clovis Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I've been searching for a new kit for my daughter and I to build. We are very active in 4-H, and I've been looking for her next 4-H fair entry. I have spent countless hours on ebay and the internet searching for a 1/16 or larger kit. I've also bothered you all on this forum a number of times asking about certain kits on ebay. (I appreciate your time and help!!!!) Strong contenders for her 2014 entry were: '55 or 57 Chevy, any body. '57 Chevy Corvette New Foose Camaro Another '64 Mustang Shelby Mustang (Revell's latest big kit) I was surprised to see the Minicraft sell so cheap on ebay recently, and since money isn't growing on trees around here, I snatched up the kit. I still paid a little more than I wanted, but I still got a great deal. That model arrived today...and I am excited. I love the detail in this kit, and I can already see that this is going to be an enjoyable build. No, the kit isn't perfect, but at least it isn't toy like in it's fit and finish, much like the Lindberg Model T that I am currently building. I love the number of parts, the detail of the parts, the instructions, and how the sprues are laid out. The chrome is nice and bright, and it features rubber tires. The only downer to the kit that I see, so far, are the decals. Cheap and dumb, IMO. I need to be focusing on work today...but that kit came, and my mind has been racing about the possibilities with this kit. I am going to wrap it up, and give it to tomorrow her as a late Christmas gift. Thanks for letting me share!!!! Wish us luck!!!! This is going to be an awesome and fun build!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Those Minicraft A's are nice. I have a few of the pickups, a stock roadster, and even a delivery van... all still waiting to be built. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I've built quite a few of those, multiples of almost each version/reissue. I can't say any of them were really a pleasure to build. Good luck, I hope you have a better time with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kennb Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Sounds like a great project.....>I have been looking at them also............... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clovis Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 I've built quite a few of those, multiples of almost each version/reissue. I can't say any of them were really a pleasure to build. Good luck, I hope you have a better time with it. Can you expand on any issues that you might have had? The kit looks great in the box, but I am both curious and nervous as to what we might run into while building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clovis Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 Those Minicraft A's are nice. I have a few of the pickups, a stock roadster, and even a delivery van... all still waiting to be built. Any chance that you'll do multiples of these kits, and do extremely detailed WIP's on each build? There is a dude in Indiana with a 12 year old daughter that could use your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Can you expand on any issues that you might have had? The kit looks great in the box, but I am both curious and nervous as to what we might run into while building. Sure, most of them had an issue on the lower area of the cowl in front of the door, looked like mold wear. Flash in general was significant, and one of the most annoying issues was the seeping of what seemed like silicone mold release from all the parts. Often I could see and feel it on the surface of the parts. Soak them in water with plenty of detergent, use a soft toothbrush, rinse well, let air dry. On mine it would come back in a few days, often after the paint was dry. Also they would start to fall apart as the silicone "released" the cement from the bonds. Overall fit of the sub-assemblies is not bad especially considering the age of the original kit(s), but getting them all to play well together and make all the working features move properly is another story. I did not build the original Entex issues, so I suspect most of the problems are related to an old well used mold, and the practices of the production company(s) that ran them. Also most of them had swirls in the clear parts, your description of the chrome sounds like you got a good one there. Test fit everything. Dry fit as much as you can before cementing the sub-assemblies. You might consider not making the doors work. Getting the hood to work is doable, but you'll need to pay attention to the fit and placement of the cowl and the radiator in relation to the frame and fenders, which might be warped. Also, I found it easier to build the suspension attached to the axles, then cement those assemblies to the frame at the same time to get it to sit closer to level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clovis Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 Thank you for your reply, Scale Master. You have me a bit worried. I'm not the best builder around, and I've often struggled with fitment. The kit, overall, looks pretty good. The clear sprue is brilliant and clear. The chrome is spotless, and I love the sheen and hue. This build will be a rusty beater, and I am already cringing about toning down that beautiful chrome. I've not built a ton of cars in my life, but it is by far, without a doubt, the nicest chrome I've ever seen in a kit. The flashing is very minor, and only present on one single sprue. So far, the only issue that I've seen is on the cab, and it looks like it was bumped as it was ejected from the mold. Definitely not a big deal at all. A bit of filler will fix that in a jiffy. Oh, and one of the wire spoke wheels is missing a wire. I'm sure that I'll run into more problems, and I pray that it goes together well. Working with warped or ill fitting parts is not my strength. Again, thank you so much for your help!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stump Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Good luck with the build mate, I'm sure your daughter and yourself will make a great show of it. I've not had experience with these kits, but just use caution as Mark pointed out and I'm sure things will go smoothly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I have an Entex-branded delivery van, two Minicraft-branded pickups, and a Minicraft stock Model A Roadster. So far I have only gotten as far as building the engines and chassis of one of the pickups and the Roadster. So far, there have been no problems at all. I haven't seen the "oozing plastic" issue that Mark described... that may very well depend on which branding of the kit you have, and when that particular run of kits was manufactured. When I said these are nice kits, keep in mind that I build Pocher kits... I'm used to poor fit, complexity, etc, so the problems Mark described probably don't even register on my radar... I'm just used to having to re-engineer a lot of any given kit. To me it's just par for the course, building what I do. But Mark is right to imply that these are not "beginner" kits. They will take some skill and patience to build, but they aren't necessarily difficult. By their nature, cars of this era are sort of flimsy and spindly, so a model of such a car will necessarily also be somewhat flimsy and fiddly. A lot of the chassis parts are very thin and delicate and require care and patience. Same with the delicate headlight mount, the running lamps, etc. But... if you and your daughter take your time and are careful while building, you will be rewarded with a very nice model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 If you plan to make a beater out of it you will have much more fun and less headaches as you "discover" the kit. And I agree with Harry's assessment as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clovis Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Thank you again for your replies and words of encouragement. My daughter was absolutely thrilled when she opened the model, and shrieked with excitement as she tore the wrapping paper away from the box. I want this to be a fun build, and if her excitement tonight is any indicator, I think it will be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clovis Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 (edited) My daughter's excitement. We had planned on letting her open it after supper...but the suspense was killing her! I am trying to figure out how to resize a pic for posting...bear with me. That isn't the pic I wanted to share, but this is my first attempt at posting a pic on this forum. Edited January 24, 2014 by clovis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midengineaddict Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 If I can give you an advice, keep in mind that the doors on a 1:1 1931 model A don't close perfectly like a 2014 F150. I had worked a lot to make my Minicraft 31 doors fit perfectly before someone told me that. And be sure you choose the best glue for the truck, I had problems with the regular styrene glue. It's a great plastic kit so, enjoy and post pics of your progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clovis Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 If I can give you an advice, keep in mind that the doors on a 1:1 1931 model A don't close perfectly like a 2014 F150. I had worked a lot to make my Minicraft 31 doors fit perfectly before someone told me that. And be sure you choose the best glue for the truck, I had problems with the regular styrene glue. It's a great plastic kit so, enjoy and post pics of your progress. I've got the old school type Testors brand in my box. Do you recall which brand worked for you? Do you have Testors in Canada? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Skip tube glue. Use liquid glue. It's a much cleaner way to build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clovis Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Skip tube glue. Use liquid glue. It's a much cleaner way to build. Are you referring to super glue type adhesives? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 I would recommend super glue, i.e. CA, Crazy Glue, alpha-cyanoacrylate,etc. And some accelerator, i.e. Zip Kicker.For parts that need to be aligned or fiddled with as they dry, liquid cement like Tenax, Micro Weld, Weld On#3 or Tamiya are very useful. Avoid the "good ole Testors" tube glue and those types.FWIW, the blue built up in the photos on the box of the kit you got is one of the many I built. I was told to paint it light blue as a restored vehicle. The "Classic Computer" logos were not my idea, just part of the job... Odds are it will suffer from some of the issues I described. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Are you referring to super glue type adhesives? No. Liquid cement for styrene. Testors makes it, but I like "Bondene" from Plastruct. Liquid cements produces a better bond than "tube glue" and it's a much cleaner way to build. For example, with tube glue you squeeze some glue onto the mating surface of the part, and glue the part in place. You almost always will get glue squeezout at the joint, you have those "strings" of glue, the glue keeps flowing out of the tube, etc. It's a mess. With liquid glue, you place the part, then use the applicator brush to dab a bit on the seam. Capillary action will draw the glue all along the seam. No messy glue squeezeout, and the entire seam is glued solid. For parts that come in halves, like transmissons, for example, I actually clamp the two halves together with a small spring clamp, then "paint" the liquid glue along the joint where the two parts meet. I do use tube glue in certain instances when I need the glue itself to hold a small part in place as the glue dries. For example, a rear-view mirror. In a case like that, a tiny dab on the locator pin, and the thickness of the glue will usually hold a small part in place as the glue dries. But for the vast majority of building, I use liquid cement. The only thing you have to remember is that liquid cement evaporates very fast... so I always close the cap immediately after I use it. I don't want most of the cement evaporating away in an open bottle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Thank you for your reply, Scale Master. You have me a bit worried. I'm not the best builder around, and I've often struggled with fitment. Then pass on this kit. I will echo most of what Mark said. The 1/12 Revell Shelby GT500 will be a much more pleasant large scale building experience for you and your daughter IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clovis Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 I would recommend super glue, i.e. CA, Crazy Glue, alpha-cyanoacrylate,etc. And some accelerator, i.e. Zip Kicker. For parts that need to be aligned or fiddled with as they dry, liquid cement like Tenax, Micro Weld, Weld On#3 or Tamiya are very useful. Avoid the "good ole Testors" tube glue and those types. FWIW, the blue built up in the photos on the box of the kit you got is one of the many I built. I was told to paint it light blue as a restored vehicle. The "Classic Computer" logos were not my idea, just part of the job... Odds are it will suffer from some of the issues I described. Thanks, SM! So you built the very model that graces the front of the box???? I spent a few minutes studying the picture, and wondered who built it. Nice job!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clovis Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 No. Liquid cement for styrene. Testors makes it, but I like "Bondene" from Plastruct. Liquid cements produces a better bond than "tube glue" and it's a much cleaner way to build. For example, with tube glue you squeeze some glue onto the mating surface of the part, and glue the part in place. You almost always will get glue squeezout at the joint, you have those "strings" of glue, the glue keeps flowing out of the tube, etc. It's a mess. The only thing you have to remember is that liquid cement evaporates very fast... so I always close the cap immediately after I use it. I don't want most of the cement evaporating away in an open bottle! Thank you, Harry! Now that I think about it, I had a bottle of the Testors back when I was a kid, pre-college. I used it some, but never really got the hang of using it. I still had it, that is, until someone decided to break into an office I had, and stole my model box, including the X-acto knife set that my dad bought me. That box had almost no monetary value, but I was attached to it, even if 90% of the paint was dried up. Maybe I'll invest in a bottle of it and try it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clovis Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 Then pass on this kit. I will echo most of what Mark said. The 1/12 Revell Shelby GT500 will be a much more pleasant large scale building experience for you and your daughter IMHO. It is almost too late to switch models. My little one was was thrilled to get this kit. She was telling my parents tonight about her new gift, and how excited she was to build a Model A, just like they have at Greenfield Village. Since she has already decided that this one will be a rusty beater, non functioning doors and a little poor fitment might help us in a way. You all already have me a little nervous...I had a disaster built with my nephew a few years ago with a vintage Revell kit. I want fun builds from here on out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaughingIndian Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Another reason to use the liquid and super glue (I use zap) is the setting time is seconds as opposed to overnight -- especially the super glue. Something important to think about with the younger ones and their patience. Don't forget about avoiding contacting the skin. And paint as the last thing before bedtime or on your own. I hope you and your daughter have a blast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Myers Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 (edited) You might reconsider, and look at the Revell 1/12th scale kits. 1957 Chevrolet, 1967 Corvette, 1969 Camaro / Foose Camaro. lots of parts ,easy build, many options. Edited January 25, 2014 by Greg Myers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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