Macmaniac

Great post. How did you deal with the plastic grid in the center of the trays? I have an Amer Har, too. Just now setting it up. I don't understand your point about the holder. My pea brain is reading it like, if you put your body on a holder (stand), don't use stand. What kind of stand do you use in the dehydrator? I'm unclear what you were trying to say. Please clarify.

Thank you for your post- very helpful. How did you cut out the grid in the center? What tool did you use?

Wow, you are brave to try that. Makes perfect sense-- too bad it didn't work. It should have worked. But with your Amer Harvest, how did you solve the problem of the trays having plastic in the centers? Did you cut it out? If so, how did you d0 it? Or did you build your own cylinder out of something? If so, what material did you use, and how did you bond it together?

Great idea! Thanks. BTW, how high did you make it, how tall? Would 10" be too much, or would 6" be too little?

I just bout an American Harvest dehydrator on eBay. What did you use to cut out the centers of the trays? And what kind of foam did you use for the filter-- where did you get it?

I just got a used hydrator from eBay I'm going to dedicate to drying my paint jobs. It's round, and is essentially 4 discs that are stacked on one another. Each disc is about 1.5" tall, and has a diameter of about 15". Each disc contains a tray, that has a lot of vents in it, to let the air through. The tray and the disc are one unit. Of course, there' a fan at the top and a heater. I'm trying to figure out how to modify this to use as a paint-dryer. The best idea I've come up with so far is to get some type of aluminum sheet I can fashion into a cylinder, around two of the discs, and join them somehow-- maybe with epoxy or even duct tape. I'm guessing it would need to be around6" tall. Because there is no way I can squeeze a model car between those thin, 2" layers of trays. I'm wondering if this is what's typically done. What are some of they ways you guys have used to convert the dehydrator into a paint dryer? Any help will be appreciated. Some photos would really help. Thanks in advance!

I just got a used hydrator from eBay I'm going to dedicate to drying my paint jobs. It's round, and is essentially 4 discs that are stacked on one another. Each disc is about 1.5" tall, and has a diameter of about 15". Each disc contains a tray, that has a lot of vents in it, to let the air through. The tray and the disc are one unit. Of course, there' a fan at the top and a heater. I'm trying to figure out how to modify this to use as a paint-dryer. The best idea I've come up with so far is to get some type of aluminum sheet I can fashion into a cylinder, around two of the discs, and join them somehow-- maybe with epoxy or even duct tape. Because there is no way I can squeeze a model car between those thin layers of trays. I'm wondering if this is what's typically done. What are some of they ways you guys have used to convert the dehydrator into a paint dryer? Any help will be appreciated. Some photos would really help. Thanks in advance!

To see the pictures, go to PhotoBucket at the following URL: http://photobucket.c...eference_Photos I took most of these using Preview (MAC) off YouTube videos of the real car. Great references for the 1/32 scale Lindberg Ford Model T Couplet kit (that's the kit I'm building at the moment). If you are building the Model T, I'd like to hear about it. I just got back into modeling after 40 years and this will be my first build since then.

I wanted to get crisp, clear lines demarcating the doors and hood of a '32 Ford Sedan prior to priming/painting. Unfortunately, I jumped the groove several times with the back of a #11 blade. I didn't notice right away that I'd done it, so I kept incising the wrong line several times.This is the first model I've tried to build in 30 years, folks! Any of you experienced guys out there have any thoughts on how I repair the damage?

I used a #11 x-acto blade to remove the doors off a Revell '32 Ford Sedan. I bent the most fragile part of the door, which is where I had to separate the door from the roof. Now it's a thin little line that sags, and it will no longer fit snugly and seamlessly into the body. Can you recommend a method of straightening this piece out? Thanks in advance!

I've x-acto-bladed all the doors off two models, but scratched them up pretty badly-- too badly, I'm afraid, for simple sanding. The plastic seems pretty thin. I was wondering if there is a certain type of filler that would be appropriate for filling up these scratches, or a putty, or if you really think I cold sand them out somehow. Thanks for your help!