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D Fowler

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    Dean Fowler

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  1. Thank you for the advice on the decals. I'll try the warm water trick next time!
  2. Fantastic! The front wheels are amazing, for sure. I'm wondering how you got the decals to lay down so nice. They're quite a task.
  3. I think this is the Manta-ray. Kinda spendy if this is it: http://www.structomodels.com/
  4. Yes, I read it. I hope that some of the examples being shared demonstrate that these types of models can have every bit of passion and craftsmanship that an accurate reproduction of an existing subject has. In fact, I think it takes a lot of creativity to realize something that doesn't exist. After 5 pages of responses, I suspect you're not being swayed, so I'd just say let people enjoy the hobby the way they want, but I think you'll be missing out on some great ideas and techniques.
  5. I'm curious why the question was asked at all, then. You can build whatever you want. Why does it matter what other people do? These 'toon and show cars display a lot of imagination, craftsmanship, and passion. I don't think they lessen the hobby in any way, and, in fact, enrich it.
  6. Hi Guys- I know there are a lot of experts here that have no doubt conquered the Outlaw decals.. The Outlaw has to be one of my favorite Roth cars, but the decals, well, they're a challenge for me, to say the least. I've already tried and failed on a few kits with the Micro Sol/Micro Set system and Solvaset. I've tried a hot towel which actually got the decals to conform pretty well, but left some bad wrinkles. Before I ruin another set of decals, any one have any reasonably fool proof techniques (apart from "don't use the decals" )? Thanks in advance, -Dean
  7. Hey, thanks for the replies! Well, since I shot the clear at the two week mark, looks like I broke the one hour or one month rule! I'd bet that's the culprit and the result was pretty dramatic. Imagine dripping thinner on the blue in spots and that's pretty much what I've got. I've never scuffed the primer either, so I guess that could have been a contributing factor. I've always been impressed by the knowledge on these forums. Thanks again.
  8. Hi All, Frequent lurker with a problem with Tamiya Clear that I want to avoid in the future: I sprayed an AMT Challenger body two weeks ago with Tamiya Mica Blue. Beautiful color. Over the long weekend I shot it with Tamiya clear. Well, today (about 3 days later) I noticed that a few places the blue had lifted and run, exposing the white primer underneath. It was sprayed outside and left to dry in a warmish garage. Two or three mist coats and a wet coat. Has anyone experienced this or know how to avoid it? Thanks guys. -Dean
  9. E-mail sent. I think I was using an incorrect address. I can't wait to try some of the products! Thanks, Dean
  10. Hi, I'd love to get some of the stuff on his site. Tried e-mailing him using the addy there but no response. Snail mail only? Any ideas? Thanks, -Dean
  11. Hey, thanks for the replies! I knew this would be the right place to ask! I also got one when it first came out and then left it on the shelf when the error came to light. Now I see them at shows, but keep passing because I'm not sure if they're correct. See them with "New" stickers sometimes, but I think those are early ones as well. I mean to do one like my dad had, so I'd like it to be accurate. The AAR is a a shame, two attempts and two strikes. Wonderful lines on that car, you want them to be right. Thanks again, Dean Fowler
  12. Hi, I lurk here a lot and find the gang here to be extremely informed. Can you guys refresh my memory about the issue with the Lindberg '61 Impala windshield? I know they actually went back and corrected it, but I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for. -Dean Fowler
  13. I believe that's the engine from the Tom Daniel Horn Toad kit, maybe the Rattler, but the color definitely matches the Horn Toad.
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