the front body had been added ... (it)was painted pale blue. (Referring to the bodywork). Owned by Brian Mimaki, here is that restored car showing the outboard chassis members which hold the gas tank bladders. The same book shows the prototype GT in color in the day, which had the blue chassis.(PG. 35)

[Cato]

Wip-so far. Feel free to throw eggs.

[Len Woodruff]

We should swap references someday. :)I too have seen many black chassis cars. For the purposes of the model I chose the blue because detail is already too hard to see. I should amend my statement to say that all MK II A's left Abbey with blue chassis.

The Osprey book 'GT40' by John S. Allen cites on page 58 "...Shelby team car 1015 has been restored to the condition it was in when it almost won LeMans. The dayglo red identity panels on the front body had been added ... (it)was painted pale blue. (Referring to the bodywork). Owned by Brian Mimaki, here is that restored car showing the outboard chassis members which hold the gas tank bladders. The same book shows the prototype GT in color in the day, which had the blue chassis.(PG. 35)

I have that book and checked out the pages. Even though they say the color was dark blue it is hard to tell it from black. Also that is a MK I which I am sure there were differences just because they were prepaired for racing in England vs the MK II's being done in the US by Shelby & Holman Moody.

Edited June 23, 2010 by Len Woodruff

[Cato]

I have that book and checked out the pages. Even though they say the color was dark blue it is hard to tell it from black. Also that is a MK I which I am sure there were differences just because they were prepaired for racing in England vs the MK II's being done in the US by Shelby & Holman Moody.

Len,

My intent here is to share what I've learned and learn what others share. Further, my modeling skills are no where near the standards achieved by many that post here. So I offer no pretense to be a consummate authority on any subject. I've touched originals and replicas and have loved (and studied them) them since they were born.

In my post, I clearly make the distinction that chassis 1015 and the original prototype each had blue chassis. I did not imply that all cars had blue chassis. I would never dispute that many cars were built with black chassis-they were folded steel and needed some form of paint protection. From a modeling standpoint, I chose the blue (at least one car had it) for more visual interest in scale.

You too are apparently a 'student of the game' and I welcome the opportunity to learn from you. I would never contest well-documented facts. We can each interpret those facts as we wish.

[LR3]

Lots of information coming from various sources. All of it appreciated.

Cato - I like the weathering, used look (tires), wire loom and carburetor bowl springs. My paint ability sucks so my car will be Beverly Hills white (original plastic) with only the frame braces black.

I wish I could have afforded an Exoto 1/10 model 1015 but I will have to be happy with my B.H. version. Got the oil lines on! Decided to leave the ignition wires red as this is a Beverly Hills special you know. Not sure I will leave the plate behind the carburetor dish. Hides the distributor.

Edited June 23, 2010 by LR3

[Cato]

Nice clean build Syd. It's a shame how much good detail gets hidden when built-which is why Trump omitted it. The visible details they did provide are toy-like. Only the body is perfect.

[Cato]

More work so far:

[LR3]

I like your body color. I would paint my body if all my paint efforts didn't look like sheets of sand paper. Gotta find some blue tape to use as racing stripes for my Rodeo Drive white replicar.

Seeing different views of your model helps me see what to paint even though I have many other reference images.

Edited June 23, 2010 by LR3

[Cato]

I like your body color. I would paint my body if all my paint efforts didn't look like sheets of sand paper. Gotta find some blue tape to use as racing stripes for my Rodeo Drive white replicar.

Seeing different views of your model helps me see what to paint even though I have many other reference images.

Glad something I posted helps somebody. You're being modest Syd-I've seen your assembly and paint work on the 'large model forum'.

I chose the colors to remind of the '60's metallics and the dull whites (almost very light tans) of the day. The MK II's were raced just as the paint came out of the guns-no polishing or buffing. I tried to recreate that. Only thing that took effort was using sanding cloths to 12,000 grit to get the stripe edges flat. The window and light glass will really set off your paint with the black edges and rivets. I will very lightly weather the car with streaking and rubber/brake dust build-up as many of the MK II's show in all the race shots I've collected.

So you're doing a 'BH' GT and I'm doing an imaginary car as I would love to have raced in the day-not an 'over-restored' car as George's is. (I know it's virtually priceless...) I intentionally omitted the FIA suitcases-I know I would have only raced the US tracks and series. Also you can build more detail, like the aluminum covers of the gearbox which can only be seen without the tin boxes.

Please post continued progress on your car. I'm tremendously interested to see other solutions and presentations to the problems the kit presents. I can always learn and improve my work. I'd like to share and compare ideas.

I'm disappointed that there just does not seem to be a lot of guys building (or showing their work) this Trump kit. Would love to see all the solutions and 'philosophies' of how to go at it.

Of course, the scratch-built work of Propeller's 1/8 car on the 'large forum' makes me want to step on mine-but what an inspiration.

[LR3]

I intentionally omitted the FIA suitcases-I know I would have only raced the US tracks and series. Also you can build more detail, like the aluminum covers of the gearbox which can only be seen without the tin boxes.

Of course, the scratch-built work of Propeller's 1/8 car on the 'large forum' makes me want to step on mine-but what an inspiration.

So what are those tin boxes in the back for?

And I agree - it is embarrassing to post pictures of a build after looking at Propellers work but I keep doing it so other builders might be encouraged to post their work and not be intimidated by the experts that post.

[Cato]

So what are those tin boxes in the back for?

The bleepin' French sanctioning body (FIA) required that the prototypes carry a volume for 'luggage' as a road car would have a trunk.

You have to ask those dopes what they were thinking...