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1959 Chevy Impala----Just a tease! 4/9/16


MrObsessive

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for the long pause in between posts! Between working 10 hour days, and other things going on in life------there's just not enough hours in the day to work on the model, let alone make and compose a post that's coherent and not sound like I've lost it. :)

Just the same, I was able to get some work done on the old girl in the last week or so. In fact I did some work on 'er just this morning..........including a video which is uploading as I type this.

I mentioned in a previous post that cutting open the doors made me rather nervous due to that dogleg windshield post just hanging out there with no support. So I figured instead of working on the trunk, why not build up the door jamb on the body so that dogleg is supported and I can breathe a sigh of relief..............for now!

Here's where I got started........I like to make my "corners" first before doing anything else, that way I can sand the radii the way I see fit, and add the lip around the perimeter of the door opening as I go along.

Some pics to demonstrate! :D

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You'll notice also that I did get the side trim dechromed using Easy-Off and attached to the body. It'll be a lot more consistent to BMF this, than to leave it chromed which is a bit unrealistic for 1:1 trim. Actual trim on cars is more of a polished aluminum, than outright chrome.

P8084413.jpg

Once I got the corners from the "triangles" I made, then I added the lip using .010 strip styrene.......

P8124415.jpg

Now I can add my rounded corners per the 1:1. BTW, most cars have some sort of radius at the corners of the door jambs. I've not seen too many cars that have sharp angles at those corners.........one car that comes to mind that does have corners like that are the Studebaker Hawks of the '50's-early '60's. Good photos are nice to have for whatever car you're trying to replicate.

P8124417.jpg

Once those were dry with liquid glue, and then super glue, I can now add my door jamb detail per the 1:1.

Stay tuned for more!

Edited by MrObsessive
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Continuing on with the door jambs.......Here are a couple of reference shots I used to try to get close to the look I was after.........

IMG_3198.jpg

IMG_3209.jpg

I'll admit that I'm not going to add every little crease and curve to the model's door jambs.......but just enough detail to not just have lifeless slabs of plastic to represent such. :)

Here's what I've come up with so far................

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One trick I like to do to give me a representation of how smooth my bodywork is going is to paint the surface with some Tamiya Flat Black. That way I can see if there are any pinholes or whatnot, and it washes right off with Windex.

Everything looks to be in order so far.............now it's just a matter of cleaning up the finer points and then I get to do this again for the other side! :o I also get to do door strikers, and some other little fun things you'll just have to stay tuned for! :)

P8144418.jpg

More to come!

Edited by MrObsessive
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It's time to make the hinge support for the door. This car uses a "gooseneck" type hinge which allow the door to swing towards the outside of the body, as opposed to most cars today using a pivot type hinge which lets the leading edge of the door turn inside the fender.

I'm not sure what size plastic I used here as I like to use a lot of scrap leftover stuff from other projects instead of just throwing things out. As I mentioned in another thread on this board, you want to make sure your support is a straight as possible from the sides as well as from the front. Failing to do so will lead to doors either "hitting the curb" when opened, or swinging up in the air like a butterfly! :)

Here is a pic of the hinge support for the driver's side..............

p8194421.jpg

Once this is completely dry, I'll glue the ends very thoroughly with super glue to lock 'em in tight.

Now I went ahead and formed hinges..............

p8194422.jpg

These are just some strip brass that are of the appropriate size. I don't have a measurement of the particular swing angle that I need.........a lot of what I do is simple "eyeball engineering". I just test fit and do simple trial and error to get the results I need.

Now, it's time to solder a pin to one of the hinges so far............take a look at the following video as I try to demonstrate this. Please forgive the video quality------I'm poor and don't have the latest and greatest video cam for studio like shots. Just a quick vid to give you the basics on soldering something like this.

Enjoy! :)

[media=]

Edited by MrObsessive
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  • 3 weeks later...

Sometimes I wish there were simply more hours in the day! Between working 10 hour days, computer stuff, family issues, etc.........I don't seem to have the time I used to when it comes to building models! Nevertheless, I intend for this one to be as detailed as my '58 Impala convertible from years ago. In fact, a bit more so! ;)

So sit back, this will be one looooong build!

Okay, on with the saga of the opening doors. I was able to finally get the driver's side door hinged and fitted to my liking. I made the second hinge not long after I posted the last time, and got it to nearly match the dimensions of the first one I made.

Here's some proof of the pudding! :)

P8204426.JPG

Of course the posts had to be cut down to suit where they'll be placed in the model...........here's how they'll be anchored on to the support post............

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Just some simple square rod drilled through to allow the hinge to swing. Now here's the hinges mounted on the support post inside the body now............

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And how they should swing straight outward once they're attached. Note how I have the chassis in place as the chassis will bow the body outward slightly. I had to make allowances in the mounting of the support post for this.

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Now the next thing is to mount (tape) the door in place so that you can mark off the hinge "holders" for later epoxying.

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Still need to tighten up those shut lines!...........

I made the hinge holders out of U-Channel styrene (Evergreen) that was narrowed a bit to suit the width of the hinges. Notice the pencil marks on the inside of the doors and where I want the hinge holders to be.............I like to mark off where I'll need to build the door jambs on the door so there's no guesswork.

P8264431.jpg

Stay tuned for more!

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This is how they should swing straight outward once they're attached. Note how I have the chassis in place as the chassis will bow the body outward slightly. I had to make allowances in the mounting of the support post for this.

P8234429.jpg

Now the next thing is to mount (tape) the door in place so that you can mark off the hinge "holders" for later epoxying.

P8264430.jpg

Still need to tighten up those shut lines!...........

I made the hinge holders out of U-Channel styrene (Evergreen) that was narrowed a bit to suit the width of the hinges. Notice the pencil marks on the inside of the doors and where I want the hinge holders to be.............I like to mark off where I'll need to build the door jambs on the door so there's no guesswork.

P8264431.jpg

Now about those shut lines..............some of you may have seen in the other posting where I like to add plastic around the perimeter of a door or trunk------I did the same here.......

P8264432.jpg

Once this was thoroughly dry, I then sanded the contours to shape. This takes time, so I'd work carefully so you don't lose the original contours.

Once the door was shaped to my liking........I like to use to the 3x5 card method in determining how much door gap there should be. If the card slips in and out easily without binding, then the gap should be fine. Too much slop, and you'll have that see-through the body look which will detract from the finished product!

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And here's the door shaped and mostly where I want it appearance wise............some very minor tweaking I'll do around the top corners of the door.

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Here's how the door appears opened just placed on the hinges.............

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The door has a slight drooped appearance, but mind you-----the doors aren't fully epoxied on the hinges as of yet. That won't happen till after she's all painted and polished. ;)

And now on to the other side! :o

Stay tuned!

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I also want to add that I really appreciate the kind words and encouragement! It really means alot. I just realized that this is the first really detailed I've started in quite awhile, and it might take some time to remember how I did certain things. I wish I had a computer and digital camera when building that '58 Chevy! It sure would make things easier today! :D

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You never cease to amaze me, Bill. Fantastic workmanship.

I'm working on a '59 Chevy too. It's a lowrider kit I got in a trade with the bartster. the side chrome is seperate pieces and will be left off. It'll be HOK burgundy kandy with a different color where the chrome would normally be. And, hopefully, some water spots on the hood & trunk. Unlike you, Bill, I filled/sanded all the areas chrome would usually go and rounded off those little grilles above the headlights.

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  • 2 months later...

Fantastic work so far Bill, I will definitely be watching your build. I was really impressed with your 58 and it's working windows. Also thanks for posting your video on soldering, I'm getting ready to take a stab at doing some scratch building involving brass. I've done larger types of soldering (stained glass), what wattage soldering iron do you use? Also what type/mixture of solder. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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WOW, is all I can say Bill. You sure have a lot of patience for sure. I know I don't. I'm just in the beginning stages of detail work. This is looking better each time I see it. Of course, I do like 59 Impalas as you can tell by my avatar. Keep up the good work and eye candy.

Oh, by the way, I did get the 59 roof you sent me on the 60 and I will be working on that soon. :) Dan

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Hi Bill,

I'm the '59 Biscayne fuelie guy. I'm already envious of your build details! The windshield header mod is something I certainly missed. About your hinge design: does your front door edge bind against the fender?, especially with the tight gap lines ? Your hinges "look right" and the front jam openings are impressive too. Looking forward to the finished item !

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Hi Bill,

I'm the '59 Biscayne fuelie guy. I'm already envious of your build details! The windshield header mod is something I certainly missed. About your hinge design: does your front door edge bind against the fender?, especially with the tight gap lines ? Your hinges "look right" and the front jam openings are impressive too. Looking forward to the finished item !

Hi Jon! Thanks for the compliment! No, I haven't had any problem with binding as I'm particularly fussy about that problem when it comes to hinging doors. I try to make sure that arc of the hinge is such that I can mount the door long before painting, and check the "swing" of the hinges in their retainers. I also like to use the 3x5 card method as I mentioned on the other page of this thread. This helps a lot in determining how close your door gaps are going to be after things are painted and polished.

One thing I did do is thin out the leading edge of the door, so that it would clear the trim properly without catching or binding. I also angle filed the trim in front of the door slightly so that it would not get "hit" by the door when it's opening or closing.

Thanks for asking! ;)

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BTW Fellas, I haven't abandoned the '59 as it's been awhile since I've posted any updates here. I've just been a bit lazy in getting any new pics uploaded to either Fotki, or my blog. Work is moving along slowly but surely, and I'd like to get something new for you guys to see later on in the week. I can tell you that I am about done with the major body work as both doors are hinged now, and I did get the trunk reinforcement made and mounted. Now all that's left to be done is to hinge the trunk, and then I can move on to the roll up windows.

Psssst........did he say working windows??

Why yes I believe he did! :lol:

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