my66s55 Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Fresh off my DLP printer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemodeler Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Looks sharp, already painted orange! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share Posted December 26, 2014 This is the stl filed I used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share Posted December 26, 2014 No. It's the color of the resin. The resin is uv light cured. This is not done on a filliment printer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTalmage Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Thats freaking sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeatMan Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 I think we are on the threshold of a new era in modelling. As the cost of the media goes down we will see more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 So, what's your candid opinion of the result? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennyg Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Wow. This is where modelling is surely going. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share Posted December 26, 2014 So, what's your candid opinion of the result? The pictures don't do the print justice. The detail is incredible. This is the same type printer as a B9 Creator. Jewelers are using the B9 to make jewelry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my80malibu Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Your correct about the pictures not doing justice. Could you dust it with a little aluminum paint to help bring out the detail some. From the small amount that I can focus on, it does look Good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lownslow Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 The pictures don't do the print justice. The detail is incredible. This is the same type printer as a B9 Creator. Jewelers are using the B9 to make jewelry. Got any info on this machine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Gorgeous. The shot with the scale in the background looks every bit as crisp (at least!) as injection-molded styrene. What is the cycle time to print a part this size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 that looks pretty incredible. bychance is that the printer in your avatar for this board? jb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FullPowerGarage Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Wauw!! that's cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Very nice. What was the brand and model number of this printer? I would be interested in looking at the resolution. I know makerbots are 100 microns... formlabs printers are 25 microns. And this part looks way better than a makerbot printed part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Got any info on this machine? All DLP 3d printers are based on open source development from this blog: http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-high-resolution-3D-DLP-printer-3D-printer/step1/Basic-design-properties/. Mine, which I built, the B9 Creater, etc. The software, Creation Workshop, was developed by Steve Hernandez. Steve started this forum: http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/ last December. You should be able to answer any inquiries by resourcing this info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Gorgeous. The shot with the scale in the background looks every bit as crisp (at least!) as injection-molded styrene. What is the cycle time to print a part this size? Believe me or not Bill, It took 40 minutes for the software to slice 169 layers @ 100 microns and took 39.19 minutes to print it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 (edited) Thanks very much for the infolinks. The very first 3D printer I saw in action was a photolith machine, doing a copy of a newly discovered pre-humam primate skull for study. I assumed the UV-laser curing of the liquid media would make its accessibility to mere mortals way off in the future. Then the filament machines started coming on, and I forgot about the liquid-media alternative, and stupidly assumed it had dead-ended. Wow. This machine you've built just blows many of my wrong-headed assumptions out of the water. You may have changed my life. Thanks again. Edited December 27, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
model-collector Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 That is really great work, this is they type of 3d printer I ambers interested in, it seems much finer detail can be achieved....congrats on the work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 that looks pretty incredible. bychance is that the printer in your avatar for this board? jb There you are William. This print and this post topic was done with you in mind. You kept asking to see a detailed, usable 1/25 engine block and I kept trying to tell you it was out there. Now you can see it for yourself. No, this is a different style printer than the one in my avatar. I finished the one in my avatar a year and a half ago and have done some amazing prints with it, but it could never do a print like this. It is a filament style printer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Very nice. What was the brand and model number of this printer? I would be interested in looking at the resolution. I know makerbots are 100 microns... formlabs printers are 25 microns. And this part looks way better than a makerbot printed part. Chris, I built the printer. I have less than 1k in it. The most expensive purchase was the Acer 6510db dlp projector. It ran $607, but is considered one of,if not, the best. Makerbots are filament layering printers like my diy Prussa I3 in my avatar. Not really something you would not want to consider. Formlabs1 is an sla printer. That is, it uses a laser to cure the same uv resins that the dlp beam does. The B9 creator will go to 25-30 microns. Where it can get confusing is understanding 3d printing and these numbers. I may very well get to a 10 micron layer height, but that isn't really needed unless you like to wait a long time to print something. My engine block was printed at 100 microns layer height. The height is the z axis. x & y are the side to side and front to back axis. A filament printer uses all three. The laser printer uses all three. that is what creates a non smooth surface. It is also very time consuming. A dlp printer projects a beam of uv light that cures an entire layer in 3 to 6 seconds. There is only an x axis that moves. It took 39 minutes to print this engine block. I could easily add 3 to 5 more on the build platform and print 4 to 6 engine blocks in the same 39 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
62rebel Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 that's pretty neat, and thanks for showing us some real results. the cost to get into 3D printing will eventually fall as the technology grows. it will be an adjunct to buying boxed kits for a while, but i don't think it will replace it for a very long time. the resin will always be the deciding factor in commercial success; if it has a good shelf life, meaning it could sit on store shelves for a while as well as stay workable after opening by the customer; if the stuff is inert enough for safe use by average idiots without creating a hazmat issue, and if the created article is dimensionally stable in the long run. even some traditional cast-resin kits suffer warpage and shrinking over extended time, just as traditional styrene kits do. i do see an ability to render, in scale, or as close as possible, accurate working hinge parts for doors as a possibility with this. the resin seems very tough and durable; able to handle the load of holding up a scale door. better representations of folding seats, as well, might be in the bargain, as well as being able to produce modified chassis without having to slice-and-dice styrene. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1930fordpickup Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 The engine looks great. I wonder if you have done a hood yet? Say a 62 Olds f 85. LOL Just wonder how the larger flat surfaces look. So far it is looking better than I thought . This would make buying kits for the drivetrain a thing of the past. The only thing I see is finding someone to print it for you. Just as Curt has questioned above shelf life of the liquid resin is also going to make or break it for most of us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drake69 Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 I love the idea of 3D printing scale parts for model kits, and being able to create whole new kits with the proper CAD drawings of target vehicles (Jeep Cherokees, anyone?). What I want to know is how does the printed engine block "hold up" to modelling work? 1: Does it react to lacquer or enamel paints? 2: Does it even retain paint at all, like primer and such? 3: How well does Alclad metal paints hold to the part? 4: What happens when you apply GLUE to the part? 5: Does it react too quickly, melting the part too fast? 6: Does it have a reaction to super glue? 7: Does it bind to putty at all? 8: How well does it hold up to sanding and polishing? I guess it all depends on whatever plastic compound is used in the process, pretty much like styrene versus resin, but the interesting thing is no one seems to have answered all these questions for me/us, at least to my satisfaction anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
62rebel Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 i would suspect that epoxy or superglue would be the safest way to assemble these parts until there's been a good learning curve established. enamel ought to stick well; the resin doesn't seem "oily" like polyethylene (toy soldier plastic). cutting and carving will be part of that learning curve i mentioned. here's another question: are the parts "weighty"? i have often played with the idea of filling voids in kits with epoxy and bb's to give the model some "heft".... armor and aircraft modelers do it so that the model "sits" correctly... it might be a null and void concept, though, in automobile models. i will certainly follow news of this rapidly developing media closely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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