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50 Olds Gasser


Hollywood Jim

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Hello !!

Here are some progress shots of my 50 Olds Gasser. This is the first gasser I have ever built.

I trying to replicate an old barn find gasser. Maybe something like this:

BlackAuto084__Small_-vi.jpg

Here is where I'm at so far.

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I need to add the transmission linkages.

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I used the front suspension from the 1933 Chrysler kit. It fit so well, I just had to use it. The white parts are scratch built items.

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Here I’m experimenting with some different rust colors.

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Very cool piece Hollywood! The radius job looks spot on. That's one thing that, if not done cleanly, can ruin things. You nailed it. They match the front very well. I'll be watching this.

Thank you all !!

Bryan:

I'm new to this gasser thing. In 1960 when some guy wanted to race his dads old car, he had to cut out the rear wheel wells so that the slicks would fit.

What do you mean radius job looks correct? Matching the front? I don't get it.

I thought the guys would take a hack saw and just start cutting until the slicks fit........ ??????????

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Thank you all !!

Bryan:

I'm new to this gasser thing. In 1960 when some guy wanted to race his dads old car, he had to cut out the rear wheel wells so that the slicks would fit.

What do you mean radius job looks correct? Matching the front? I don't get it.

I thought the guys would take a hack saw and just start cutting until the slicks fit........ ??????????

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.I like the way they are very similar to the shape of the front wheel wells. It makes it look clean and planned. You have a very consistant radius....to me that's a nice look. If they were three sided or something else, it wouldn't look nearly as good. Great job!

Edited by BHarrison
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Hey - you can't do that, Jim! I was planning to build a '50 Olds gas coupe. I'm still going to. My mind was telling me to radius the rear wheel wells and I was thinking/planning on cutting out the front wheel wells. I think a blown big block Chevy or hemi will work. I sure hope I don't steal too many of your ideas. One thing though - mine will be SHINY :) :) :) .

Do you have any idea what the correct drag class such a machine would run?

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Hey - you can't do that, Jim! I was planning to build a '50 Olds gas coupe. I'm still going to. My mind was telling me to radius the rear wheel wells and I was thinking/planning on cutting out the front wheel wells. I think a blown big block Chevy or hemi will work. I sure hope I don't steal too many of your ideas. One thing though - mine will be SHINY :) :) :) .

Do you have any idea what the correct drag class such a machine would run?

Don't worry, I'm sure our gassers will look different from one another. LOL

Here are some gasser rules:

Byron's Gasser Madness!

It's a matter of class!

By Byron Stack

© 2004, 2005, 2010

byron@gassermadness.com

At first, there were no "classes". It was "run what ya brung" in the purest sense. Interestingly enough, by the way, more often than not, it was a motorcycle winning the top eliminator. By 1953, some general classes were introduced. They were pretty loose and included classes like "Pre-War Roadster" and "Post-War Heavy Sedan" among others. As time progressed, the classes became more formalized. That was also the year that the NHRA held it's first drag race at Pomona.

In 1958, a gas class racer was basically a hot street coupe. No engine setback was allowed, all gassers had to have working lights, wipers, starter, generator and all other street equipment. Fans and belts were optional, but radiators were required. The car even had to be currently licensed for the street. Full exhaust systems, including mufflers, were required but could be unhooked for competition, although they had to remain on the car. Those of you who (like me) are old enough will remember "cutouts" that were used back then up into the early to mid 60's.

What all this provided for was a class for guys to run a "hopped-up" street machine. The cars were required to have full "factory-type" upholstery although two buckets could replace the standard bench seat as long as both were fully upholstered. Customs were allowed as long as the car wasn't chopped, channeled or sectioned a total of more than four inches. "Four stock fenders" and a rear bumper were also required.

Full transmissions were required, as were "Quick-change rear-ends, locked differentials or ratchet-type rear-ends (high torque) are permissible with safety hubs." Four-wheel brakes were required as well.

There were only five gas classes, classified according to total car weight divided by total engine displacement cubic inches. Designations were A/G, B/G, C/G, D/G or E/G preceded by car number. Use of a supercharger moved you up one class.

WEIGHT OF CAR / CUBIC INCHES OF ENGINE = POUNDS PER CUBIC INCH

The breakdowns were as follows:

Class A 0 to 8.99 pounds per cubic inch

Class B 9.00 to 10.99 pounds per cubic inch

Class C 11.00 to 12.99 pounds per cubic inch

Class D 13.00 to 13.99 pounds per cubic inch

Class E 14.00 or more pounds per cubic inch

As you can see, this class was designed for what was basically a modified stocker...much like the later Modified Production classes.

By 1960, the rules had changed significantly. By then, engine setback of up to 10% was permitted although most of the street equipment rules were still in force.

1962 was a sort of "sea change" year for the gassers. As Don Montgomery, in his book "Supercharged Gas Coupes & Sedans" states: "The NHRA rule changes for 1962 were evidence that drag racing had finally accepted the gas coupe/sedan competitors to be serious racers." The rules that required full street equipment including mufflers, wipers, horns, generators, emergency brakes, license plates and registration were now gone. Roll-up side windows were no longer required and could be replaced by Plexiglas windows screwed to the window frame. They were now real racecars.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you for your comments.

I got up this morning and I still like the look of my my rust.

However, I think I want to slightly change the rust color of the chassis or the frame (floor board). Like crazyrichard said in his post comment.

I don't think these two parts would rust exactly the same way, in the same exact color.

What do you think ??? Which part should be more rusted ??????

Chassis:

hppp_0906_11_z+chassis_guide+maxg_muscle

Frame:

C572-vi.jpg

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